The North East
Lough Foyle to Carlingford Lough
The writing of this section of the guide was greatly assisted by referring to ‘A Sea Kayaker’s Guide to the Causeway Coast’, by Robin G. Ruddock. It is an excellent publication and worth reading if you are visiting the area from Lough Foyle in the W to Torr Head and Cushendun in the E.
County Derry
Lough Foyle
C660-390 Sheet 3/4
Embarkation
The logical embarkation point for the outer regions of Lough Foyle is Magilligan Point, by the Martello Tower. Access is by the B202 past the prison and rifle range. Do not block roads. Park by the hotel. The whole region is a security area, frequently patrolled. Especially beware of the military zone on the beach immediately to the E of the point, Benone Beach, on which it’s better not to land (certainly not while firing is going on).
Further to the E, beyond the military zone, there is public access at about C716-363. There is a concrete slip across the beach. However, the beach surfs and there is a strong tidal drift. This may have relevance for launching. Expect caravans, lifeguards, and beach casting anglers.
Military installations on both sides show the importance of the lough in such terms.
The whole lough is less interesting inwards to the SW. There are large areas of mudflats on the E side. That said, it is a busy, well marked and well lit area. It is excellent for night navigation, sheltered but with strong tides. If paddling up into the city, it is possible to take out at Prehen Boat Club upstream of the Craigavon Bridge on the E bank.
Road access is better on the Donegal side and there are nice secluded beaches. Greencastle at C648-400 lies directly across from Magilligan Point. The Donegal shore gets the more interesting up towards Inishowen Head at C685-438. The sea is much more exposed beyond the head.
Tides
Fierce tides push through the narrows. Rates of 3.5 knots should not be treated lightly. Eddies on the Donegal side are more pronounced and more usable in the latter half of flood and ebb. The ingoing stream is from about HW Belfast +0330 and the outgoing from HW Belfast -0230.
The Spanish Armada
The Trinidad Valancera hit a reef of Inishowen and came ashore East of Lough Foyle. Its crew of 450 mostly got off safely. They were surrounded by the English and eventually surrendered. 36 of them were ransomed, and the rest of the prisoners were put to death.
Downhill
C753-362 Sheet 4
There is public access at the extreme E end of Benone Beach at a point called Downhill Strand. The Downhill Hotel is now closed and awaiting demolition. Parking and toilets are by the hotel and access is by a stream through an archway under the railway. This spot is popular with anglers. The rocky area to the E of the prominent Mussenden Temple at C758-363 is loose basalt, eroded to provide caves and arches. Fulmar and Kittiwake thrive on the sewerage outfall.
There is good access and parking at Castlerock village itself at C766-365, where there is parking and toilets at the beach access point.
County Antrim
River Bann
C783-367 Sheet 4
To the E of Castlerock village is the Bar Mouth, where the River Bann flows into the sea. Turbulent water can be experienced quite a distance offshore. The flood at the mouth is weak by comparison to the ebb. Especially when the river is up, the ebb and the flow of the river combine to produce mighty standing waves. The flow of the river is controlled by floodgates well upstream. Powerful rip currents either side of the mouth are dangerous enough. The mouth artificially narrows the stream and this projects the fresh water out with great force. The fresh water is easily distinguished in the sea water and gives a good guide as to tide direction and strength off the beaches. The river is marked as far up as Coleraine. The area is a noted birding spot in winter.
Portstewart
C815-386 Sheet 4
The area behind Portstewart Strand to the W of the town is part golf course and part National Trust. There is fee-paying access to the NT section, where there are toilets and parking. There is a powerful rip each end of the strand. When the strand is dumping, it is better to launch off a slip at Portnahapple at C813-376, which is usable in most conditions.
The harbour at C815-386 can be difficult to enter or exit in heavy seas, with multi-directional reflected waves. The slip is exposed to surge. There is good parking and this is the access of choice in calm conditions.
There is some interesting rock hopping locally, clapotis almost always and some small caves and a blowhole that performs well in good swell. The tide can run fast around Portstewart Point.
Portstewart to Portrush
C815-386 to C856-407 Sheet 4
The coastline here is basalt and reasonably interesting, low lying at first. Rinagree Point at C833-397 is the halfway point. To its W is Black Rock and just off it lies Lawson’s Rock, which breaks even in a moderate swell. It is possible to shelter in the lee of Black Rock. There is a tiny storm beach accessible from landward just E of Rinagree Point. Boomers may be expected hereabouts. Rock hopping and narrow channels are best enjoyed in calmer conditions and at about HW.
Portrush
C856-407 Sheet 4
Portrush West Bay is easily accessed under the railway line. The slipway in the harbour is awkward in swell, being quite close to the entrance and is quite busy. Consider using Portandoo Harbour at C857-412 instead, though the parking is a little more remote. There is also good parking at the W end of Curran Strand with parking at C863-406.
Ramore Head is interesting exploring in calm conditions. Skerries Sound often kicks up and is best avoided by the inexperienced. The ebb sets up powerful standing waves.
The Skerries Portrush
C875-427 Sheet 4
These rocky islands lie about 2km NE of Portrush. The islands are basalt and the N side is ‘steep to’ and usually has unsettled sea conditions as the tide and swell often work in opposition. They are mostly grassy and low on the S side. Strong tide races set between the islands and associated rocks to their N. The sheltered S side is usually settled, and the best landing on the large skerry is towards the E end where there is almost a gap in the island. The Skerries are privately owned so get permission to land from Mr Metson in Portrush at 028 70857412, especially if intending to camp. There is a small brackish lake on the large skerry. Large numbers of birds nest and some rabbits survive. The best embarkation point is at Portandoo Harbour at C857-412 on the NE part of the headland, which is well sheltered. The rocks S of the harbour are a nature reserve and of interest to the geologist for its ammonite exposures. There are Grey Seal and a small colony of Common Seal.
The Storks at C897-425 are rocks lying 2km ESE of the Skerries, and 1km NNW of Dunluce Castle. They are marked by a tall, unlit red beacon. Fishing is good hereabouts.
Portrush to Portballintrae
C856-407 - C930-424 Sheet 4
White Rocks Beach at C899-411 is accessible from the road and there are good toilet and parking facilities. Calm conditions are necessary as the surf can be quite powerful with large dumping waves in heavy seas. The rips are strong and the tide flows strongly just beyond the break line. The rips are easily read from above on the road.
It is mainly cliffs eastwards to Portballintrae. There are a number of interesting caves in the first section along under prominent Dunluce Castle at C905-415. One such cave is directly under the castle. Exploration of some of the other caves hereabouts requires a torch. There is good rock hopping eastwards to Portballintrae, with at least one good sheltered deep water landing in a channel about the halfway mark. Another cave just W of Binbane Cove is 40 to 50m long. Beware of a choke point halfway in, where the surge can catch the unwary.
In Portballintrae Harbour, there is a public slipway at C926-423. There are toilets and a car park which can become quite congested in summer. Local kayakers prefer the larger car park at C930-424 overlooking Bushfoot Strand to the E of the town. Access to the beach is just W of the car park.
Portballintrae to Dunseverick
C930-424 to C999-447 Sheet 5
The rocks between the harbour and Bushfoot Strand can be fun at HW. On passage however, give them plenty of clearance. Stay at least 200m clear of the E harbour entrance to avoid a boomer called the Blind Rock. Bushfoot is named for the River Bush which flows in here at the SW corner. Upriver 2km is the town of Bushmills, famed globally for its Black Bush whiskey. The beach tends to surf and should be used with caution. After rain, a brown tongue of water enters the sea and what happens to it is a good guide to what the tide is doing just then. The E part of the beach is irregularly rocky and not a good place for small boats. There is a small slip below Runkerry House at C934-435.
The coastline eastwards is the Giant’s Causeway section. It is committing and there are no easy landing places. It is also one of the most beautiful sections of the entire Northern Ireland coastline.
Just SE of the off-lying rock, the Mile Stone at C934-440, is the massive and beautiful Runkerry Cave at C935-439, complete with boulder beach and long dry passage. There are other caves hereabouts, most notably in a small cove 0.5km E of Runkerry called locally Portcoon, with a dry side entrance.
There is a slip in Portnaboe, the last cove before the Causeway proper. Visitors once walked from this point, before the access from above was organised.
The Causeway section itself is 5km around Benbane Head (C965-461). There are many exposures of geological features; dykes, sills and the various layers of volcanic activity are easily seen. The Causeway itself and all the related geology are far better seen from seaward. In strong offshore winds there are vicious down draughts and each of the bays can funnel the wind to strong gusts.
The Spanish Armada
The tragedy of the Girona, wrecked at Lacada Point C952-455, was that it was the most seaworthy of several ships that sailed on 16th October 1588 from Killybegs for Scotland. 1300 were drowned, including members of most of the noblest families in Spain. The wreck was never discovered, its timbers having long been dissipated by the wild local seas before the invention of scuba diving. Many many trinkets and jewellery did survive though in the cracks and crevices off the Point, as well as cannons, cannonballs and other memorabilia.
Formidable tides run off Benbane Head and great seas can build up off it and off Bengore Head 1km E.
Port Moon
Port Moon at C979-451 on the E side of Contham Head C978-4456 is a natural small boat harbour among low rocks at the base of a 60m cliff. A stone cottage with a rusty roof marks the spot to the passerby, as do the salmon net poles around it, when close in. The gut is 100m by 8m and there are rings on either side for shorelines. The port enjoys 1.5m LWS at the outer end. Landing is possible onto a sheltered but rough and stony shore/slip. Camping is nearby on grass, and there is even a stream. It has the remote feel of an island, despite a steep zig-zag path up the cliff to the public Causeway Coast Path.
The coastline eastwards towards Dunseverick Castle falls away, but is bouldery. There is a small, well-sheltered harbour near Dunseverick at C999-447, about 1km E of the castle ruin, with a small maritime museum and good enough parking. Camping is possible here but forbidden, except in emergency. There are some lovely rock pools just W of the harbour, suitable for swimming and diving.
Dunseverick to Ballintoy
C999-447 - D039-456 Sheet 5
The rocky area immediately E of Dunseverick is cliffy with caves hidden from view by raised beaches. White Park Bay to the E is particularly beautiful. Portbraddan is a small harbour at the W end of the beach at D008-444. It boasts the smallest church in Ireland. Access and parking are poor. It is possible to launch off a boulder beach. Very pretty. The salmon fishery, as with all those on the N coast, is closed.
There is a youth hostel set high above the beach itself, behind the official car park. It is a long carry to the beach and not really suitable for kayak launching. The beach gives good surf though. Boulders and a dyke called the Long Causeway obstruct the E end. The rocky islets E of the beach towards Islandoo at D038-457 are NT and give good sport in the right conditions.
Ballintoy - Ballycastle
D039-456 - D121-415 Sheet 5
Inside Islandoo lies the wonderful Ballintoy harbour at D039-456, a splendid embarkation place for this area generally, or for just a lunch stop. The tides are really powerful through the channels, even right outside the harbour mouth. The harbour has a strand for landing, two slips, toilets and even a coffee shop. It gets congested in summer. Take care towing a trailer down to the harbour, as the road is steep and twisty. Good facilities, great views. Lovely.
The tides set so strongly and eddy so fiercely in the main offshore current that it is possible to surf the deep water eddies in Boheeshane Bay eastwards towards Larry Bane Head at D049-452.
Sheep Island
D048-458 Sheet 5
Sheep Island lies ENE of Ballintoy Harbour and was bought by the National Trust in 1967. The rats on the island were exterminated by 1970 and it again became an important nesting site for Puffin and Cormorant. The large numbers of the latter indicate healthy fish stocks in the rivers of the NE coast. The island is flat topped with steep cliffs on all sides, essentially a large sea stack.
There is a strong eddy between the island and Larry Bane Head at D049-452. The power of the eddy gives only a hint of the strength of the tide races in the main current on the N side.
Landing
Landing can be made at two points. On the N of the island is an obvious bay. A boulder beach at the head of the bay gives access to a corrie-shaped area whose southern side is a narrow ridge linking the higher points of the SW and NE sides. The climb from the boulder beach is firstly on easy grassy slopes but then onto steeper rock. An exposed climb leads onto high grassy slopes. The climb should not be underestimated as the rock is loose and the slope steep.
A second landing, with easier access and support holds, is located on the SE corner.
SPA
Cormorant
Carrickarede Island
D062-449 Sheet 5
Carrickarede Island is about 2km E of Ballintoy Harbour and anyone visiting the area will be directed here. It is owned by the National Trust. It can be visited by land across its famous rope bridge, in place from Easter to the end of October to serve salmon fishermen. Great bravery is required. Far easier sometimes to visit by sea. The tide race off the NW corner is powerful, but can often be avoided by going under the rope bridge. The sand bar here is covered on the top two thirds of the tide. The rock strata is interesting, giving good nest sites for Kittiwake, Razorbill and Guillemot. There is a wonderful cave on the outside, visible only from the sea.
Carrickarede to Ballycastle
The cliff scenery now becomes quite majestic. The small wooded area at Port More is very unusual. Buzzards are common hereabouts. Landing may be had by an old winch on the W side of a forest. It is possible to escape here, but it is a long scramble to the nearest road.
Watch for the splendid through-cave in Kinbane Head at D088-438. Tides set strongly at the head, and a very defined line separates the eddy from the flow. This is an excellent teaching area. Landing is possible on the W side of the head. A long steep path leads up the cliff to a car park on the E side.
Nice cliffs join Kinbane Head to Ballycastle, with dramatic caves. The cliff structure hereabouts is liable to rock fall, the slips evident by lack of vegetation. One such is directly above an inviting cave entrance, so do take care.
Ballycastle has a number of options for landing. The large breakwater has a concrete slip. The old pier has a slipway beside it. Car parking abounds, except in summer congestion. There is also a car park at the E end of the beach at D132-416 by Pans Rocks.
Rathlin Island
Chart 2798 covers the general area, as does OSNI Sheet 5. The information in the Pilot and the Sailing Directions is essential on this challenging section of coastline.
Rathlin lies just over 10km N of Ballycastle, where there is a good embarkation place at the pier at D122-415. The island is served by regular ferry, and boasts a stable population. Most of the habitation and services are at Church Bay. Camping with water and toilets is possible amongst old caravans at D148-506, just S of the harbour. There is a hostel in the Old Manor House at the harbour, and some guest houses, the most convenient of which is just beside the large pier at D147-510. More remote camping spots can be had along the shore by Rue Point at D151-473 and along the E coast in the many secluded bays. Camping is convenient at Portawillin at D161-512 where there is a small pier with steps. The rest of the island is generally steep with cliffs towering above boulder beaches and landing is impossible or uninviting except in an emergency.
The island, steeped in history, has a distinct character all its own. Wallace Clark’s book ‘Rathlin - Disputed Island’ gives a lot of information about its history from the earliest settlers to modern times. In earliest times porcellainite, or flint (as in stone age axes) was mined here and exported. The island was successively conquered and reconquered by the Vikings, Scots, Normans and the English. Most famously, it was litigated over between Ireland and Scotland, and found to be Irish because there were no snakes (Saint Patrick is said to have banished all snakes from Ireland in the 5th Century).
Circumnavigation
For the sea canoeist, this is one of the most committing of paddles, which is best done clockwise as the shape of the island sets up eddies to one’s advantage. The E side is the only part where progress could be made against the tide. The island is ‘L’ shaped and at each of the headlands there are major tide races, which are always active except at slack water, though it is generally possible to stay inshore and avoid their full force. The MacDonnell Race at the NE corner is particularly fearsome.
The cliffs on the N side are high and dark and the feeling of exposure is greatest here. There are caves in the NE corner near the E lighthouse, the most famous of which is said to have been used by Robert the Bruce, where he met his spider. The S facing cliffs W of Church Bay are chalk overlaid with basalt, and very picturesque. There are some interesting shapes and stacks as one nears the W end of the island. There is an old pier at D102-509 in Cooraghy Bay, which gives a chance of a rest before tackling the committing part of the paddle.
SPA
Peregrine, Guillemot, Razorbill.
The island, and the NE corner of Ireland generally, is splendidly situated for passage migrants in spring and autumn. Puffin, Buzzard and Eider are amongst the birds abounding in summer.
A large colony of Common Seal may be found in Mill Bay, just S of the main harbour.
Rathlin mice are the biggest in Ireland.
Embarkation and Tides
The most obvious embarkation place is from Ballycastle, and the best time to start the crossing is just before slack water Dover (approx Belfast). There are very informative diagrammatic chartlets showing tidal movements, hour by hour, in the Irish Coast Pilot, Causeway Coast Guide and the Sailing Directions of the Irish Cruising Club, N and E Coasts volume. Alternatively, embark from Dunseverick Harbour at D000-445 or Ballintoy Harbour at D038-456 if wishing to travel to the island on the last few hours of the flood or back on the ebb. Tides reach 6 knots in Rathlin Sound so Ballycastle is more or less impossible except on the slack. 4.5 knots are experienced off Torr Head at D234-407 and 4 knots off Cushendun at D253-327, the flows beginning at HW and LW Belfast. Rathlin is a challenging paddle even for the experienced, and careful planning is required.
Ballycastle - Cushendall
D121-415 - D263-256 Sheet 5
There is a good view of Ballycastle Bay and Fair Head from the car park at the harbour. The strand all along Ballycastle Bay shelves steeply, and any swell produces powerful dumping waves onto the coarse sandy beach. The tides are powerful close inshore, and with rain, the outflow from the river by the harbour gives a good indication of what is happening.
The shore from Pans Rock at D133-417 to Murlough Bay 6km E is unrepentant. Initially there are large boulders after a cable or so. There is but the one landing, at Carrickmore at D164-427, the most secluded campsite in Northern Ireland. Around Fair Head, the tide races, off big boulders without shelter, backed by enormous climbing cliffs. There can be vicious downdraughts from winds from the S. Fierce tide races may be expected, and even the eddies close inshore are vicious.
These cliffs were discovered for climbers by a sea kayaker on passage, Keith Britton. In 1964, Geoff Earnshaw and Calvert Moore put up the first climb - Earnshaw’s Chimney. By 2003, there were 363 routes at Fair Head cliffs, the finest in the land, bar none. This was the first recorded of many such interactions between these symbiotic outdoor pursuits, kayaking and climbing.
Murlough Bay requires landing onto the rocks, but is sheltered, near the bottom of the NT car park. At LW a beach appears E of the cottages. The road here is private.
Eastwards, the shoreline changes to steep and unstable grass slopes, intermingled with loose cliff and scree. There is a small landing E of Torr Head at D234-408. Have a look at the interesting stone shelter in the mouth of the cave. The local fishermen are particularly informative. Have a fair tide hereabouts, or suffer.
The coastline S is much the same, steep grass eroded to provide exposed rock on the shore. The lack of distinct features makes judging progress difficult. There are some pleasant shingle beaches N of Cushendun.
At Cushendun, land at the S end where a lane gives access to a car park, near the outflow of the Glendun River at D251-334. There is a paying campsite up in the village, too far away to be convenient.
The coastline S to Cushendall is similar. There is a car park in Cushendall at the N end of the beach, with easy access at D263-256.
The Maidens
The Maidens or Hulin Rocks are two small lighthouse islands located 9km ENE of Ballygalley. The West Maiden is also known as the Northern Rock, its lighthouse is called the West Tower. The East Maiden is known as the Southern Rock and holds the East Tower. Both were active lighthouses until the West Maiden was abandoned in 1903. The East Tower was modernised, automated and went electric in 1977.
Embarkation
The most convenient is from a large car park with a slipway and access to a small shingle beach at D378-080 between Ballygalley and Ballygalley Head.
Shipping:
The safest route to the island means staying N of Ballygalley Head. The port of Larne just S is busy with very fast cross channel ferries and shipping. Most take a line from Larne to Scotland that passes S of the Maidens, but some do pass N and then inside the Maidens when awaiting berthing space in Larne.
West Maiden
D450-115 Sheet 9
The West Tower Lighthouse and its attendant three storey cut-stone buildings dominate the island. The lighthouse tower can still be climbed internally, as the old stairway steps are still in reasonable condition. Access to the flat unprotected roof is through a narrow opening in the top floor. The view is worth the effort. An interesting iron walkway bridge links the tower to the accommodation block. The keepers’ quarters are now quite ruined and their layout compares interestingly with those on the more modern East Maiden.
Landing
Landing on the West Maiden is more difficult than on the East Maiden. The most suitable area for deep water landing onto rock shelves is located on the W side, N of the old pier under some large rocky outcrops. No beach was found but several cuts may be usable at HW. There is an old pathway that leads NW from the main building to NW corner but no steps or obvious landing was located. The old pier at the SW corner is not suitable for kayak landings.
East Maiden
D457-114 Sheet 9
This is a small but attractive low-lying rocky island dominated by the East Tower Lighthouse and its attendant buildings. Space is at a premium but the lighthouse buildings are well maintained and their layout invites one to explore.
Landing
Landing is at either the NW or SE corner onto steps or onto rock shelves at lower tides. Landing should not be underestimated as tides run strongly around the island and through the sounds and channels that separate the lighthouse islands from a series of outlying skerries. An older disused pier is located at the S end.
Muck Island
D465-025 Sheet 9
A medium sized island, about 1km N/S, located 300m off the mainland near the beautiful little harbour of Portmuck at D460-024. The island is interesting and has a nice mixture of wilderness habitats. Coastal grasses dominate the central part and the island rises steeply from W to E. There is a beach of mixed sand and shingle on its western side and a rocky bar extends shorewards off its southern point. This dries and is a problem for kayakers attempting to pass inside, especially at LW, when it is possible to walk out to the island. The island increases in height on its eastern flank to give quite attractive steep basalt sea cliffs and holds breeding populations of Kittiwake, Razorbill, Black Guillemot and Guillemot. Three small rocky stacks lie off the northern end. The National Trust owns the island and information signs on the mainland do not encourage visitors.
Muck Island is off Island Magee which, despite its name, is not an island. However, it does have some excellent paddling, particularly in the section known locally as ‘The Gobbins’. The best part starts after Heddles Port at D479-991 and continues to Hills Port at D485-972. It boasted a great Victorian walkway, the remains of which are still visible from the sea. Unfortunately it was closed years ago due to disrepair. There are also seven caves in this section.
County Down
Cockle Island
J536-837 Sheet 15
Rumoured to be either privately owned or National Trust property, Cockle is quite extensive at LW but tiny at HW. It shelters the harbour at Groomsport, enabling a couple of dozen moorings in its lee. A remarkable reef, it is submerged by the highest tides, and there is no grass or greenery of any kind. It is always separated from the shore by deep water. Black Headed Gulls and Herring Gulls occupy different sections of it for roosting. There are reports of Terns nesting. Its claim to fame includes a Sooty Tern (called locally “Wideawake Tern” in Ascension Island where they spend the rest of the year) in summer 2005.
Launch from the slipway at Cockle Island Sailing Club on the pier just SE (the pier is not shown on the OS).
Groomsport is an unsatisfactory embarkation point for the Copelands because the tides are never right. The ebb from Belfast Lough pushes E towards the islands while the ebb outside is pushing N away from them. The flood in the Lough pushes away when outside it is pushing towards. A slingshot from Donnaghadee is far preferable, if it can be arranged.
Copeland Islands
Sheet 15
Embarkation
Donaghadee is the logical embarkation point for a day trip to the Copeland Islands. There used to be a ferry which allowed 2 hours wandering about Copeland Island itself. It is not running at present but may again. For kayaks, there is a small car park and slipway just W of the harbour at J588-803.
Copeland Island is the innermost of the group, with Lighthouse Island next and Mew Island on the outside. Donaghadee Sound lies inside Copeland Island. Copeland Sound lies between Copeland Island and Light House Island. Given the strong tides, this is an excellent proficiency training and testing ground. Any trip around the group can be challenging, as the tides do run hard in the sounds. Grey and Common Seals are both found, the former on Copeland itself and the latter favouring the more exposed channels between Mew and Lighthouse.
Tides
There are strong tide races through the sounds. The tide floods SE from Belfast HW +0500 to HW 0100, about an hour ahead of the tide on the rocks by the shore. The streams through Donaghadee Sound achieve 4.5 knots in places, and through Copeland Sound achieve 2.5 knots, so great care is necessary.
Off the islands, the tide turns about an hour later. The infamous Ram Race forms just at the E tip of Mew, and extends for up to 2km SSE on the flood and NNW on the ebb. On the S going flood a huge eddy forms behind Mew. This loops back on itself, along the coast from about Ballyferis Point, 7km S of Donaghadee, and then out E of the islands. The race to the SSE of Mew is at its worst where the two re-join, on the second half of the flood, from about HW Belfast -0215 to +0030 (i.e. about local HW). The NNW race occurs on the last half of the ebb from HW Belfast +0345 to +0615 (i.e. about local LW).
SPA
Arctic Tern, Brent Goose, Ringed & Golden Plover, Turnstone.
Fauna
The islands are internationally important sites for breeding populations of Manx Shearwater and Arctic Tern and nationally important sites for breeding Mediterranean Gull, Common Gull and Eider Duck. The Manx Shearwater colony on Copeland Islands holds more than 1.7% of the world population. The colony is in excess of four thousand pairs. The rabbit populations on the islands play an important role in the breeding success of the Manx Shearwater as the latter mainly nest in the rabbit burrows that honeycomb the islands. Grazing by rabbits maintains a short sward, which is desirable for the fledglings.
Big Copeland has an internationally important Arctic Tern colony, with some
550 pairs. The site now represents the largest colony for this species in Ireland. Mew Island has been an important tern colony in the past and it is hoped that
positive management will encourage terns to become re-established.
The islands are the most important breeding sites in Northern Ireland for
Common Gull with over 250 pairs present.
Big Copeland has recently held Northern Ireland’s first successful breeding
pair of Mediterranean Gull.
The islands are home to a nationally important population of breeding Eider
Duck. In total the three islands account for 14% of the Irish population. Non-
breeding Eider form part of the nationally important population that occurs
along the Outer Ards coast and Belfast Lough areas.
Other breeding colonies of note include Black Guillemot, Water Rail and Stock Dove. The latter species has suffered a dramatic decline in Northern Ireland, but numbers have increased on Copeland with some 100 pairs now breeding.
Breeding waders such as Lapwing and Snipe may be found further inland. Here the taller vegetation, interspersed with open areas, provides an ideal breeding habitat.
Birds of prey favour the islands when the breeding season is over. Hen Harrier, Sparrowhawk, Buzzard, Kestrel, Merlin and Peregrine are all be seen regularly.
Grey Seal and Common Seal can be found off the Copeland Islands in significant numbers. They utilise the off-shore islands and reefs as haul-outs and as pupping and mating sites.
Copeland Island
J590-834 Sheet 15
The very beautiful Copeland Island is the largest island of the group at 2km by 1km. It is also closest to the shore, lying 3km N of Donaghadee. There are seven holiday/summer homes on Copeland, and the island seems deserted all winter. The island never had fuel of nay kind, neither wood nor peat, all having to be imported. Bleak enough in winter, grassy, and bracken covered in parts. It rises to 31m
History
Historically called Aran Island, the gaelic name was lost in early mediaeval times, when the Norse used the island as a trading base. The modern koopman or older kaupmann means “merchant”t, and Kaupmannaeyjar means “Merchants Isle”. Both names were is use side by side until the 17th century when the Norse version won out. Anglicised as Copman, this corrupted in time to the present Copeland. A theory that the islands were named for William Coupeland, a Norman settler, has been debunked by distinguished local historian Peter Carr.
The graveyard 200m from the landing at Chapel Bay is very old, the inscribed headstones dating back to at least 1742, pointing to a once thriving community. Cleggs, Emersons and Wrights are popular names. A 1930s newspaper reporter wrote that the island was neat as a new pin, the hedges cut and shaped, the garden walls whitewashed. Careful of their property the islanders were said to have been neglectful of their perception of their culture. Neither could the aging population explain island placenames, nor did they show interest. The population was mostly evacuated in 1946. The very last to go, Frederick and Aise Clegg, moved to the mainland in 1953. They died in 1964 and 1965 and were the last burials in the island graveyard.
Landing
Sandy beach landings are possible in Chapel Bay at J591-834 on the SW and the even more beautiful Deer Bay on the NE side at J596-838. In fact there are other perfectly adequate landing points, either side of the S tip, and elsewhere. Port Dandy at J585-836 has a beach, and its sheltered water is a popular gin palace anchorage of a sunny summer afternoon. Best altogether keep away from the main settlement areas, as island folk value privacy. Ask on the island for permission to camp.
Flora and Fauna
Grazed mainly by rabbits and sheep, the island is short grassed and pleasant to walk. Two immature Golden Eagle were seen in April 2006, some Pheasant, and a Short Eared Owl.
Lighthouse Island
J597-856 Sheet 15
Lighthouse Island (sometimes referred to as John’s Island) lies 2km N of Copeland Island, is owned by the National Trust, and has a bird observatory on top, used by the NT. Landing is at the SE corner at J597-856 onto sand at LW but stones on higher tides. Originally the lighthouse was here, but a later light was lit on the better placed Mew Island. Apparently, many wrecks were caused by the light on Lighthouse Island being clearly seen but the low lying Mew being totally overlooked. Hence the lighthouse was moved to the more logical position.
Mew Island
J602-861 Sheet 15
Mew Island is owned by the Commissioners of Irish Lights, and has a number of small associated islands on its SW side, all linked and walkable. The lighthouse (built in 1884) is reminiscent of an airport control tower. Apparently, this lighthouse was only automated in 1996, and until then the keepers even maintained a golf course for their entertainment! Landing is possible at the lighthouse jetty tucked into the channel, or into a cut in the NW, both deep-water landings.
Before the lighthouse was built on Mew, a spectacular wreck was that of the ‘Enterprise’ in 1801. Then, in 1833, Alexander Graham Bell used a new fangled invention called a diving apparatus to retrieve its valuable cargo.
A great tragedy was played out here on 31st January 1953 when the ferry ‘Princess Victoria’ got into trouble en route from Stranraer to Belfast in a severe NW gale. Heavy seas stove in the car deck doors, just after leaving the Scottish port. As the ferry slowly listed and began to sink, it drifted. The ‘Princess Victoria’ thought it was drifting down the Scottish coast, so the rescue services were sent to the wrong place. Only when the Copeland lighthouse was sighted was their correct position transmitted. The order was eventually given to abandon ship, and the life rafts were launched. The women and children were all in the first two rafts, both of which capsized. All drowned in sight of the men still on board.
When the rescue services finally came on the scene, the seas were truly mountainous. Great heroism later merited several gallantry awards of the highest level available to non-military personnel. Captain Ferguson (brother of Harry Ferguson, inventor of the modern tractor) and his radio operator David Broadfoot stayed at their posts to the end and went down with the ship. 121 died. There were 44 survivors, all adult males.
The same storm peaked in the North Sea that night. A combination of low pressure, a spring tide surge, and sustained NW winds raised the sea level more than 3m, flooding Holland over its dykes, and 1,600 were drowned.
Bangor to Strangford Lough
Sheet 21 / Sheet 15
The paddling from Donaghadee at J691-802 to Ballyquintin Point at J624-454 at the mouth of Strangford Narrows - a distance of about 40km - is a straightforward but interesting enough piece of coastline. The Ards Peninsula has almost an island feel to it because of its remoteness by road and the ferry service which operates at the southern end at Portaferry.
The coastline from Donaghadee to Ballyhalbert Point at J664-630 is less interesting than further S, being of shingle and sand beaches.
Next comes Portavogie at J663-595, a busy fishing harbour often congested with trawlers. North Rock at J674-561 with its breeding Grey Seals, lies 3km SSE. South Rock at J677-531 lies 2km offshore and 3km N of Kearney Point. The rocky shoreline of Kearney Point at J645-511 is owned by the National Trust and is a good place to go ‘rock pool peering’ for marine invertebrates such as Dog Whelks, Mussels, and Starfish. It is a very enjoyable day trip to catch the ebb tide from Strangford out to the mouth, then N to the Rocks, and back on the flood. The South Rock lightship, fully automated, lies 2km ENE of the South Rocks. There is a spit of land between the North Rocks and Ringboy Point at J650-574 to the WNW. Occasionally the sea can become steep and untidy here, particularly when the swell is against the tide.
Tides
The tidal stream decreases as one travels southwards towards Ballyhalbert from 4.5 knots in Donaghadee Sound to about 2.5 knots off Skullmartin Rock at J649-687. Further S, from Ballyhalbert Point at J664-630 to Ballyquintin Point at J624-454, the tides run along the coast and reach 1.5 knots in springs.
Strangford Lough
Sheet 21
Strangford Lough is one of the largest sea loughs in Britain and Ireland. In ecological terms it is unique and the jewel in Northern Ireland’s coastline. It has a great deal to offer sea canoeists at every level, from sheltered backwaters for introducing novices, to powerful tide races, overfalls and whirlpools for the more experienced at the narrow entrance, called the Narrows. The old name for Strangford was ‘Cuan’ (meaning safe harbour) but the Vikings renamed it Strangford or ‘The Violent Fjord’.
SPA
Arctic, Common and Sandwich Tern, Bar-tailed Godwit, Golden Plover, Knot, Brent Goose, Redshank, Shelduck.
Strangford is the premier autumn arrival site for the Brent Goose. Some remain on for the winter but most disperse to other sites throughout Ireland.
There are 2 species of seal to be found around our coasts. They are the Common (or Harbour) Seal and the Grey Seal. They are quite distinctly different. The Common has a spaniel dog type of head and is considerably smaller than the Grey, which has a flat head with a large obvious nose. There are about 400 Common Seals and 80 Grey Seals in the lough.
The Common Seal give birth in June and it is most entertaining to watch the antics of the pups from the quiet position of a sea kayak. The greys give birth in October and it is a rare and beautiful sight to see the white furry pups of these much larger seals.
Chart 2156 and OS sheet 21 each covers the lough in detail.
Angus Rock
Sheet 21 J610-453
Angus Rock is the first point of note entering the Narrows, near the mouth. It is just a rock, virtually covered at HW, but on it stands a small lighthouse, white with an unusual red top band. At HW, there is just a concrete ramp proud of the water which can take a few kayaks at picnic time. At lower water, quite an extensive area of rock gets exposed. This is an important waystop, a most useful journey breaker on local day trips.
There are overfalls and broken water around Angus Rock, both on the flood and ebb tide. See the tidal stream atlas for details. On spring tides, from the 1st to 3rd hour of the ebb, an interesting grade 2 rapid occurs on the N side of the Angus Rock. This can get up to about a grade 3 with a diagonal stopper during very big equinoctial springs. There is a drop in sea level across the rocks of about 3 feet and it is possible to get good surfing on the stopper wave.
On the last hour of the ebb, an enjoyable set of waves often form, again on the N side of the Angus Rock, where you can join the seals for some surfing. On the flood tide, again just N of the Rock, another small set of overfalls is formed. There is an obvious drop in the sea level followed by small boils and whirlpools.
The Narrows
Sheet 21
Strangford Lough covers 150km2 of sea and contains 1650 million m3 of sea water at high tide. HW at Portaferry is at least 2 hours later than at the mouth of the Narrows. It takes approximately 350 million m3 (or tonnes) of water to fill the lough from LW to HW. All this water can only get into the lough by passing through the Narrows which is 9km long and at its narrowest point, only 600m wide. Hence a vast river of water rushes through at speeds of up to 7.5 knots.
Embarkation Points
Where to put in and out depends entirely on the tidal flow at the time, and the main attraction of the expedition. For the deep water surfing at the mouth, there are a number of choices along the W side from Ballyhornan as far up as Kilclief, to taste. For the Routen Wheel approach so as to go home downstream, and for small groups that means just about anywhere, as the roads each side are favourable.
Tides
At the entrance to the Narrows, the ingoing flood tide begins at HW Belfast -0330. Passage is straightforward and fairly safe on the flood. However, during the ebb, a heavy breaking sea can be encountered. This is particularly dangerous with any form of wind from the S/SE/E creating a swell. Breaking seas of up to 8m have been seen (from a car along the shore!). For the more experienced and confident only, excellent deep-water surf waves are formed at the entrance, where it is advisable to play only on the last hour or two of the ebb.
Routen Wheel
The next point of interest is the Routen Wheel, just SW of Rue Point. The Wheel is on the E side of the channel. It is quite easy to avoid by closely hugging the coast along the E side. A good viewing point is from the wee island called Isle O’Valla at J593-488.
The Wheel is characterised by short-lived but heavy and violent boils, whirlpools and stoppers. It is caused by an underwater ridge of rock only 4.6m below the surface, rising suddenly either side from 18m below, sticking diagonally out from the shallower E side of the main channel into the main flow. The NE/SW ridge that creates the Wheel is situated along a line 200m SW of Rue Point at J597-487 to J599-489. This is no ordinary rapid. A boil forms, then another beside it swivelling the other way, and soon a whirlpool forms on the boundary. Admire it as pretty, but then you are in it, sinking ever lower, pointing upstream, to the side, down again, then the whirlpool stops and away you go again. Paddling back up through the Wheel is an experience too as you try to read the water, the way boils are pushing and so on. A good eddy exists S of Rue Point on the E side, as far as Gowland Rock at J603-485, so that a number of runs of the Wheel can be enjoyed.
The Wheel occurs during both the flood and ebb tide although it tends to be more violent during the ebb. The turbulence lasts for about 400m and any capsises can easily be dealt with beyond the turbulence. Rescues need to be swift as the speed of the current reaches 7.5 knots. It is safer to play during the flood.
Tidal Electricity
A first for Ireland and the biggest by far in Europe, just 1km NNW of the Routen Wheel lies SeaGen at J599-494, the world’s only commercially viable underwater electricity generator. SeaGen is a prototype wind farm for tidal races. With twin huge blades of 16m either side of a central pillar, the propellers catch a massive 400m.sq of passing water. 300m.sq is required for profitability, and most other designs are well short of the mark. The blades about turn every slack water so as not to lose a minutes effort, and they can be raised for easy maintenance. Boats including kayaks may pass by with impunity as the blades are well below the surface, and no seals are as yet known to have suffered any trauma. The pillar supporting the generator is round, which is a bad shape for downstream turbulence and consequent environmental worries, but the whole project including the impact of its water turbulence is being closely monitored, and the whole project will be reviewed after a few years.
There is a rapid beside a beacon to one side, Gowland Rock at J603-485, where a surf wave forms, just like on a river. The area around here is used a lot by seals to haul out on the rocks. Care should be taken not to disturb them from their haul outs as it can cause injury.
One of the greatest dangers on the Narrows is the potential for being run down by the ferry which runs between Strangford and Portaferry. This ferry has to contend with a 6 knot tide and does a remarkably efficient ‘ferry glide’ across the flow. The Captain does not appreciate having to contend with dodging canoeists as well. The ferry departs Strangford on the hour and half hour and departs Portaferry every quarter past and quarter to the hour. The crossing time is about 5 minutes.
‘Exploris’, an excellent aquarium, is situated within a minute’s walk from the main slip at Portaferry and is well worth a visit as it has displays of the marine wildlife of the lough and the Irish Sea.
Another place well worth a visit is the Barn at Castleward, owned by the National Trust, in Castleward Bay at J575-497. Access from the water is best gained during HW as there are extensive mud flats in the bay. The Barn has excellent audio visual displays of the marine wildlife, particularly the bird and mammal life found in the lough. They also have a number of very good videos on the wildlife of the lough. Entry is free.
Audley’s Castle, built in the 16th Century, lies on the W side of the Narrows about 1km N of Strangford and is worth a visit. It is possible to land at the little beach and jetty beside it at J589-501 and climb to the top where there is an excellent view of the Narrows and the towns of Portaferry and Strangford.
Inner Strangford Lough
Sheet 21
Embarkation Points
For such a large area, embarkation points are few enough. There are none at all on the E side with the exception of the main towns in the Narrows. The options include :
· Portaferry J594-507 - the slip N of the marina with reasonably good car parking,
· Strangford J589-497 - the slip at to the S of the ferry terminal with good car parking,
· Killyleagh J528-520 – the slip at the sailing club, in small discreet numbers. If access difficulties, there are other places along the shore, closer to town.
· Ringhaddy J526-585 – limited parking.
Tides
Inside the lough, the tidal strength decreases from 6 knots between the two towns to 4 knots at Ballyhenry Island at J575-520, 2km NW, as the water disperses into the lough. It further reduces to about 1.5 knots at Dunnyneill Islands at J547-539, a further 3km NW.
The E coast of the lough has a lot less of interest to the canoeist than the W due to the lack of islands etc. However, at ‘The Dorn’ at J593-568, there is a reasonable tidal flow from an enclosed bay of up to 2.5 knots, especially on the ebb and a spectacular marine waterfall about an hour to two after high water.
Chapel Island at J562-513 and Jackdaw Island at J557-510 are the first to be reached when paddling W out of the Narrows. In the spring, Jackdaw is an important nesting site for terns and should be avoided. Many of the islands have large colonies of Irish Hares which can often be seen running along the beach.
In the SW corner, Salt Island at J532-500 lies within the Quoile Estuary, and is one of the many islands owned by the National Trust. The Trust have built a bothy on the SE side of Salt which was an absolutely superb facility for the canoeist looking for a bit more comfort than a tent. The Bothy slept 12, had an open fire, gas cooker, running water and a couple of WCs. However, due to stringent new health and safety laws, it cannot be used at present. Camping is permitted on Salt Island.
To the SW of Salt Island lies the Slaney River where St. Patrick landed in 432 A.D. He must have landed here during HW or he would have had to slog through the stinking mud to reach the shore. He went to Salt and was confronted by the local Chieftain who became Patrick’s first convert to Christianity in Ireland.
Heading N from the barrage which protects Downpatrick from tidal flooding, lies Gibbs Island at J509-496 which is one of the few islands within the lough to have trees. There are some mature Scots Pines on Gibbs. Further N, the first major island outside the Quoile estuary is Island Taggart at J533-545. This is one of the largest islands in the lough and used to support two small farms. These belong to the National Trust and are well worth a visit as they show what life on the island was like. Look out for the coffin in the barn! They were also used for the film ‘December Bride’, a story of life in the area in the early 1900s, written by Sam Hanna Bell and there was even a fil starring Ciaran Hinds. Foxes, badgers and otters are all resident on Taggart, meriting an overnight camp and exploration. Camping is permitted.
The W side of the lough is a fascinating maze of submerged drumlin hills forming over 100 islands and rock pladdies. Between Taggart and Mahee Island at J530-636, almost 10km N, lie the ‘basket of eggs’ - dozens of little islands which are excellent for night navigation as they are sheltered and safe. Tides can run at about 1-2 knots during springs in a N/S direction between some of the islands and particularly through Ringhaddy Sound at J537-582.
Pawle Island at J543-571 is a lovely spot for lunch. There is an old house in the SW tip with the remains of a slip built through the rocks on the beach. From the top of the hill behind the house there is a lovely panoramic view of the S half of Strangford.
Islandmore is now inhabited all the year round. The ‘Blue Cabin’ on the W side of Islandmore at J538-584 is owned and lived in by Michael Faulkner (son of the last prime minister of Northern Ireland – Brian Faulkner) and his wife, the artist, Lynn McGreggor. The house was always in the Faulkner family but got sold. Then in the last years of his life, Brian met its then owner when on holidays in the W of Ireland, and bought it back. It became the family holiday home. Michael and Lynn moved there after their business went bust, and they fancied starting over in “the good life”. The house is a former prisoner of war hut from the Isle of Man, that housed German soldiers in the Great War. It was shipped to Northern Ireland in 1921 after all the huts were auctioned off. The Blue Cabin is thought to be the only one still intact, no water, no electricity, “period”. Their remote house and its owners are the subject of books, television programs, and endless internet activity. Nothing is reliably known about their tolerance for visitors, if any.
Between Islandmore and Ringhaddy lies the interesting wreck of the “Alastor” in 10 – 15m maximum depth. She went down in 1946 as a result of an accidental fire on board, but is still good for diving. She was at the time wrongly identified as the “Alisdair” and forgotten. Then in April 2004 QUBSAC adopted her as the subject of an experiment to test the efficiency of a new underwater measuring tape. The results were all over the place, to the extent they had to conclude there was some mistake. The Alastor was eventually correctly identified. Until commandeered in WW2 by the Royal Navy for active service, it had been the pleasure yacht of Sir Thomas Sopwith who designed the Sopwith Camel bi-plane of the Great War and the Hawker Hurricane of WW2 (that actually won the Battle of Briton, and not its iconic cousin the Spitfire – the Hurricane being faster than the Mescherschmitt 109, speed then as now being everything). Later the Alastor belonged to the Shelley family (as in Percy Bysshe, composer of Ozymandias, and Mary Shelley inventor of Frankenstein). Now the wreck belongs to the Faulkeners of Islandmore.
Green Island Rock at J545-602 is a haul out for Common Seal and is very accessible to allow a group of novices to experience canoeing with seals.
To the W and N of Rainey Island at J527-630, there are two channels where the tide runs either side of the island at up to 5 knots in its rush to fill or empty Reagh Bay to the NW. Again, this is an excellent area for introducing novices to moving water. HW in the area is at approximately HW Dover +0220.
Mahee Island has an early Celtic Monastery on the W side, and the island is definitely worth a visit to walk round the monastic ruins. The monks are believed to have occupied the area from the 5th to the 10th Centuries. There is a great view from the top of the monastery hill. Recently there was a discovery of early Celtic fish traps in the N facing cove on the W side J525-637 (where easiest to land), but these are only visible at LW.
The area NW of Mahee Island holds little of interest to the canoeist, unless you’re into mud wrestling in a big way, as large expanses of mudflats cover the area. The NW mudflats do support vast numbers of waders. During the winter, the statistics of birds using the lough demonstrates the international importance of Strangford as a wildlife sanctuary:
Swans 290+
Geese 13,500+ (including 1,300 Pale-bellied Brent Geese, more than 75% of the world population)
Ducks 9,000+
Waders 50,000+
Chapel Island - J555-675. There are ruins of an old church in this island and it is a bird sanctuary. It is accessible at all tides and has a remote feel although close to the E shore. It is owned by the NT and shouldn’t be visited in the breeding season.
The lough has areas renowned for their beauty or scientific importance and legislation protects this valuable and unique area. Access is unrestricted in the lough and conservationists rely heavily on the goodwill of recreational users. The National Trust has produced ‘The Castaways Code’ and map for those using the lough for recreational boating. This should be consulted before paddling in the lough during the nesting season (April-June) and the islands marked ‘Birds Welcome’ should be avoided.
Guns Island
J596-415 Sheet 21
Guns Island lies 2km S of the entrance to Strangford Lough. At extreme LW springs, it is possible to walk or wade across to the island from the beach at Ballyhornan. What looks suspiciously like an active sewage outlet pours into the sea just S of the village.
Most of the time, a reasonably strong tide runs between Guns Island and the mainland – up to 2 knots. Landing is always possible on one side or the other of the sandy spit stretching NW of the island. At LW, or in search of shelter, landings may be had elsewhere in small coves, particularly halfway down the W side.
There is a lovely old stone navigation marker painted white on the SE tip. Beside it lies the remains of an old ruined church. Thick grass covers the island. Very attractive spot.
Fauna
The SE side of Guns Island is a mass of nesting Kittiwake, Guillemot and Cormorant on the cliff ledges and paddlers should keep a reasonable distance offshore to avoid disturbance during the nesting season (April-June). The N side is favoured by a large colony of gulls that nest on the tussock grass just above the shore.
Strangford Lough to Carlingford Lough
Sheet 21/Sheet 29
Killard Point at J613-435, a National Nature Reserve, is well worth a visit, especially in June to see the abundance of butterflies and wild flowers growing on the sand dunes. Among these can be found the beautiful Bee Orchid, Spotted Orchid, Wild Thyme and Yellow Rattle. Butterflies include the Common Blue, Small Heath and Meadow Brown.
The 14km from the entrance of Strangford Lough to St.John’s Point is a lovely paddle along small cliffs and a rocky shore of siltstones and shales believed to be formed during the Silurian period, 435 million years ago. This area is known as the Lecale and shortly after the last ice age would have been a large island with the sea connecting Dundrum inner bay with Strangford Lough.
Banderg Bay at J605-432 followed by Ballyhornan Bay at J594-420, are pleasant sandy beaches with clay cliffs behind, where there are nesting Fulmar. Never disturb these birds at their nest as they have the ability to douse you with an extremely evil smelling mucus from their nostrils which sticks better than any glue known to man! Portnacoo at J589-406, 200m SW of the southern tip of Guns Island, has a 2m wide gap in the rocks which opens out into a cove with a 15m wide pebbly peach, an ideal lunch stop.
At Legnaboe, on the mainland about 600m S of the southern tip of Guns Island, there is a narrow sea cave which appears safe to enter at all states of the tide, provided there is little swell.
Along this piece of coast lie the villages of Ardglass at J563-373 and Killough at J540-363. Although Killough was an important fishing port, the harbour is now derelict, whilst Ardglass has taken over as a principal fishing port, famous for its herrings, pronounced locally as ‘hearns’. A new marina has been built at Ardglass and there is easy access to the sea from both Killough and Ardglass.
SPA
Brent Goose (Killough Harbour)
From St. John’s Point at J526-333 to Newcastle (a distance of 15km as the crow flies or as the canoeist paddles), the scenery is dominated by the beach and sand dune systems of Murlough National Nature Reserve (NNR).
Within the inner bay at Dundrum, there is a causeway and bridge at J402-356. This connects the farms and houses within Murlough NNR to the main Dundrum to Newcastle road. The tide flows through this bridge at up to 6 knots on springs in its rush to fill or empty the southern half of the inner bay. Good eddies are created by the bridge stanchion and this is used almost constantly at HW by local paddlers to teach and practise moving water techniques. HW at the bridge is +0030 HW Dover. The best fun is to be had during springs. This occurs every second weekend when the tide is usable from approx. 1000hrs until 1500hrs, HW being around midday.
During the ebb from Dundrum inner bay, tremendous deep water surfing waves can be formed at the entrance if there is even a little swell from the S or E. However, once the tide has finished ebbing, the only practical course of action is to paddle to Newcastle 5km away as the inner bay will be dry.
For 2km to the S and 3km to the N of the entrance to Dundrum inner bay, care must be taken due to the rifle range at the army camp at Ballykinler. There are 3 yellow marker buoys marked DZ and the paddler should keep to the seaward side of these when the red flag (day) or red lights (night) are visible over the base just N of the entrance to the inner bay. However, tracers have been sighted by local canoeists doing a night paddle from St.John’s Point to Newcastle that would indicate that they could travel more than 2km beyond these buoys. The Coastguard should be contacted before paddling this section of coast.
The tides along this section of coast to St.John’s Point are weak. A trip from St.John’s Point to Newcastle is a very popular paddle on a good moonlit night as you have the lighthouse flashing behind you, the twinkling lights of Newcastle to aim for and the foreboding outline of the Mournes dominating the paddle.
Newcastle is very much the seaside holiday tourist town and is usually thronged between Easter and September, especially at weekends. However, good access to the beach exists from various car parks in the town. Access is also available from the harbour where there is very limited parking. It should be noted that this dries out at low water. Access may still be gained over the wall to the stony beach to the S of the harbour at J382-296.
A sewage outfall pipe lies about 1 cable offshore to the S of the harbour and, although Newcastle’s sewage works are meant to be one of the most sophisticated in the UK, the area surrounding the pipe should be well avoided! During S or E winds, good surfing can be had at the beach and a good break exists at the mouth of the harbour at lower water. During particularly strong winds, i.e. above Force 6, the surf is very broken and you can find yourself 500m offshore still looking for a way out through the soup. Having said that, this must be one of the most picturesque places to surf - ‘Where the Mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea’.
The scenery of the Mourne Mountains dominates the 25km from Newcastle to Cranfield Point at J270-099 on the northern side of the entrance of Carlingford Lough. It is made up of rocky beaches and small cliffs, a relic from the ice age that shaped the panorama of the Mourne scenery more than 10,000 years ago.
From Newcastle to Bloody Bridge at J389-269, the coastline is interesting. The small cliff scenery provides enjoyable rock dodging, particularly at high water, when many of the caves and channels become more accessible. The National Trust owns the section of coast between Bloody Bridge and the mouth of the Crock Horn Stream below Ballagh Bridge, 2km S at J388-249. After that, there is good access to the sea at Glassdrumman Port at J381-222, and a very pleasant little sandy beach from which to launch or enjoy your lunch.
There are a number of small but enjoyable caves in the area, one of which has a blowhole at the top. There are also two bigger caves, one of which involves a 50m squeeze, where hands are needed to get through. This cave is not obvious from the sea but it can be found with careful exploring and it’s worth going through, especially in a plastic boat!. The other large cave has a small rocky beach at the back and if there isn’t much swell, it’s good fun landing and exploring on up the cave. A short trip from Newcastle to Bloody Bridge and back is ideal for introducing novices to spectacular sea canoeing.
The next principal port is Annalong which has a small harbour at J378-197, used mainly by small craft engaged in creeling (laying lobster pots). Further along the coast is a small rock called Selk Island at J359-176, which appropriately enough has a small colony of Common Seal.
Then, passing Lee Stone Point at J334-144, the large granite boulder (another relic of the ice age known as an erratic) is an obvious feature. The fishing port of Kilkeel lies 6km short of Cranfield Point. This is one of Northern Ireland’s busiest fishing ports with up to 70 boats using the harbour at J317-140.
County Louth
Carlingford Lough
Carlingford Lough is the most dramatic sea lough on the E coast of Ireland with the Mourne Mountains to the N and the craggy Carlingford Mountain to the S. It has great variation, from pleasant, sheltered paddling within the lough to big races and overfalls at its mouth.
The S side of the lough is in the Republic of Ireland while the N side is in Northern Ireland. Up until the 1950’s, a lucrative smuggling trade reputedly ran between Greencastle and Carlingford harbours.
The tidal streams within the lough are weak and a pleasant and undemanding crossing can be made from Killowen or Rostrevor Quays to Carlingford village. However, during strong WNW winds, squalls funnel down from the hills around Rostrevor and cause little cyclones and mini tornadoes on the sea. These are known locally as ‘Kettles’ as the water appears to boil and steam off the surface.
The Newry Canal can be accessed on the S side of the lough beyond Warrenpoint at J108-207. This is really only practicable during HW as the area surrounding the access to the canal dries to extensive mudflats. There are reports that the canal is going to be reopened. The canal goes to Lough Neagh but a passage, even by canoe, is exceptionally difficult, as it is heavily overgrown and silted.
SPA
Common and Sandwich Tern, Brent Goose
Blockhouse Island
J255-096 Sheet 29
Blockhouse Island (a guano pile in springtime) lies between Sheep Rock and Haulbowline Lighthouse, is bigger than either but is not named on the OS map. This small rocky islet guards the entrance to Carlingford Lough. A military building was erected here in 1602, now entirely ruined, and was known as Carlingford Fort. The island is small and worthwhile mainly as a waypoint on tour, as landing may always be had onto stormbeaches on the W or slabby limestone on the E side.
The lighthouse just to the E at J260-096 is 20m high with a white light flashing three times every ten seconds and an ancillary red light lower down continuously flashing. Landing at the lighthouse is not permitted and anyway can only be achieved in calm conditions. The main channel into the lough passes to the N of the island, where one must avoid commercial shipping. Navigation in the lough is very buoyage orientated so consider using Chart 2800.
Embark on the southern side of the lough from Greenore or from the pretty Carlingford Harbour. The best launching in Greenore is from behind the pier at J225-107, and in Carlingford launch just outside the E pier at J194-118, as the silted harbour exposes black mud at the bottom of the tide.
On Northern Ireland side, launch from Greencastle Point at J242-117, or a small car park and beach at J263-107, between Soldiers Point and Cranfield Point.
Tides
Tides run strongly in the lough entrance near the island, where the ebb and flow start with -local HW and LW, which are much the same as Dublin. Onshore winds on the ebb throw up a fearsome sea state. The tide runs at 3.5 knots in springs in the dredged approach channels. The flow follows the main channels except for an eddy on the flood on the E side of Blockhouse Island.
Good overfalls and races occur during both the flood and the ebb around the Haulbowline Lighthouse. The most pleasant and relatively safe playing in these overfalls is on the flood tide. The area is regularly used by local clubs and centres for rough water training.
The East Coast
Greenore Point to Wexford Harbour
County Dublin
Islands off Skerries
A group of three low-lying islands lie just off the coast at Skerries, with ‘The Rock’ further off. Taken together they form an interesting day trip with good wildlife interest. They are listed as areas of Scientific Interest by Duchás with SPA status. Camping is possible, but no water is available. The presence of a healthy population of rats on the inner islands may discourage an overnight. Rugged Rockabill further out is a lighthouse island rock.
SPA
Short-eared Owl (up to 7 in winter), Golden Plover, and Common, Sandwich and Roseate Tern.
Embarkation
The most convenient embarkation place is at the slipway beside the RNLI building at the pier in Skerries, where parking is generally convenient at O255-612. Do not, under any circumstances, block the access to or interfere with the operation of the lifeboat station, or of the working pier. The main catch at Skerries is prawn and shrimp. Accordingly, the local fishermen are benignly disposed to seals, which do not catch either. Seals are plentiful hereabouts. Launching may also be had less conveniently from the E facing South Strand, but only at HW to avoid a long carry.
Tides
Local HW/LW is the same as for Dublin.
Inshore amongst the inner islands, the flow starts at HW Dublin -0100. Tides flow strongly in the sounds.
Between the inner islands and Rockabill, the ebb starts an hour later, at Dublin HW. The flood runs N from -0615 to HW Dublin, and reaches 1.5 knots in springs.
Colt Island
O267-611 Sheet 43
A small, low-lying island lying just off the point at Skerries. Land easily on sand/shingle on SW side. The E side has reefs and breakers that should be avoided in strong NE - SE winds in spring ebb tides.
Saint Patrick’s Island
O276-613 Sheet 43
A small island, outside Colt, known locally as Church Island. The accuracy as to whether St. Patrick ever landed here is a source of some debate. This is the jumping off point for Rockabill. Land easily at a sheltered storm beach, just W of the S tip, in almost any conditions. Landing is also possible at higher tides at a shingle cove just further E. There is a further landing place on the N facing shore near a ruined house and marked by two metal poles - a small beachlet among the rocks, for when southerlies prevail.
There is the ruin of an Early Christian Church and a small monastery, which dates back to Viking times. It was important enough to merit a synod being held in 1148 in which fifteen bishops, two hundred priests, and several other clergy assisted. The church towards the eastern tip is still very much worth the visit.
St Patrick’s Island has an internationally important breeding population of Cormorants (2001 Census) of 550 pairs. There are breeding gulls, Shags and Fulmars in summer, while geese, ducks and waders provide winter interest. There is a colony of 70-80 Grey Seals, especially during winter.
The NE and eastern sides of the island catch the full ebb tide over a rocky underwater reef. Overfalls can develop, especially in S to SE winds against a spring ebb tide. In the sound between St. Patrick’s and Colt Islands, a lesser overfall can develop over a small bar that extends westwards off the corner of St. Patrick’s.
Shenick Island
O267-598 Sheet 43
Shenick is the most southerly of the inshore group and is dominated by a Martello Tower at its northern end. This is a Birdwatch Ireland reserve since May 1987. Kayakers landing should be sensitive to the effects of disturbance in the breeding season (April / June). Ask Birdwatch Ireland at (01) 2819878 if in doubt. Land easily at the NW side onto a beach under the Martello Tower. This beach is on the N side of a spit reaching out westwards towards the mainland, and is usually sheltered. The island has both a geological and natural history interest. There are breeding Fulmar, gulls, Oystercatcher and Shelduck, while in winter the numbers of Brent Goose, Curlew, Purple Sandpiper, Ringed Plover and Short-eared Owl make the island a nationally important site.
The passage between Shenick Island and the mainland virtually dries out at LW.
Rockabill
O323-626 Sheet 43
Rockabill is the larger of two granite rocky islets, strictly called Lighthouse Island. The smaller islet is the Bill and they are connected at low spring tides. They have a total area of 0.9ha above the high water mark. The lighthouse was first constructed in 1860, and was rebuilt in 1900. It was automated in April 1989. The island was designated as a Special Protection Area in 1988 and as a Statutory Refuge for Fauna under the Wildlife Act 1976. The Roseate Tern Conservation Project began in May 1989 and prevents landing in spring and early summer. Ask Birdwatch Ireland at (01) 2819878 if in doubt. Resident wardens enforce the restrictions.
The Roseate Tern is an endangered species so do respect the rules. Ireland takes seriously its duty to Roseate Tern and Brent Goose, its two biggest contributions to international conservation. This conservation programme is one of the huge successes for Birdwatch Ireland. 90% of Ireland’s Roseates breed here, which represents 35% of Europe’s population, so it really is off limits in season.
Landing
Landing on Lighthouse Island is in the sound between the two islands onto a small pier with steps or onto rocks to the side, depending on circumstances. There is another pier with steps just further E, but which is usually more exposed. A narrow cut immediately right of this pier opens to give a convenient pool at low to half tide for landings. Beware of all landings at springs when considerable lift can occur.
The Bill
O323-628 Sheet 43
Landing is possible on the Bill at low water in calm conditions onto rock shelves on the western corner. At LW springs, it is possible to clamber across kelp-covered rocks between the two islands. The Bill is quite an enjoyable rock scramble, and holds breeding Arctic Tern, Common Tern and a small Kittiwake colony in season.
Lambay Island
O315-500 Sheet 43
Embarkation
The closest approach is from Donabate Martello Tower at O263-505 but this would only be suitable if travelling out and back on the flood. Rush Harbour at O274-543 is almost as near, and in calm conditions is handiest on the ebbing tide. In NE winds or a strong ebb tide, launch in Loughshinny Harbour at O273-568. Loughshinny is always dependable, sheltered, has good parking, and is the best choice with bigger groups. The best plan for a day trip is a slingshot from Loughshinny, lunching at the island during the LW slack.
Landing
The island is privately owned by the Revelstoke family and no landing should take place. This is particularly true of the W side of the island where the main harbour and housing is situated. If in distress, at least stay below the high water line, and out of sight. The owners value their privacy, the welfare of the nesting wild bird population, and the health of the most unusual domesticated animal population, marsupials included.
There are two satisfactory beaches on the N side, just E of the north-west point, one tucked into the point itself facing E at O310-515, and the other is just further E, below an unsightly rubbish dump, facing N at O312-512.
There are no beaches or landing sites anywhere on the eastern half of the island, but there are three excellent, small, sandy or stony beaches on the S side, in sheltered coves. One is in the middle in Bishops Bay at O315-500, one W of the middle, somewhat out of harm’s way, and one tucked into the south-west corner.
Tides
Tidal races run strongly on all four corners. Local HW is the same as Dublin HW. The stream floods N from HW Dublin +0430 to -0130, and ebbs in reverse. Between Lambay and the mainland, 2 knots can be achieved in springs.
Fauna
The island is a significant wild bird habitat and holds internationally important numbers of breeding Cormorant, Shag, Razorbill and Guillemot. 59,000 breeding pairs of Guillemot were counted in 1995/1999, which makes it the second most important colony in Ireland after Rathlin Island (c.96,000 pairs). It is the most important colony for Herring Gull and Shag in the country. The 675 pairs (1999 census) of Cormorant qualify this as the largest colony in Ireland. In winter, there are up to 1,000 Greylag, and several other species of geese.
SPA
Barnacle Goose, Peregrine
History
Flint tools of such a high quality as were probably ornamental were manufactured here from about 3,000 BC to 500 BC. The Romans never got to the Irish mainland that we know of for certain, but they did get to Lambay, traded with it, and called it Limnios. In 795, the first ever raid by the Vikings on Ireland happened here. Lambay is a Viking word. After the Battle of the Boyne in 1691, a 15th Century castle was used as a concentration camp for the defeated Jacobite troops, and was converted into a mansion around 1900. The castle and houses were designed and built by the renowned Lutyens.
Seabirds eggs have been harvested here on the grand scale in times of crisis. Apparently the birds all feed on municipal dumps across on the mainland and the eggs do no taste fishy at all at all. In WW2 the eggs were collected and exported to England.
Praeger
In 1905/6 Robert Lloyd Praeger, Ireland’s greatest ever naturalist, led a team of 20 professional naturalists to examine Lambay with the intensity of a forensic police search. It was in part a post Darwinian experiment, in testing an offshore island as a focus point for development in the nature of species caused by lengthy estrangement from the mass. They didn’t find any, but they did find 5 species new to science (3 worms, 1 mite and 1 bristletail), 17 species new to the British Isles, and 90 new to Ireland.
Shipwreck
The White Star Line lost the largest merchantman ever built in Britain, its biggest, best, and most modern passenger ship, on its maiden voyage, in a major tragedy with huge loss of life, trying to set a new record for the shortest ever sea passage to the new world for the British and Irish emigrants aboard. Sounds familiar ? Sounds like the Titanic? Wrong.
Long before the Titanic in 1912, it had all happened before.
The ‘Tayleur’ left Liverpool in January 1854. It was about the first ever ironclad clipper, huge at 1979 tons, with masts 45m high, and at least 650 passengers, maybe a lot more. There were five different classifications of passengers, yet there was no mention of vegetables or fruit on any of its menus. Scurvy was just about then becoming understood. Clippers were square-riggers, built for forward speed, not for manoeuvring. It had little in the way of sea trials.
The ship was undermanned. The crew was inexperienced. No one on board had yet worked out how to use a compass aboard a metal craft. “Magnetic deviation” was less understood at the time than magnetic variation. In thick weather, land was sighted ahead. It was misidentified, at terrible cost.
Too late, remedial action failed. The passengers, knowing disaster was at hand, crowded the decks and got in the way of the crew. Worse, communication among the crew became impossible in the bedlam on deck. The ship struck the E point of Lambay. In shallow water, the ship died slowly against the rocks. Escape from the ship at this critical point favoured the able bodied, requiring climbing across a mesh of ropes to the shore. While 200 of the 300 adult men made it, only 3 of the 200 others on board, women and children, survived. Many of the mainly Lascar and Chinese crew saved themselves and disappeared. Bodies littered the shore for weeks after. More than half of all aboard drowned. A lot of the figures are estimates. 100 are buried on Lambay. It is guessed that 345 survived and did eventually make Australia. Three Chinese among the survivors gave the tribunal of enquiry the best accounts of the disaster, in which the captain was praised for his crisis management in all the circumstances.
Sunk Island
O323-398 Sheet 50
A small rocky island located on the SE corner of Lambay Island. The island marks the NE corner of a small attractive bay called Sunk Island Bay. The bay’s cliff edges hold good numbers of breeding seabirds, and the island has 40-50 pairs of Guillemots and Razorbills and c.10 pairs of Shags.
Landing at times of HW is onto a very convenient flat rock platform at SW corner. No water. No camping. Climb to small grass covered top overlooking narrow cut on its W side. This very narrow cut with steep walls on both sides separates the island from Lambay Island. The cut is just about navigable by kayak in good conditions at HW. The passage is atmospheric but is committing as there is no room for paddle strokes so good judgement is necessary.
Dublin North - Camping
For camping kayakers on passage, getting past Dublin is a challenge. On the N side, possibilities are few. Skerries town is perfectly possible and particularly along the beach S of the town, but it is a quite public promenade. The inner islands off Skerries offer an alternative choice, but all harbour rat populations for company, as does Ireland’s Eye further S. There are two possibilities that are well secluded, or at least unobtrusive.
O198-660 - Balbriggan
2km NNW of the town. Known locally as Bell’s Field, this headland area has some good sandy beaches located along its northern side with grassy areas for camping. No water available. The area is of archaeological interest and several burial mounds are present.
O270-545 - Rush - North Beach
Camping and caravan park, tel. 01-8437131. A short carry from HW mark. Land onto a safe sandy beach. Pub grub at 400m walk. Coming from Dublin by car, turn left in Rush along R128 for Skerries, then right after 150m, down to the beach and campsite.
Malahide Arches
O225-469 Sheet 50
Most of Malahide Estuary is separated from the open sea by a man-made embankment, over which runs the tide in and out, over which on 13 arches runs the Dublin to Belfast railway line. Under the arches, the waters fill the inner bay with great force on the higher spring tides.
Malahide is the longest tidal railway viaduct in Ireland at 180m long. Built in 1844 in timber, that didn’t work. Re-built in 1860 in stone with a wrought iron superstructure, it needed to be strengthened in 1932, for diesel locomotives. The stone sub-works were always under pressure and despite repointing, the lot was replaced with pre-stressed concret in 1966-1968. Then in 1998 the timber sleepers in use for 150 years on railway lines all over Ireland were replaced with concrete (shaping garden designs countrywide) and the lines became continuously welded, for smoother transportation.
A single pier, slightly on the S side of the middle, collapsed in August 2009, so that two spans then collapsed. This was minutes after the passing of the inter-city express. Minutes later, thankfully in daylight, the next train driver saw what needed to be seen, and no lives were lost. It happened at a big 4.5m spring tide, just before LW.
The average Dublin spring tide is 4.1m. The Malahide Sea Scouts have known for generations that good conditions exist for surfing on an incoming tide from HW 4.0m upwards, and may exist in some conditions at even lower levels, and even in an outgoing tide. This information hit the general canoeing community in the early 1990s and the spot became very popular. It was local scouts that spotted the impending 2009 disaster, but no-one listened.
A Dublin HW of more than 4.2m gives seriously good surfing, in plastics, GP boats or sea kayaks. Spring tides occur every fortnight, but the heights of these vary enormously, and are generally highest around the summer and winter solstices. In the Dublin area, spring tides always occur when the tide reaches HW at about noon or midnight.
For the higher spring tides, playtime starts at Dublin HW -0200, and the best of the fun finishes at about Dublin HW or a little after. On lower spring tides, playtime begins a bit later at around Dublin HW -0130. In midsummer, it may well be possible to have a suitable daylight tide late in the evening, but for 95% of the year, all play will take place in the relatively early morning, what some may regard as the ‘Crack of Noon’. Appropriate starting times vary, mostly between 0830 and 1130.
In bigger spring tides, it is best to arrive before the water begins to pour, as that is when the waves and stoppers are most friendly. As time progresses, the water force becomes much stronger. Although the surfing becomes more dramatic, the wave acquisition needs that bit more energy, the eddies become less pronounced, and the penalty for error the more tiring as the length and power of the run-off increases.
On smaller spring tides, the run through begins as above, at Dublin HW -0200, but lacks power for half an hour or more. It achieves its best in the last hour before Dublin HW, and goes on a bit longer. Also, the eddies are not washed out as much, and though the surf waves are much less powerful, they are magic.
There are twelve arches. The strongest flow, and where eddies are hardest to acquire, is in the middle. A wreck was jammed against the outside of the embankment until Christmas 1996. Its absence is still much regretted. It used to greatly lessen the flow to the three arches it immediately blocked, and send great forces of water to the arches on either side, creating huge variety in playing characteristics. Now the variation is somewhat less. However, there is still great variation, both from arch to arch, and from minute to minute as the tide builds, and the inner bay deepens.
The Arches also seem to be entirely hazard free, suitable for any group competent and willing to perform frequent X-rescues. Intermediate to Advanced standard or Proficiency Level 3/4 upwards is advised. Downstream of the actual stoppers and playwaves, the turbulent run-off stretches out 150m. In places, it is reminiscent of easier mega-volume Alpine rivers, with confused man-eating boils and eddy lines.
It is best to park inside or W of the railway line, on the Malahide side of the estuary. The road from the village runs along the inner bay, and parking is in lay-bys at O223-463. Starting on the seaward side would involve a carry across the railway line when finished, as playtime ends long before the flow under the arches starts -going out.
Approaching Malahide from Dublin, turn left at the crossroads in the very centre of the village. Then turn left again immediately and go under a railway bridge where you will find the parking places on the right.
SPA
Bar-tailed Godwit, Golden Plover, Little Egret, Ruff, Kingfisher.
Ireland’s Eye
O284-414 Sheet 50
Ireland’s Eye is an interesting, small, uninhabited island off Howth Harbour. Circumnavigation is recommended as the cliff scenery is excellent. The island is most attractive and most popular in early summer. There is a regular ferry in season, from Howth East Pier.
The island is noted for its rock climbing on the tor at the NE corner, on the sea stack just off it, and also on the big cliff centred on the N side. Do please though exercise caution as regards bird life, and climb later in the season.
The church dates back to 700, and is called Cill MacNessan. A manuscript similar to the more famous Book of Kells was penned here by three monks, and it is also preserved in Trinity College Dublin.
SPA
Peregrine. The island is a breeding ground for various auks, Fulmar, Kittiwake, Shag, Cormorant, gulls, and others. In particular, a Gannet colony started to breed here in 1989, and is now the only significant such colony between the Saltees to the S and Ailsa Craig in Scotland.
Embarkation and Landing
There is convenient access at a public slipway beside the Lifeboat Station at O285-394 in Howth Harbour. Landings can be had at various points, the best of which is at the sandy beach just SE of the Martello Tower. No water. The lusher parts of the island are rat infested, making camping unattractive.
The Round of Howth Head
The round of Howth Head is a popular trip for Dublin sea paddlers. Ireland’s Eye is also attractive to take in as part of the excursion. Attractive for its scenery, and its handy shuttle, the only downside to this trip is a sewerage outlet operating just off the Nose of Howth at O301389 on the NE corner of the Head. However, the situation is much improved in 2003 as most of the sewage now goes to the modern treatment works in Ringsend.
The put-in point to the N is at the public slipway at the RNLI station in Howth Harbour. There is plentiful parking. To the S of the Head, the launching point is the sandy beach at Sutton Sailing Club at O265-377, just NW of the Martello Tower. The Club is welcoming to small competent and considerate parties. Parking is limited so it is not suitable for large groups. Also, at LW, the tide goes a long way out. A shingle beach at O296-373, 1km N of the Bailey Lighthouse O297-363 offers a welcome break, and there is even a track upwards to the commonage above. Stopping is also possible in several places on the S side.
The round of Howth is usually done -anti clockwise, on a rising tide, best in calm or gentle southerlies. An ‘out and back’ trip from Howth Harbour is also quite feasible and avoids the shuttle.
SPA
Fulmar, Cormorant, Shag, Herring Gull, Kittiwake, Guillemot, Razorbill, Black Guillemot.
Tides
The main E coast streams run N and S off the Bailey and the Nose, and on both sides of Ireland’s Eye, where 2 knots can be achieved. There can be very bumpy water anywhere on the seaward side, especially with wind over tide. In particular the Bailey, where the tidal stream coming out of Dublin Bay meets the main stream, can be quite nasty. The Nose at the NE side of the head is often very bumpy, easing as one approaches Howth Harbour. The N/NE flood runs from Dublin HW +0430 to -0130, and the ebb the reverse.
The main E coast flood enters Dublin Bay on its S side heading NE, and circles around the inner bay to exit eastwards along the S side of Howth Head. To complicate matters, the main ebb, except when flowing at its strongest, in the middle three hours, eddies around the N part of the bay. Therefore, an outgoing stream runs E along the S shore of the Head for nine hours out of the twelve, from Dublin HW +0300 to Dublin HW. The ingoing W stream flows for only the other three, from Dublin HW to Dublin HW +0300.
In the first hour or two of the flood, from Dublin HW -0600 to -0400, paddlers often find that the stream exiting Dublin Bay E is stronger than the main coastal flood N. Thus the stream at the Bailey is E, and sets up a huge circular eddy, for about 2km to the N.
Dublin Bay
Outside part
All up along the S part of the E coast of Ireland lies an offshore bank, on average less than 15km off, called by different names as it progresses N. Off Arklow it is called the Arklow Bank, off Greystones the Codling Bank, off Bray the Bray Bank, off Dublin South the Kish Bank, and then off Dublin North the Bennet Bank. Tides flow differently inside and outside this offshore feature.
From the Dublin perspective, inside the Kish Bank off Dublin South lies the smaller Burford Bank, a shallow area across almost the whole of the entrance to the bay. Then, further E and dominating the outside of the bay, a major lighthouse lies at the N end of the outer Kish bank (known locally and simply as “the Kish”), and prominent lights flash at the N and S ends of the Burford.
Outside the Kish the waters are deep, say 25m., at the Kish they are, say 15m., then inside the Kish they are relatively shallow, say 25m. Waters are then deep to the W (with the exception of the Burford Bank outside the bay itself, which goes down to 5m.), to a line between Howth Head and Dalkey, when the bay gets shallow and stays shallow.
The Kish
O390-311 No Sheet (50)
The Kish is located 12km E of Bullock Harbour. The Kish sits on a man-made base. The height of the tower is 29 metres. Kish flashes twice every 30 seconds, as does its horn, its range is 28nm. Kish has a 10 metre helicopter landing platform. There are strong currents off the Beaufort Bank and the Kish.
Tides:
Tidal flow changes direction Dublin -0130.
Planning:
One should depart in order to reach the Kish at slack water. There are two ladders, one on the E side and one on the W side. These are easily climbed at slack water. If the lighthouse keeper is there, normally when maintenance is being carried out, he will more than likely come out to greet you. If work permits, he will give you a tour of the light house.
In fog keep an eye out for the South Burford mark.
Ferries and fishing vessels pose a danger, so know the times of the ferries before departing. Remember that the ferry must go north of the Kish bank and south of the Burford bank
Special interest: Storm petrels and porpoises.
History
A light ship was first used in 1811. In foggy weather a gong was sounded but when the Holyhead Packet ship was expected an 18 pounder gun was fired. In 1954 the first of the all electric light vessels - Gannet - was placed on the station. In November 1965 the Kish Light-vessel was withdrawn and replaced by the Kish lighthouse.
Round Trip for a kayak - 3.5 to 4 hours
Inner part
The inner part of the bay, with its city and industrial surrounds, holds little interest for sea kayakers, and is dealt with briefly. All the practical embarkation points are considered. The outer parts of the inner part of the bay, from Dun Laoghaire to Dalkey Island on the S side, and from Sutton to Howth on the N side, are justifiably popular.
Tidal Overview
The tide floods N and ebbs S off the entrance to the bay, flooding from Dublin HW 0600 to HW, reaching 3.25 knots each way in springs. Inside the bay, the situation is more complex. Tides in the middle of the bay are stationary. The streams circulate around the edges. The effect of this is to constantly renew the waters of the bay which dissipates the worst polluting effects of the nearby population. Timings and strengths are very different on the two sides of the bay.
The flood enters the Bay through Muglins and Dalkey Sounds, past Dun Laoghaire Harbour, around the bay and out past the Bailey. The ebb flows past the Bailey towards Dun Laoghaire Harbour and out SE along the shore to Dalkey Island, and it also eddies around the N part of the bay.
Tides in the north
In the northern part of Dublin Bay, the E/NE outgoing stream runs for 9.5 hours from Dublin HW +0300 to the following HW, and the ingoing SW stream flows for only 3 hours from Dublin HW to +0300.
Tides in Dublin Harbour
The streams inside the harbour, under ordinary conditions, go with the rising and falling tide. Beware however heavy rainfall causing the river to flood. The overlying fresh water conditions favour short weak floods and long strong ebbs, and the outgoing stream can thus be very strong at the mouth, reaching 3.5 knots. This is typical of heavily freshwater-fed enclosed places.
Tides in the south
In the southern part of Dublin Bay, the NW flood runs from Dublin HW +0555 to 0030, and ebbs in reverse. In Dalkey Sound, this whole cycle begins and ends an hour earlier in neaps or an hour and a half earlier in springs.
Coastline
North Bull Island forms the entire inner, northern side of the Bay, involving a substantial LW carry. Landing, but without road access, is occasionally possible along the S shore of Howth Head.
Landing is possible all the way from the mouth of the Liffey to Sandycove, except for regulated areas inside the busy ferry port of Dun Laoghaire Harbour where some parts must be totally avoided. In particular, keep well away from the SE of the harbour. The closer to Dublin though, the less conducive it becomes to land. From Dun Laoghaire Harbour inwards, the shore is mostly sandy beach, with the tide receding long distances at LW. In addition, the railway runs all the way along here making road access only occasionally available.
From Sandycove at O257-281 to Sorrento Point at the S end of Dalkey Sound at O273-261, the ground is almost entirely small granite cliffs fronting impressive private property. Pretty, but landing is practical only at the three public harbours, Sandycove, Bullock and Coliemore.
Dublin Bay Embarkation Points
Sutton Sailing Club
O265-377 Sheet 50
This is an embarkation point for the round of Howth Head. Even here at LW, there is something of a carry, and the parking is very tight. So, if doing a shuttle, leave vehicles at Howth Harbour, irrespective of the direction of the kayak journey. The Club is welcoming, but realistically, the parking is inadequate. The Sailing Club is easily found by car, being well signposted. From Sutton Cross take the road to the Hill of Howth and, after 1km, turn right into Strand Road. Follow the signposts along the shoreline to the club.
Bull Island
O227-374 Sheet 50
N of Dublin Port is the North Bull Island, in the NW corner of the bay. It is connected to the shore by an ancient wooden bridge at O213-359 at its SW end, and a road/causeway at O225-374, midway along the island, built 1962. Much silting of the inner stretch of water has occurred since then, especially close to the causeway, which is now recognised to have been an environmental nightmare, and studies are underway to find a solution. The North Bull Wall which bounds the island on the S also delimits the N side of Dublin Port, and was built in 1825 on the advice of the famous cartographer and harbour builder, Captain Bligh, of Bounty fame.
SPA
Golden Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit, Great Northern Diver, Little Egret, Peregrine, Merlin, Short-eared Owl.
The significance of the Bull for bird watchers is in the huge numbers and the variety of species. It is popular because the birds may be easily watched. Living close to buses, cars, golfers, joggers and even dogs, the birds do not startle easily. In the channels, the rising tide concentrates the birds as it pushes them up the shore, and they can be watched from very close range. The Bull features prominently in the early stages of the education of all Dublin birders. It holds its interest for even the very advanced, because it is always throwing up surprises - rare migrants, and the odd megavagrant.
The Bull has internationally important numbers of Brent Goose, Knot, and many other winter species. Most of the centre of the island is taken up with two golf courses, which are fenced off from the outer rim. Birders are found mostly on the mainland side, and swimmers favour the open beach on the outer side. Hares abound on the golf courses and are tolerated with equanimity by the golfers. There is an Interpretive Centre near the causeway. It probably owes its existence to its timing, as it was built shortly before planning permission became necessary.
Dollymount Strand
O223-353 Sheet 50
Dollymount Strand runs the entire length of the outside of North Bull Island. The embarkation point is at the SW end of the beach. By car, cross the wooden bridge at O213-359 at Clontarf onto the island, and continue past the golf clubhouse into the dunes. There can be a modest carry.
Not a logical embarkation point for anywhere in particular, this putin point is nonetheless popular for the surf. As well as getting small playsurf, in gentle westerlies in particular, this is where surfers embark to surf the wake of the incoming car ferries. If the ferry is late and hasn’t slowed down to enter harbour (a regular occurrence), especially on lower tide levels, the second or third bow wave of the ferry can be large enough to run you all the way to the beach 1km away. Catch it just outside the North Bull Lighthouse. Not for novices.
Poolbeg
O214-336 Sheet 50
Should there be a reason to do so, embarkation is possible, with convenient parking, from the very end of the road leading to the South Pier wall of Dublin Harbour, known as Poolbeg. Launch E of the two red and white towers. It is recommended to launch at HW on the seaward side of the road. The tide recedes a considerable distance here. Circumstances may not allow this, as surf builds up in a sustained SE blow. The harbour side is available at all tide levels, but a sewerage plant discharges at this point and it’s very close to the shipping.
Merrion Gates
O197-311 Sheet 50
One would have to be desperate. Launching and landing is only possible at HW. If so, this is the most convenient spot in terms of parking and launching on the entire S city area. Park and access where the Strand Road meets the Merrion Road and the railway, hence the name, Merrion Gates.
Seapoint
O227-290 Sheet 50
A popular swimming spot and parking is under extreme pressure. Go down a little culdesac called Brighton Vale, off Seapoint Avenue. This spot is convenient for both Seapoint and Salthill Dart stations. From here inwards to Dublin, the LW ‘carry’ becomes increasingly prohibitive. Launch from the beach out of season. Lifeguards will probably ask you to use the eastern slipway during the summer, to protect swimmers.
Salthill
O233-287 Sheet 50
There is a pleasant beach giving access directly to the open water. It is situated just outside the West Pier of Dun Laoghaire Harbour, reachable by road via the harbour. By car, cross the railway bridge closest to the West Pier at O240-290. Turn immediately left, leaving the railway to the left and the water to the right. Follow the twisting road to its end, 200m further along, under a barrier, at a spacious car park.
This sheltered beach never inflicts too long a carry. Windsurfers and beginner boaters of all kinds use it. Swimmers prefer Seapoint, 600m further E. For kayakers, it is favoured as the embarkation point for starting and ending longer journeys, as parking here never comes under pressure and the length of absence is of no matter. Furthermore, it is just outside the Salthill/Monkstown Dart station.
Coal Harbour
O239-290 Sheet 50
Tucked into the SW corner of Dun Laoghaire Harbour are two inner harbours, collectively known as the Coal Harbour. There are public slipways in both, suitable for those windy days when straying outside would not be sensible. By car, cross the railway bridge as described above. The public car park and slipway are immediately obvious, and signposted.
D.M.Y.C.
O236-289 Sheet 50
Alternatively, also inside the Coal Harbour, but avoiding late night hours, the slipway of the Dun Laoghaire Motor Yacht Club is generally available to visiting boat people. The parking is safer, and the club is welcoming. The club is located at the base of the West Pier close by the railway footbridge.
Forty Foot Front Harbour
O257-282 Sheet 50
At Scotsman’s Bay, this W facing little harbour was once much used for the launching of rubber boats by scuba divers, but they ran into trouble with the authorities for their excessive enthusiasm. Now all speed craft are banned from using the slipway there, to the benefit of swimmers and others using the little cove. Kayakers should not attract attention to themselves as the rule may well be applied to all small boats. Be respectful of other water users, don’t do a lot of shouting, and don’t strap a big knife to your ankle.
Otherwise, this is a splendid, sheltered little harbour, mostly sand filled, with no boat carry at any stage of the tide. Parking is feasible except in heat waves or holiday times. The Forty Foot is at hand for a swim afterwards. Divers are barred there too, even on foot. This cove needs sustained N or NW winds before the sea gets lumpy.
Bullock Harbour
O263-278 Sheet 50
Bullock has ample parking and easy launching at all stages of the tide, although it is mucky on lower waters. It is the favoured put-in spot on all Dublin’s S side. Bullock is a crowded harbour, with boat hiring facilities for the mackerel in season. Of interest is Western Marine, a chandlery that is as well appointed as any in Dublin. The sea just S of the harbour is often lumpy, due to tidal movement and cliffs. In a north-easterly, this can be the most challenging part of the outing. Bullock is the best embarkation place for Dalkey Island.
Maiden Rock
O273-269 Sheet 50
An important Roseate Tern colony has been established on the rock, 500m NW of Dalkey Island. Please give a wide berth during the breeding season from April to July.
Coliemore Harbour
O273-265 Sheet 50
Parking is very restricted at this attractive little harbour on the Coliemore Road. Small pedestrian ferries ply to Dalkey Island on day trips. Much coarse bottom fishing goes on from the harbour walls. The harbour is very congested, and in swell, launching from the rather steep notsosheltered slip can be tricky. It is best on the bottom third of the tide when sand is exposed. Water and toilet are available. A pretty place.
Dalkey Island
O277-263 Sheet 50
An interesting small grassy island, it has a Martello Tower, a fort, black rabbits, goats and other furry creatures. No reliable water has been found but a well W of the church, just above the shore, is kept whitewashed. The views of Dublin Bay from both the Martello Tower and the ruined fort are well worth the trouble. Until a generation ago, the King of Dalkey Island was elected locally and crowned on the island, but the practice died out in the 1980s.
History
Vikings named it Dalk Eyja ("Thorn Island") and the Irish name means the same "Deilg Inis". Archaeological excavations have revealed Mesolithic Bann flakes, Neolithic hollow scrapers and Bronze Age arrowheads on the island. In the early medieval period, the island was a base for sea-going traders, importing goods from the Mediterranean and western France.
The medieval church is dedicated to St.Begnet. The lintelled doorway is a feature of the period prior to the 12th Century. The bellcote high on the gable above is likely to have been added later, possibly in the 15th Century. The high side walls might also have been raised about then. The fireplace at the E end was added when the church was used as a residence by soldiers and masons in the early 19th Century.
The Martello Tower and the gun battery were built in response to the threat of invasion from French forces around 1804 and 1805. The tower is exceptionally large. The original entrance is high up and was reached by a ladder. The present entrance (recently closed, unfortunately) is an insertion and leads directly into the magazine. The gun platform on the roof mounted two 24-pounder guns.
The gun battery is built into the granite cliffs on the southern tip of the island. While it is unimposing from the mainland, ships sailing into Dublin Bay would have had three large guns trained on them.
Embarkation
Embark from Bullock Harbour at O263-277, 3km NW, rather than the nearer Coliemore Harbour. Launching and parking is easier.
Landing
Landing is best at a little beach on the landward side of the NW corner, W of the church. There is also a little cove just inside the nearby pier. The beach here is usable except on the bottom third of the tide. A regular ferry runs from Coliemore Harbour opposite to the pier.
Tides
The tide runs strongly inside and outside Dalkey Island. Inside and outside the island, in Dalkey Sound and Muglins Sound, the tide turns at the same time, at Dublin HW and LW -0130. In springs, it turns at Dublin HW and LW -0200, achieving 2.5 knots.
Outside the Muglins the main coastal stream turns at Dublin HW.
One stream of the main flood tide swings around Killiney Bay and divides with one part eddying through Dalkey Sound and Muglins Sound (hence the timing differential). The main part sweeps E out to sea past the southern tip of the island. Overfalls occur where the streams reconnect, just off Sorrento Point at O273-261.
Expect bigger overfalls on the flood tide at the southern tip of the island. These are particularly big with a S or SE swell. Paddlers prefer to circumnavigate anticlockwise, especially on the flood, to avoid being pushed up onto the rocks at this point. If in doubt about the conditions, have a look first from a safe distance at Sorrento Point. Following the coast of the island will ensure you are in the full flow before you see the overfalls. A decision to turn back at this stage will mean paddling against a 2-3kn flow.
The Muglins
O284-268 Sheet 50
Often visited in tandem with Dalkey Island, Muglins is a rock with a light beacon, 500m NE of Dalkey Island. Tides are the same as for the outside of Dalkey Island, i.e. the flow changes with Dublin HW and LW. Landing is forbidden, and the tide flows strongly. Beloved of divers and anglers.
Killiney Bay
O260-246 Sheet 50
Between Dublin and Bray is a green belt which professional planners are determined to keep that way, and we wish their efforts well. Killiney Bay is where this green belt enters the sea. One of the prettiest bays around Dublin, road and place names fancifully reflect supposed Italian counterparts S of Rome. White Rock at O266-257 is 600m past Sorrento Point and has rocky outcrops with popular bathing places. A gravel beach runs the next 6.5km to Bray. The railway runs just inland of the northern part, the station being where the footbridge is visible at O260-242.
2km offshore at this northern end of the bay is the shallow Frazer Bank, which has an enormous effect upon the flood tide. One branch of the tide flows in a curve close along inshore and veers eastwards to meet the main tide flooding northwards in the direction of Dalkey Island and the Muglins. The two streams collide just SE of Dalkey Island. A severe dose of bumpy water is thus set up. The spot is infamous, with wild but somewhat controlled conditions.
County Wicklow
Bray
O276-179 Sheet 56
Bray is a large town and was once a satellite of Dublin from where people came on holidays. Now it is virtually a suburb of the metropolis. As a legacy, a wide promenade runs the entire 1.5km length of the town front, from Bray Harbour at O270-193 in the N to Bray Head at O276-179 in the S. The entire promenade is given over to tourism, amusement arcades in the S with pubs and B&Bs at the other end.
The River Dargle enters the sea through the harbour. It dries out at LW and is not a particularly attractive embarkation point. The bottom of the harbour is very silted. There is a slipway and beach in the harbour, which is usable on the top two-thirds of the tide. There is another slipway on the outside of the N pier. A Martello Tower stands at the base of the S pier.
Bray Head
O286-170 Sheet 56
Bray Head is a mountain with twin peaks. The more northerly, 206m high peak has a prominent cross on top. The larger, 240m peak is to the S. At shore level, there are two roughly equivalent headlands, Bray Head at O286-170 and Cable Rock at O290-156. Cable Rock is a pronounced headland with an off-lying rock. There are large seabird colonies on the head in the breeding season.
Swell develops if there are sustained or strong winds from N, E or S, and gives difficult conditions all along the headland from the promenade in Bray to Cable Rock. The sea frequently breaks over Cable Rock, 80m off the headland. The tide flows strongly through the gap. Beware of a deeper rock, about 50m off the shore, which breaks the lower half of the tide in bad conditions. The sea state off Bray Head is almost always more severe than on the adjoining coast. Rogue waves are not unusual. This is not a place to go swimming, as the escape routes are tricky, the few storm beaches having dumping surf.
This whole 3km section is a fine paddle, very scenic, the slopes of Bray Head rising above, and the cliffs at the water’s edge a modest rock-climbing haven. Look for the climbing cliffs just N of the Cable Rock headland. They are identified by the metal spikes in the steep ground in the first 20m above HW where the railway tunnel opens.
There are three landable storm beaches on the head, but they are exposed and steep, or even missing, at HW. Above them runs the railway line, which was engineered out of the cliff with great difficulty in the mid 19th Century. The most convenient embarkation point in Bray is at the extreme S end of the promenade at O276-179, closest to the head.
Tides
From Dalkey Island to Wicklow Head, 35km S, the N going flood runs from Dublin HW +0515 to 0045, achieving 3.5 knots in places, in springs. The S going ebb achieves 3 knots. N of Greystones though, it is mostly possible to keep inshore, out of the way of an unfavourable tide.
Greystones
O296-128 Sheet 56
Greystones Harbour lies almost 3km S of Cable Rock. Greystones North Beach is mostly shingle, backed by quickly eroding mud cliffs.
The beach inside the harbour is the easiest embarkation point for kayaks, at any point of the tide. Close nearby is a chip shop, ice cream, pub, and all small modern town facilities. The walk on the shore above the cliffs along here up Bray Head is lovely, as is the walking southwards along the shore.
The harbour environment has been the subject of massive development since about 2006. It is not clear whether the apartment complex / marina that were to accompany the harbour walls reconstruction will ever be finished. It is a work in progress, or as the case may be.
Greystones to Wicklow
O296-128 - T317-942 Sheet 56
For 20km S of Greystones, all the way to Wicklow town, the immediate coastline is uniformly flat and boring when seen from the sea. The backdrop however is the Wicklow Hills, known as the Garden of Ireland, always lovely. Landing can be achieved at any point but the shingle beach is mostly steep with dumping surf. On land, the going is anything but boring. The railway runs the entire length of the stretch, right on top of the beach, with pleasant perambulating pathways beside it. Four roads come down to the sea from the coastal highway, so the section may be broken into smaller bits for more leisurely-minded strollers. The more determined can walk from Bray or Greystones to Wicklow and get the train back.
SPA
Bewick and Whooper Swan, Little Tern, Golden Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit.
1km of rocky coastline S from the harbour, the town ends and the long beach begins at O299-121. The hinterland along the entire stretch attracts rare bird species, especially waders, and particularly in winter. 6km S along the sandy beach, the Kilcoole wetland system flows under a bridge at O315-061, called locally “The Breaches”, and into the sea. This wetland system is unique in being so low-lying that it has been scantily mapped by the OS.
More to the naturalist’s taste, there are two eco-systems in one, fresh water and salt water, side by side. The two are wonderfully different, barely separated, and the subject of much study as to their comparable flora and fauna. Barry O’Flynn of nearby Kilcoole carried out the first study in 1973. The more northerly is fresh water and includes a Birdwatch Ireland reserve, 1.5km N of the Breaches.
In summer, there is a colony of Little Tern maybe 200m N of the Breaches, the largest in Ireland, also a Birdwatch Ireland reserve, between the bridge and a major stand of Sea Buckthorn. The terns nest in the gravel of the beach, and are so splendidly camouflaged that it is truly inconsiderate to walk on the beach hereabouts at all in season. The colony area is well marked from landward. Please therefore be careful if landing.
Birdwatch Ireland are rumoured to have had a major crisis of conscience some years back about this colony. It was preyed upon by a Kestrel, who could scope the area wonderfully from a perch on the electricity wires where they crossed the bridge. The kestrel was so successful that it became necessary to employ wardens on a permanent 24/7 rota. Even the permanent wardening wasn’t enough and there were rumblings of a strategic alliance with a local gun club. The kestrel became famous under the stage name “Kevin the Killer Kestrel from Kilcoole”. It is said the Irish Minister for the Environment somehow persuaded his governmental colleague the Minister for Energy to put all electricity wires in the area underground, even at the bridge, and apparently it worked. Kevin lost his easy number, got bored, and went away, as bored kestrels do.
About 3km further S is Six Mile Point at O318-038, the most easterly point on the route. The km S of Six mile Point is the most intensive of all Irish bird reserves, managed by Birdwatch from their nearby headquarters.
Camping.
Pleasantly camp just about anywhere S of Greystones. Indeed this is probably the first grassy camping S of Dublin.
Tides
From Dalkey Island to Wicklow Head, the N going flood runs from Dublin HW +0515 to 0045, achieving 3.5 knots in places, in springs. The S going ebb achieves 3 knots. This stretch is unsheltered from ebb or flood, and is a sustained hard battle if against the tide.
Wicklow Town
T317-942 Sheet 56
Wicklow is a major town, where just about everything may be acquired.
Embarkation
Wicklow Harbour is by far the easiest access hereabouts for day trips to Wicklow Head, or journeys N. Most convenient for parking and launching is inside the E pier Use a sheltered gravel beach just inside the W pier where there is plenty of parking, reached by crossing the bridge in the town. Alternatively, use a slipway beside the Lifeboat Station just inside the East Pier T322-941, where parking is more restricted, reached by turning hard right before the bridge.
Broad Lough
The Leitrim River, only 1km long, connects the Broad Lough to Wicklow Harbour. The Broad Lough is an expanse of fresh water, running N for 4 to 5km, just inside the shoreline. The Lough is bounded on its E by a thin spit of low-lying land down which runs the main Dublin to Rosslare railway line. On the W is Tinakilly House, and some of the finest reed beds a thatcher ever saw. This is a summer breeding place of Reed Warbler. It is a wild place, home to Greylag Geese and myriad other wintering species in the cold months. It can be shallow and muddy at anything but high water which is sometime later than at Wicklow town itself. The Leitrim River is tidal with a significant flow on the narrower stretches when the water level in the harbour is lower than that in the lough. Broad Lough is good to paddle when conditions are bad elsewhere.
SPA
Little Egret, Hen Harrier, Peregrine, Merlin, Ruff, Bar-tailed Godwit, Kingfisher.
Wicklow Head
T235-924 Sheet 56
Wicklow Head is a serious attraction to E coast paddlers in search of truly powerful sea forces in a fullblooded open water environment, yet with sanctuary nearby. On the head is a huge lighthouse, amongst the most powerful on the East coast. There are cliffs and caves on both sides. There is a pronounced eddy system either side of the head itself, and guaranteed playtime except for the shortest of slacks. On passage, err with caution to get past efficiently, as this is undoubtedly one of the most significant headlands of the southern part of the E coast.
Tides
At Wicklow Head, the N going flood starts earlier than on the Dublin/North Wicklow coast further N. The flood tide runs from Dublin HW +0345 to 0115 approximately. Downstream, expect long powerful run-offs. It is always possible to rest in eddies in the lee of the head, except when the wind is from the eastern quadrant.
Inshore tides all along the Wicklow and Wexford coasts generally follow the direction of the coast, and information on timing is unreliable. From Wicklow Head to Arklow, the flood is thought to run up to 3 knots in springs and the ebb at 1 knot.
Off Wicklow Head itself where big boats go, the flood is up to 4 knots, and the ebb 3 knots, but close by the rocks where kayaks go, the current gets seriously fast. Local paddlers say 6 knots, both ways. Bride’s Head at T339-931 is 1km N of Wicklow Head, and on the ebb, the flow can be almost as strong there.
From Wicklow Harbour to Wicklow Head, the tide close inshore always runs SE. On the ebb, it runs strongly at up to 3 knots. On the flood, a major eddy system operates. Local paddlers report considerable struggles close inshore in springs. Going N, keep in the bumpy main flow for 1km at least and then keep at least 1km offshore until Wicklow Harbour.
Going S, on the other side of Wicklow Head, keep in the main flow as long as you can. A weaker eddy system operates, almost as far as Long Rock at Silver Strand at T338-910.
Embarkation
Access to the head is usually from Wicklow town as described above, but if a launching from S is preferred, there are several awkward choices. Public access is always available from Brittas Bay, but this is 10km to the S. Closer access points involve an awkward carry down steep steps to a beach. Magheramore beach at T330-884 is loved by surfers, especially on a low tide with a sustained wind from the S/SSE. Access by car is now disputed, though available, but please close the entrance gate at T324-886. The access at Silver Strand at T337-911 is the most reliable, at least in summer, and closest. The road access at T336-914 is through the more northerly of two paying caravan parks above the beach. It involves a cruelly steep carry down long steps and a (seemingly) much longer carry back up later. Camping is possible and the surroundings are pleasant. This is a famous fishing spot, and there is friendly surf on the beach for playing in. It may be closed in wintertime.
SPA
Peregrine, Merlin.
The South Coast
Wexford Harbour to Baltimore
County Wexford
Tuskar Rock
T227-072 Sheet 77
Ireland’s most south-easterly island, this austere, 5m high rock is 9km off the coast across strong currents. The passage is 11km from the beach, and deserves respect. There is a very remote and exposed feel to this place, which is famous for its lighthouse.
Landing
The steps at the small quay on the ENE side are probably the best landing. There is a narrow channel behind the quay but it surges. There are steps on the WNW side, should sea conditions allow. There are possible exposed landings at the S, and some shelving slabs on the N side, either of which might work.
Fauna
The island has an impressive list of recorded bird species, largely documented by R. M. Barrington (1900). Successive light keepers assembled the records from detailed recording in the 1800s. The island is a magnet for migrant birds due to its strategic position as the main entry and exit point from Ireland to mainland Europe. Barrington records several occasions when over 3,000 birds were killed at the light in one night during poor weather conditions. Seal, Common Porpoise and Dolphin are frequently reported.
Tides and Trip Planning
The trip planning requires thought. The tides run at over 3 knots in the main channel on springs (see details later). A straight out-and-back ferry glide may be impractical. A slingshot approach is recommended, (setting off upstream of the rock so that the tidal stream carries you onto it). There is no suitable launching place to the SW. Anyway, the tide sets over a dangerous shallow area halfway out on that side. This area is called The Bailies (T177-060), a long, thin, N/S strip, which should be avoided.
The option of coming from the N avoids The Bailies, and means catching the last of the S going stream. The S going stream starts at Dublin HW -0230 and ends at Dublin HW +0430, so aim to be on the rock at the latter time. Launch 90 minutes before from the beach at T140-123 at the back (i.e. SE) of Rosslare Harbour pier. The harbour is the major passenger and cargo ferry terminal of the SE of Ireland. Make no mistake, get out from the land and come down onto the rock. On the return journey, make for the mainland and then creep round Greenore Point. Tides speed up and overfalls occur at The Bailies and at Greenore Point.
Dangers
(a) Local paddlers report that the tide running past Greenore Point (as the tired paddler returns to land from the sea) can be the strongest encountered in the area. There is a report of a party seeing a lobster pot in this area, in mist, 1 or 2km out. Having decided to check the direction and speed of the current, they could not make it upstream to the pot! Consider that any slippage here shovels the paddler into the busiest part of the main shipping channel, and the need for care cannot be exaggerated.
(b) It is important to note that the shipping channel to France approaches Rosslare W of (i.e. inside) the Tuskar. The shipping channel to Wales, which includes the Lynx fast ferry, as well as all merchant shipping, lies outside to its N, and therefore should not concern this excursion. An enquiry as to French ferry times might be sensible.
History
The lighthouse was constructed in 1815 with 11 men losing their lives during construction. 10 were drowned when an October storm swept them away, leaving a further 14 hanging onto the rock for 3 days, one of whom died of his injuries later. It was also a dangerous place to be during World War 2, a light-keeper lost his life and a second was injured when a drifting mine exploded against the rock.
The Saltees
Sheet 77
Embarkation
Mainland launching is from the convenient, sheltered, pebbly beach immediately behind the W pier at Kilmore Quay. The beach is tucked in between the pier and Crossfarnoge (or Forlorn) Point at S965-032. Parking is generously available.
Parking is more limited at or near the harbour itself. Launching is possible off the slipway, but there is a per boat charge, rigorously policed. The beach on the E side of the harbour extends out a long way at LW, so is inadvisable.
Dangers
The main local trouble spot is an underwater bridge, very shallow, called Saint Patrick’s Bridge. It starts 500m E of Kilmore Quay pier, and reaches out, in a crescent shape, all the way to Little Saltee. It is particularly troublesome on the E going tide. Boats not travelling fast enough, or not laying off enough, will be pulled down onto the bridge, where rough and accelerated water is hard to escape. This happens almost immediately after leaving the harbour. If caught, it is best to ferry glide in behind Little Saltee. 3.5 knots is achieved in springs.
Saltee Sound, between the two islands, is another trouble spot. Sebber Bridge at X956-978 is a shallow reef, which extends northwards from the NE tip of Great Saltee. The tide sets more or less E/W through the Sound, over the shallows. On the W making tide, especially with a wind from the W, the water becomes very rough indeed N of Great Saltee.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough.
Tides
Trip planning requires care for the strong tidal streams, the timings of which do tend to catch out the unwary.
Tidal streams change about three to five hours behind local HW and LW. Local kayakers strongly disagree on the timings, giving times varying by up to 2 hours. It may well be that timings vary considerably with wind conditions, and whether there are springs or neaps occurring. One thing all local kayakers agree on is that on leaving the harbour area, you always look at one of the many lobster pot buoys to check that you have your calculations right.
Local HW is about the same as Cobh (actually Cobh +0019). The published information is that the E making flood tide in the two sounds flow for 6 hours, beginning at about Cobh HW –0030. This is the same as saying about an hour before local HW. The W making ebb tide flows for the other 6 hours from HW Cork +0530. This is the same as saying 5 hours after local HW, or an hour before local LW.
Local paddlers say this cycle begins an hour or even two ahead of that. If so, the E making flood tide begins at Cobh HW -0230 or so. They say that slacks occur when the tide is halfway up or down the harbour wall. If it is halfway up and rising, the E making flood is about to start. If it is half way down and falling, the W making ebb is imminent.
Avoid the crossing on the strongest of the E making tide, especially if there are any slow-boats in the party, for fear of Saint Patrick’s Bridge. Avoid also the strongest of the W making tide to avoid the run off over Sebber Bridge. Cross the race as high as possible, as the water really kicks up downstream of the gap.
Little Saltee Island
X966-996 Sheet 77
This island is less frequented than its better-known and more interesting neighbour. Historically, 3 people or so lived on Little Saltee until the mid-19th Century, when rumour insists it was connected to the mainland. Little Saltee was farmed until World War 2. The farm speciality was early-season new potatoes, but corn and other vegetables were also grown. 12 people were needed at harvest time. A thresher was brought over, in parts, in small boats. The island was abandoned and overgrown until recently.
Since 1999, the owners now farm pedigree cows, sheep, and fallow deer. Soon there may be rare Soay sheep, from the Scottish island of same name, just S of Skye.
The main house and some of its outbuildings have been made habitable. The courtyard has been tidied. There is a fine ruin of a two-storey barn and interesting remains of corn stands in the yard immediately W of the main building. There are the remains of an old well within the courtyard but it did not hold water in April 2003 and appeared long disused.
Landing
A flagpole above the main landing on the NW side at X966-996 presumably indicates when the family is in residence. Landing is possible among boulders below the house, normally reasonably sheltered by offshore boulders and rocks. One may also land elsewhere less dependably. Try the SW side on any of three storm beaches facing the Great Saltee. These are very much easier on lower tide levels.
Camping
The most suitable level ground for camping is in the area just W of the main house. Bracken and bluebells dominate the island and there are few grassy areas along the flatter western side. The vegetation is broken, lumpy and heavily grazed. The most pleasant areas are on the southern edge overlooking the storm beaches and the sound to Great Saltee. Do ask permission if the owners are in residence.
Great Saltee Island
X952-974 Sheet 77
This is a beautiful island. Grazed and easily walked or camped on, this island is lovely and deservedly popular with Irish paddlers.
The island is a famed bird-watching spot, and is often inhabited by birding visitors in season, mainly spring and autumn. Once inhabited by 20 people, the island became uninhabited relatively early by Irish island standards. There are monuments and references to Prince Michael of Saltee on the island. He bought the island in 1943, crowned himself Prince in 1972, and died in 1998.
Renewed interest in the island by his extended family has resulted in some of the scrub being removed around the remains of the old rick yard and the corn stands are more clearly visible.
Landing
Land at X952-974 on the N side, E of the middle. The main landing area has recently been improved with a channel having been cleared through the boulder beach, which in June 2003 gave a welcome sandy strip even at the lower stages of the tide. There are steps above to a house in trees. This landing is sheltered in most conditions.
Camping
Camping is not permitted on Great Saltee when inhabited by the owners.
Predictably, members of the family are almost certainly in residence in August, long weekends, or periods of settled good weather. The tradition of flying the Prince of Saltee flag from the flagpole above the landing when the family are in residence has been renewed. There are several new signs at the landing point regarding the terms by which people will be tolerated at all on such occasions. No camping is permitted at these times and day-trippers must vacate the island by 1630 hrs.
If camping while an island is unoccupied, it is critical to behave responsibly. Do not upset or disturb stock and keep away from private places.
Having said all that, the camping is excellent. There is water in a well at the house, but like all wells, it thrives with use and goes off otherwise. It looked very good in June 2003. There is also a bothy to the rear of the house, which saves camping, and is freely available with the usual bothy rules. Again, it is only available when the family are not about the place.
Circumnavigation
Circumnavigation gives good fun in tidal races off the appropriate points, but beware that there is much eddying. There is excellent cliff scenery, and a particularly pretty channel just E of the S tip. Sea conditions at the southern tip become fearsome in strong winds or with wind against tide.
Keeragh Islands
S866-059 Sheet 77
These two islets lie in Ballyteige Bay, 12km W of the Saltees, relatively close inshore. They are small lowlying Birdwatch Ireland bird reserves. There are two distinct islands, but they are always regarded as the one.
Landing is awkwardly practical at the N tip of each island, on either side of a projecting spit. On the bigger, northern island, there is an easy beachlet in a cut at the SW, facing the smaller island. Approach from the beach at Cullenstown at S869-077, 2km to the NNE.
Stay away in spring and early summer, as nests are too numerous to avoid. The ruin on the larger island was built in 1800 for survivors of shipwrecks, but is now dilapidated. There is still a sealed box inside with what looks like electricity going into it, suggesting a phone?
SPA
Arctic Tern.
Hook Head
X733-973 Sheet 76
Hook Head is a popular kayaking and scuba diving area based on the main town Fethard. A very attractive area, there is almost always sheltered sea-going hereabouts, almost regardless of wind direction. Beloved of divers, there is always calm water somewhere for the training of beginners. Out at the Head there are arches and blowholes, caves and wrecks, and clear shallow water mostly. The extensive sand beaches at Duncannon and Fethard contrast with the rocky cliffs by the Head itself. Across Waterford Harbour lies the beautiful fishing and tourist village of Dunmore East, to which excursions may be made, landing at the pier, which was the first ever built by Nimmo.
Early History
The early history of the Hook mirrors the early history of Ireland generally. The rocks locally are all sedimentary, limestones from 510,000,000 BP at the tip, then sandstones mudstones and siltstones progressively northwards. Below Wood Villageone can see the four post-ice age strata, a wave cut platform of former shoreline cut in folded siltstones, fossil raised beach, overlying mass of earth called “head”, and on top material called “till”, debris deposited by melting ice sheets 10,000 BP. Ptolemy’s map of Ireland 100+AD recognised the Barrow River (called “Birgos”) and appears to recognise Baginbun Head as a promontory fort known to the locals as Dún Domhnaill. There were 45 ring forts once, built 600 – 900 AD, with 13 surviving. These are now accepted as “one off” farmsteads and not specifically military. Almost all placenames are Viking. Bannow Island is where the Normans landed in 1169, invited in by Dermot McMurrough, the ultimate traitor. In quick time they captured Wexford town. In 1170 Richard leGros with +100 men landed at Baginbun Head, on its sheltered beach, with its defendable promontory, which he then defended successfully in battle against the men of Waterford. Shortly after, Richard deClare (Strongbow) landed at Passage East and together they beat the depleted Waterford defences and took the town. All this is considered good news by modern interpretation, but then the English followed in 1172 (not so good). The lighthouse on the Head itself was the first ever in Ireland, possibly in these islands, and it is the only Irish secular mediaeval building still serving its original function. Guided tours are available all summer. In 1,400+ Slade Castle was constructed.
Modern History
The story of Duncannon Fort reflects more recent Irish history. The island of Ireland was severely under-populated at about 750,000 when Irish Ireland was soundly defeated at Kinsale in 1603. The “settlement” of Ireland then began, and the island became subject to immigration from England and Scotland. Protestant / Catholic tensions across Europe began on the island of Ireland. In 1641 there was civil war in England between Parliament and King, and revolution was everywhere in Ireland including the Hook. Scots and Northern Irish Protestants backed the king, and native Irish and assimilated Normans and old English (called “Confederates”) saw the chance for independence. Duncannon Fort played a huge role locally, and under Royalists, was besieged time and again. In 1644 it even changed sides (in English terms, to Parliamentarian) but this changed nothing (in Irish - Confederate - terms). In 1645 it was forced to surrender to the Confederates. But then Cromwell arrived in Ireland 1649 and put manners on them all. The “Plantation of Ireland”, as Irish history terms its settlement by these outsiders, then began in earnest. The Planters were received with the same enthusiasm as Apache and Comanche would later demonstrate to settlers further west in a later century. After 1691 both kings departed Ireland from Duncannon. James skulked, but William went in style. The Hook wasn’t centrally involved in 1798, but nevertheless the worst anti-Protestant atrocity of the entire affair was perpetrated at Scullabulogue near Tintern Abbey when 100 elderly prisoners were burned in a barn. Fethard Dock was the scene of the only naval action of that rebellion, suffering the sinking of its ships and the destruction of its one warehouse. Duncannon Fort became less relevant by the century, and became finally and formally non-military in 1986. It is now a museum, art gallery, and restaurant.
Tides locally are complicated
Local HW / LW hereabouts are the same as Cobh, though obviously this is later up the Waterford Harbour Estuary, in fact +0100 at Waterford itself.
The E side of the Hook has no significant tidal movement, though there seems always to be clapotis off Baginbun Head S803-030.
In the estuary of Waterford Harbour on the W side of the Hook:
· The flood in the main channel runs from Cobh -0425 to +0045 and ebbs from Cobh +0045 to -0425. It generally achieves 0.75 on the ingoing flood and 1.5kn on the outgoing ebb. The ebb is southerlies therefore gives highly sporting deep water surfing, particularly from Credaun Head S718-036 up to Duncannon, but mind the shipping. These are busy waters.
· The ingoing flood, as far as Credaun Head, is strong along the W side, during which there may be slack or even a weak outgoing flow on the E side.
· Squeezing past Credaun Head itself, the floood reaches 2.5kn or 3.0kn.
· The outgoing ebb, between Duncannon and Hook Head, sets mainly along the E side, and gets very strong along the W shore of the Hook.
· The tail end of the outgoing ebb eddies at Credaun Head, as far as Portally Head 6km SW.
Outside, beyond the mouth of the estuary, the main E going stream floods from Cobh -0120 to +0450. Close inshore the E going flood and W going ebb start an hour or so earlier at -0200 and +0400.
At Hook Head itself, the “Tower Race” sets up on the ebb. It starts at the point and extends seaward for 2 / 3km. Its workings are very complicated, perhaps especially when the estuary is emptying into an oncoming ebb, with wind over. The combined tides set up a rotary eddy system, so the resulting direction of the run off at the Head varies enormously. These very powerful hydraulics should be avoided in adverse conditions.
Camping
There is an official legal campsite at Ocean Island Caravan & Camping S790-058, about 400m N of Fethard village. It welcomes visitors, but is primarily family based. Campervanning is popular down by the Hook itself, and camping sauvage is possible on the E and W sides of the Head, discreetly. There are also quiet but exposed spots above Baginbun Beach S800-033 and above Petit’s Bay S795-031.
Birdlife
The best spots are at the Head itself for the sea-watching, Fethard Salt Marsh ESE of the village, and Bannow Estuary 3km NNE of the village. Most common species include Oyster Cather, Gannet, Chough, Fulmar, Kittiwake, Guillemot, Razorbill, Skylark, Great Black Backed Gull, Cormorant, Shag, Curlew and Grey Heron.
Hook Embarkation Points
Grange Beach
S802-058 Sheet 76
A popular extensive beach 1km off the main street of Fethard, the local beach. Exposed to easterlies. Parking is on the roadside above the beach and is at a premium on hot days. Especially at LW the carry down the path and beach to the water can be gruelling. There are houses all along the roadway so do park considerately.
Fethard Quay
S807-052 Sheet 76
Sheltered by Ingard Point, this slipway is the logical local put in point for any group of kayakers heading to sea. The parking is tight here but manageable and with care the locals will not be inconvenienced. Sheltered from all wind directions save the N.
Baginbun Beach
S802-034 Sheet 76
The Normans chose wisely. This very sheltered sandy beach just NNW under Baginbun Head supports half a dozen cars and imposes only a short carry to the water. Exposed only to the NE, unheard of hereabouts.
Petit’s Bay
S796-032 Sheet 76
Called Carnivan Bay locally, just W of and sheltered by Baginbun Head, this beach requires a steep carry down a short path. Launch in almost all conditions. The parking above the beach is plentiful.
Sandeel Bay
S766-016 Sheet 76
Halfway between Baginbun Head and Slade village, an obvious rest spot. Parking is tolerable. Surfs in SE winds.
Slade Harbour
X747-985 Sheet 76
This pretty village is the start or finish of surely one of the best one hour perambulations in Ireland, the round of the Hook. Low cliffs on the E side, fields in between, the lighthouse with all its touristic attractions halfway, then the road back. Mackerel are sold in season on the quayside.
The parking is easy and launching is from the slipway, but the inner harbour dries at LW.
Doornogue Point
X732-981 Sheet 76
1km N of Hook Head the parking is easy. Launch from a small gravel beach, but swell may dictate otherwise. Spectacular blowholes hereabouts at HW.
Loftus Hall
X738-994 Sheet 76
2km NNE of Hook Head on the W (estuary) side, a sandy beach, locally called "Boyces Bay", well sheltered, with no public access, under the impressive Loftus Hall, once a nunnery, one huge square old building dominating the vuiew as one drives the Hook.
Lumsdins Bay
S754-010 Sheet 76
4km NNE of Hook Head, a sandy beach. It has a large seawall protecting the farm / houses above and a rough track with public access from the main Hook Road. Parking is limited along the track with turning possible in the farm entrance. Well sheltered in almost all conditions including Southerlies, although rocky reefs at either end to be avoided. Lugworm are in abundance here at LW for those keen on some fishing.
Templetown Beach
S754-030 Sheet 76
Just W of the popular Templetown Inn, a pub-grub establishment, there is no access from the roadside but there is a good sandy beach.
Dollar / Booley Bays
S750-055 Sheet 76
Actually both beaches are one beach at LW.
The passing of Broomhill Point S744-049 is a pleasure. The cliffs to southward are high and cut with fissures worthy of the west coast. This is probably the most impressive part of the entire round of the Hook.
There is limited parking at either beach. Dollar is a bit the easier. Both are beautiful.
Duncannon Beach
S730-080 Sheet 76
This magnificent beach is over 1km long, and flat, a favourite for kite surfing and such activities. Park above the beach, or for the lazy, drive onto the beach and unload. No matter how lazy, do not leave a car here. The tide does return.
Beware also that the shipping lanes in the estuary hereabouts are tight into this side. They run strongest immediately off the headland just NW the beach, on which is perched Duncannon Fort. This means the really big boats pass very close by, and the flow is strongest just offshore. With wind over, it can fairly kick up.
Duncannon Harbour
S727-083 Sheet 76
Launch from the public boat slip. Parking is convenient, but please do not block access to the pier.
Arthurstown Quay
S716-103 Sheet 76
Not recommended. Small harbour that dries out to leave a barrier of glutinous river mud.
Ballyhack Quay
S705-109 Sheet 76
Beware the ferry, and also the other large ships. This is this narrowest part of the estuary. Launch from the shingle beach S of the pier for better shelter. The parking is better too.
County Waterford
Tramore to Stradbally
S060-007 to X370-969 Sheet 76/82
Tramore town, beach and dune system is rightly known widely for many reasons. The dune system with its back starnd is a wonderful natural area, the beach is a surfer’s paradise, and the town has every amusement known to the holiday maker.
West of Tramore to at least Stradbally lies a particularly interesting stretch of coast that is very varied and interesting, comprising sea cliffs, groups of stacks, caves, arches and storm beaches that provide much visual interest. There is much to explore, and the geology is notable. The rock is mostly red sandstone or conglomerate, and the coast has a history of mining for copper in the 1800’s. Some of the ventilation shafts are visible from the sea. The islands for the most part are steep and precipitous sea stacks with landings only onto rock shelves. The challenge is to summit and many require a party with some rock climbing experience. The shore as far as Stradbally is dealt with here cove by cove and island by island, always heading westwards. The term “sheltered” may not always include for southerlies straight onshore, and common sense should be employed.
Caher Beach X548-983 Sheet 76
A truly stunning place with magnificent views, particularly westwards to Sheep Island. The beach is stony, there is good parking and sheltered enough launching.
Sheep Island
X536-979 Sheet 76
A magnificent twin peaked island reminiscent of North Mayo at its best.. It is detached from the mainland only at HW. Both halves of Shhep bear more arches and through caves per square metre than any other Irish island. The view of any of its offlying stacks through one of its arches is second to none. The island is prominent for long distances E and W. Summiting is probably very difficult everywhere and very dangerous, the more so the inner half.
Several soft landings.
Kilfarassy Beach X526-983 Sheet 76
Fine stony beach with reasonable shelter and good parking.
Burke’s Island
X525-997 Sheet 76
A beautiful steep island among many reefs and offlyers. It is climbable with care on the NW or SE sides. A lovely slot / cave twists through the SW corner. Cormorant and gulls roost and breed on the flat summit.
Annestown X500-987 Sheet82
Lovely sheltered part sandy beach just inside Brown’s Island, the beach is below and E of the town. A height barrier at the road preventing driving into the carpark for vehicles with roof loads will cause a 150m and offputting carry for some wishinh access.
Boat Strand Pier X477-985 Sheet 82
A busy working pier with a delightful beach and leisure area combined. Very sheltered. The parking deficit suggests small parties only.
Killmurrin Cove X466-987 Sheet 82
A sheltered sandy beach with plenty of parking and a reasonable carry.
Bunmahon X432-987 Sheet 82
A fine sheltered pebble beach. Parking for a dozen cars with concrete slip at W end of town, just as the main street turns sharply up and N.
Gull Island
X428-980 Sheet 82
Land in a small cut in the NE corner. Imposing “Buachal” type steep, rocky sea stack with narrow grassy ridge to attractive summit. Best climbed from seaward side by contouring around from landing or direct from seaward side if conditions allow. Not climbed in April 2005 but may have been previously. This is one of a number of stacks in close proximity separated by narrow channels. Attractive storm beaches and cliff scenery close by.
Breeding Cormorant, Herring and Great Black Backed Gull in April 2005.
Templebrick
X420-975 Sheet 82
Another fine imposing unsummitable stack, the largest hereabouts, with landing pro forma only, midway to Ballydowane, at the most prominent part of this cliff.
Ballydowane Beach
St John’s Island
X413-975 Sheet 82
Another imposing steep rocky sea-stack amongst a network of the like. A lovely sea-arch cuts through its centre, passable by sea kayak at most stages of the tide. A landing is possible on the landward N side of a reef jutting E from the NE corner. Its summit awaits rock climbers of merit. It dominates the view E from Ballydowane.
Ballydowane West Beach X407-977 Sheet 82
A lovely pebble beach with ample parking and good shelter, surrounded by steep cliffs. One part looks like good (but very hard) rock climbing on clean sandstone. The views left and right of needles, stacks and islands are lovely.
Ballyvoony X383-974 Sheet 82
The coast road swings right past this sheltered stormbeach with its orderly picnic tables and fine views.
Gull Island
X380-967 Sheet 82
Noticeably different to the other such islands along this coast, this Gull has a nearly flat-topped or at least more rounded appearance. The sides are steep but not of any serious gradient. Landing is in a small cut on the NE corner onto slippery kelp covered rocks at LW. Progress to the summit lies along an obvious fault line. Grassy on top with lots of evidence of breeding Gulls. A Cormorant colony of c.40 pairs on SW and W sides. The S / SW / W are steep and rocky. Several Sheet 82 smaller sea stacks and rocky outliers lieing off the S side allow for playful passage through the channels. Purely a way-stop for the curious as the beaches hereabouts are much easier of landing. No water. Good panorama of the coast from the summit.
Stradbally Cove X371-970 Sheet 82
Lying below the town, there is good parking and very sheltered launching, though a long carry at LW.
Helvick Head - Ceann Heilbhic
Helvick Head is a lovely spot, a noted holiday area. There is the ‘new’ pier at Helvick at X313-892 - Cé Heilbhic, just inside the head. This is a busy working trawler harbour. The ‘old’ pier is at Ballynagaul at X299-888- Baile na Gall, now quite silted. This is a noted small Gaelteacht area. The Clancy Brothers first made their musical name here. They emerged in the early 1960s to inject pride in English speaking Irish Ireland. The area as a whole is called Ring or An Rinn. The name probably derives from the mighty dune system guarding the inner bay called locally the Cunnigar - An Coinigéar.
Rock climbing
Helvick is a noted rock climbing spot. The cliff is about 1.5km SW of the gap between Helvick Head and The Gainers. The crag is immediately underneath and is accessed from the noted viewpoint and car park at X307-882. The rock is an isolated pocket of purple mudstone with some sandstone. This is said to be much better than pure red sandstone. It is solid, and takes good gear. The rock nearer to the head looks good from below, but is awkward to access from above, and may not be as good, being sandstone. Enquiries to Gerry Moss germoss@eircom.net.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough.
The Gainers
X319-893 Sheet 82
Known locally as Goat Island, this unpretentious group of fragmented rocks is really an extension of Helvick Head itself. The grass-topped inner island is the largest and is reachable on foot at LW springs. The outer rocks are pleasant to explore for their gaps, passages and small cliffs. The inner gap is a welcome escape route on passage and is usually navigable.
Landing and Embarkation
Land in or about the gap itself onto sheltered rocks.
Embark from the ‘new’ pier at Helvick at X313-892 - Cé Heilbhic where there is easy parking and launching beside the RNLI station inside the harbour. Toilets and water are available.
Round of Mine Head
Helvick is also the popular launching or landing spot at the E end of the round of Mine Head - Mionn Árd. Launch at the W end of this trip at a sheltered beach, either at Ardmore itself or nearer at X205-798. The journey may be broken at any of the many sandy beaches and coves, subject to conditions on the day. Mine Head is the highest lighthouse in Ireland, but the kayak on passage will not see it from immediately below because it is set back from the cliff edge. The only escape on the 15km passage is at Ballymacart Cove at X253-810, perhaps too close to the Ardmore end to be practical. Too close maybe to the other end is a beautiful beach known locally as Faill na Staicín at X298-877.
County Cork
Tidal Overview - Cork SE
Tides are generally weak between Cork Harbour in the W and Knockadoon Head, 30km to the ENE. However, there are significant races off the headlands and in the sounds between the islands (Ballycotton Sound and Capel Sound), where 2 knots is achieved. Slack water is thought by local paddlers to be at much the same time as LW/HW Cork. In Youghal Bay, southerly winds raise a heavy sea, and the tidal streams are rotary and very complex, running strongly over the bar, which is in midbay directly S of the river entrance, so caution should be exercised.
Capel Island
X100-700 Sheet 81
This attractive, 37m high island is just off Knockadoon Head, which separates Ballycotton Bay from Youghal Bay. It is privately owned but became (mostly) a Birdwatch Ireland nature reserve in 1994. The stub of an unfinished lighthouse on its highest point dominates the island. Stone walls surround the building, and a small, square outhouse is worth investigating to see the dramatic drop from the hole in its floor. The seaward side of the island is most attractive and there is a colony of breeding Cormorant (60 pairs in 1995) at the SW corner. Otter are also present. There is no water, and a possible deterrent to camping is a herd of goats. There were 30 or so in 1995, only 12 in 2002.
Embarkation
There is a pier and slipway at X092-703 for embarkation at Knockadoon Head where there are two well-sheltered beaches. The only water hereabouts is at houses and the local Dominican summer school camp, and the nearest shops and facilities are at Ballymacoda, 5km to the W.
Landing
A low headland projects NW from mid-NW side of the island. There are beaches at either side of the base of this headland. The beach to the SW side (on a direct line between Knockadoon Pier and the tower on the island) does not exist at HW and is more exposed, but access to the interior is easier. The beach to the NE side does not exist at HW and access to the interior is scramblier. At HW, a deep-water landing may be had onto rocks on the sheltered cove E of this headland.
Tides
Local HW/LW is as Cork. A fierce tide runs through Capel Island Sound, and while the timing of slack water is not known with any certainty, it is thought by local paddlers to be much as for LW/HW Cork. In Youghal Bay, southerly winds raise a heavy sea.
The coastline westward to the beach at Ballymakeagh at X050-688 is very pleasant, and there are great views eastwards to Ardmore and Helvick.
Knockadoon Head was the fastest developing rock climbing crag in Ireland in 2003.
Ballycotton Islands
There are two contrasting islands lying just off the coast from Ballycotton village in E Cork.
Embarkation
Embarkation is best from a small slipway at the village where there is a small field in which to park, and a very easy gradient yielding a short carry of 50100m maximum. This is about 1km WNW of the harbour, opposite the Garda barracks. It is reached by a laneway beside a shop at W989-643. There is water available here and also at the harbour from public taps. Ballycotton has good facilities, B&Bs, pubs and restaurants. The harbour itself is slightly further E at W999-637. Launching is difficult, but is possible from either of two slipways reached by narrow, steep alleyways. Descent to the beach is also possible behind the toilets on the main pier. In addition, there are steep, narrow steps halfway down the outside (E) of the pier which gives awkward access to a small beach. The W pier of the harbour is little more than a breakwater.
Tides
In Ballycotton Sound and between the inner island and the coast, 2 knots is achieved,. Slack water is thought by local paddlers to be much as for LW/HW Cork.
Small Island
X004-637 Sheet 81
Known locally (quite logically) as the Inner Island, it is low and grassy, with extensive reefs and rocky shorelines at low water. It is just accessible on foot at LW, though not easily, and it involves getting your feet wet. Landing is best on the eastern side, facing the outer island, where there is a small beach, just where the island is waisted. There is no water. In 2002, three full-blooded male goats proved quite a deterrent to wouldbe landers or campers. Blowholes.
Ballycotton Island
X011-637 Sheet 81
Known locally as the Outer Island, and also as the Lighthouse Island, it is 50m high, steep and rocky. The lighthouse and associated buildings dominate the high part of the island. There are two landings, each difficult, each consisting of a flight of steps to a pier, located on the N and E flanks respectively. There is a small seaarch on the SE tip. There are breeding Shag, Great Blackbacked Gulls, and Herring Gulls.
Cork Harbour
SPA
(Parts only) Bewick & Whooper Swan, Golden Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit, Common Tern.
Tides
Cobh is a standard port for tidal information for most of the S/SW of Ireland. HW Cork is Cobh +0020, and is 0.3m higher. The ingoing stream at the mouth of the harbour runs from Cobh -0540 to HW. Spring rates generally of 1kn increase to 1.5kn and more in the narrow places and shallow places. The West Passage of Great Island, particularly where narrowest at Verolme Dockyards, can achieve 3kn. The tidal streams in the harbour generally flood N and W, following the channels, strongest in the middle, circling islands both sides, notably Great Island. They generally ebb in reverse.
There are exceptions:
· The current is always weak at about the Spit Bank just 1km off Cobh itself,
· At the harbour mouth, the ebb runs SE from Ram’s Head W811-619 towards Roches Point W824-601 and then SW, so that even the largest vessels are swept towards White Bay and then crabbed across the mouth of the harbour towards Ringabella Bay W795-580,
· In reverse, much the same, the stream sets into White Bay then NW,
· The strength of the tide is raised by S wind and especially SE wind (for a longer stronger flood). An increase of up to 1m has been known in Cork in gales.
· The strength of the tide is cut by N winds (for a weaker shorter flood), and by fresh water in the rivers in quantity (for a longer stronger ebb).
At or about LW and the beginning of the flood
· At the harbour mouth, the main flood stream makes into the harbour at first on the W side past Camden Fort at Ram’s Head W811-619, -0020 before mid-channel.
· The stream in White Bay is weak.
· If there is fresh water flowing in the Owenboy River from the direction of Carrigaline, the stream there sets on its S side and around Ram’s Head W811-619 for some time after the flood has otherwise begun.
· From Ram’s Head W811-619 the ingoing salt water stream branches – part goes up the Owenboy River in the direction of Carrigaline W740-625, - and the main stream goes N, almost immediately dividing into two streams, one W of Cobh towards Cork and the other towards the E channel of Great Island.
· Because at this stage fresh water is still flowing outwards from the E channel of Great Island, when the two streams meet, a remarkable eddy forms around the area of the Spit Lighthouse W812-658. An inshore current is forced across Cuskinny Bay W820-670 and along the shore as far as Morloag Point W853-672.
· The flood is felt at Paddy’s Point W795-647 fully -0030 anywhere else in the harbour. For a considerable time before any change in midstream, the flood sets close inshore past this point, Ringaskiddy W777-648 and as far as Monkstown W771-661 and sometimes further. This is apparently because in mid-channel, an undercurrent sets before the surface current makes.
· The ingoing W flood stream does not make at Cobh until a full hour at least after it has begun at the harbour mouth.
· The length and strength of the tide from Cobh up to Cork depends a lot on the amount of fresh water in the river.
At or about HW at the beginning of the ebb
· The outgoing stream E of Great Island begins -0100, and continues along the E side of the harbour past Corkbeg Island W827-637
· The stream out of the Owenboy river begins -0100
· If there is much freshwater in the river Lee, there is a strong E ebb close inshore past Cobh. The ebb stream past White Point W786-657 strikes Haulbowline Island and then runs towards Deepwater Quay at Cobh.
Great Island
W805-665 Sheet 87 / Sheet 81
This island is unique amongst Irish islands in having a large town, Cobh. The island is located in the centre of Cork Harbour and is dominated on its southern flank by the town of Cobh. It is joined to Fota Island in the NE by a short bridge at Belvelly at W791-708. Access has improved in recent years with the introduction of a passenger and vehicle ferry between Carrigaloe and Passage West at W772-675, thereby shortening road travel time to Cork City.
The island has a long history of human settlement dating back to the Phoenicians, but owes much of its development to its fine natural harbour. Its naval importance and its use as a port for transatlantic liners has left the town with a long nautical association. Much of the town’s fine architecture dates from the early 1800’s.
Historic attractions include a fine cathedral, Cobh Heritage Centre and Old Church Graveyard, where many of the victims of the Lusitania are buried. The town’s long association with the White Star Line’s Titanic and Mauritania has been re-kindled recently with the opening of the Titanic Rooms bar and restaurant in what was the old White Star Line Shipping Offices.
Great Island is 7km long by 4km wide. The geology is Old Red Sandstone overlaid with Limestone in the valleys. The northern shorelines are estuarine, and the island is separated from the mainland at its western and eastern flanks by two river gorges. A full circumnavigation is an interesting day’s paddling, bringing the kayaker through urban, industrial, estuarine, agricultural and scenic landscapes.
Circumnavigation
Embarkation for a circumnavigation is recommended from White Point at W786-658 or alternatively at any of several slipways in Cobh, perhaps the best of which is under the town clock directly opposite Eddie English’s Sail Training Centre at W805-665. It is recommended to follow a clockwise route around. The entire distance is about 27km, or 5 hours paddling, but allow for stops.
Tides
Tidal flows in the river gorges (W and E sides) run to 3 knots in springs but these can be utilised to advantage in the timing of one’s passage. The critical factors in a circumnavigation are (a) to pass close enough to HW where the tides meet, which is under Belvelly Bridge W791-707, and (b) to clear Rosslague Point at W800-703 just to its E before the ebb exposes the mudflats.
A trip in spring/autumn/winter is best from a natural history point of view as both Lough Mahon to the NW and the North Channel have large numbers of ducks and waders to provide interest.
The western river passage is a busy shipping lane to Ringaskiddy Port and Cork City. Care is required passing the old dockyard at Rushbrooke and IFI fertiliser jetties at Marino Point at W772-694. The Ro/Ro ferry service at Carrigaloe-Passage West also moves surprisingly quickly.
Camping
Camping is possible and quite pleasant from Ashgrove at W860-696 at the NE point, to East Ferry, to Morlogue Point at W852-672 at the SE point. Water is not available but the area is pleasantly wooded and there are several grassy fields that are quite remote.
The eastern river passage down to East Ferry is quite scenic and one has a choice of two hostelries for lunch. The Morlogue Inn at W853-683 is situated on the Great Island side about halfway down and Murphy’s Bar is on the mainland opposite.
Once around Morlogue Point at W852-672, passage is westward towards Cobh. A Birdwatch Ireland nature reserve is located at Cuskinny Bay at W818-673. The Spit Bank Lighthouse at W812-658 marks the edge of the Spit Bank and is worth a detour. The tidal flow is weaker on the Spit Bank and gives better views of Cobh than the main channel, being that bit out and thereby gaining perspective. Spike Island at W805-645 and Haulbowline Island at W789-655 dominate the views to the S.
Haulbowline Island
W789-655 Sheet 87
A small island located just S of Cobh town in Cork Harbour. As the name suggests the island has naval associations and the island is totally dominated by buildings of the Naval Service on its western side, the National Maritime College and University College Cork Marine Research Centre. . Many of these buildings date from the 1700-1800’s when Cork Harbour was a significant port of the British Navy. The oldest buildings face Great Island and a Martello Tower at W789-655 dominates the island’s highest point. The E end is spoilt by the decaying remains of Irish Steel, a major steel manufacturing company which for many years ran its operation here, but became bankrupt a few years ago, and operations ceased 2001. The extreme E side is reclaimed polder on which the slag and spoil from this industrial site was dumped. The Naval Basin is also on the E side of the island and kayakers can enter to view the ships of the Irish Naval Service.
Landing
Landing is not encouraged but is possible at several slipways on the southern side and in the Naval Basin. Ferries run from Cobh to piers on the northern side for Naval personnel. Small boats should be wary of these when passing along the northern edge. The NW corner of the island juts out into the main shipping channel between Cork city docks and the ferry port at Ringaskiddy, so kayakers rounding this point should be careful at all times.
Tides
The main river channel from Cork City and the ferry port at Ringaskiddy flows through a narrow passage between Haulbowline and White Point on Great Island just NW. The tidal flow achieves 2 knots at this point. The main tidal flow splits at Haulbowline with the much lesser flow running along the southern side of the island.
Future
Ambitious plans for cleaning up and developing the whole island to a standard to rival Dublin’s Irish Financial Services Centre were announced 2006. If these come to pass, the island will have apartments, hotels, offices, marinas, everything the well appointred Irish island really needs.
Rocky Island
W793-650 Sheet 87
Haulbowline Island is joined to the mainland near Ringaskiddy on its S side by a road bridge. The bridge spans to and from Rocky Island. The road bisects the island. Rocky received planning permission for use as a crematorium in late 2006. The crematorium will be W of the road and parking E.
High rocky and fortified, the summit is a big tent shaped rock in the middle. Its triple ramparts and central citadel were a gunpowder store from 1808. The outer trenches were lit by candles recessed into hollows in the wall for safety. Unoccupied 1920s to 1964, Irish Steel built the bridge when it took over, and it was storage until 2001.
Rocky is always landable because the bridge supports give shelter, especially on the landward Ringaskiddy side where the rocks are shelving.
Spike Island
W805-645 Sheet 87 / Sheet 81
This island is located very close to the centre of Cork Harbour and the distinctive flat-topped fort dominating the island was until recently a civilian prison. The island is a good rest/lunch area for kayakers touring the harbour area. Most of the rest of the island apart from the extensive fort is grassland with some copses of Scots Pine along the N and W sides. The E and S sides are steeper with scrub and furze dominating the vegetation. Landings are possible at most points of the island but probably best at the NE corner at W807-649 near a very large limestone warehouse. A ferry service for Military and Prison staff runs from Cobh to the island pier at the NW corner at W800-648.
The island’s history is largely military because of its strategic position and the importance of Cork Harbour in British Naval history. The island commands the approaches to the outer and inner harbour and formed a triangle of defence with the twin forts of Camden at W809-618 and Carlisle at W819-624, located on either side of the narrowest part of the entrance to the harbour. Spike Island has a distinctive flat-topped appearance due to the presence of its large sunken fort. The fort has witnessed various uses by both the British and Irish governments ranging from Internment Centres to Military Prisons and Military Training Areas. The island was also used occasionally as a Quarantine Zone for imported livestock. Current plans for the intensified use of the island include a prison, but with a land bridge, as the ferry cost was a major factor shutting the prison in the past.
On the N side facing Cobh, there are many old military style houses and storage areas. Most of these buildings are now in an advanced state of disrepair. The foreshore is predominantly shingle and stony beaches and the area between Ringaskiddy Point at W794-647 and the western shore dries out to expose large areas of muddy estuary. However, the route is navigable by kayak at all stages of the tide.
Tides
The Spit Bank lies off the island’s northern shore and is marked at its NE edge by the Spit Bank lighthouse at W812-658. Tidal flow on the bank is less than in the main harbour channels and may be useful to kayakers travelling up or down river against the flow.
Landing
Traditionally, landings have not been encouraged. The military had sentries posted at all points to deny access. However, this practice has been relaxed in recent years and kayakers remaining away from the main fort area have not been challenged.
Tidal Overview - Cork SW
Off the coast from Fastnet to Cork Harbour, the tidal streams achieve 1.0 - 1.5 kn in springs, and eddy strongly at the headlands. The flood makes for an E going stream starting at Cork -0420 and finishing at Cork +0150.
Sovereign Islands
W689-470 Sheet 87
Situated outside the bay called Oysterhaven. No obvious embarkation point. Basically, these are two rocky outcrops of islands only accessible during the most benign of weather and have "interesting" scrambling potential. They are separated by a fine creek, in width about the length of a small boat. In places the ascent requires pure rock climbing up attractive corner features. Lovely when accessible, definitely a place to tarry a while.
Sandy Cove Island
W640-472 Sheet 87
Sandy Cove Island is an unremarkable lump that shelters the entrance to Sandy Cove, a small deep inlet just W of the mouth of Kinsale Harbour. The island is grassy and almost lush. Surprisingly perhaps it is grazed only by goats. There are many large holiday homes opposite on the mainland. Therefore, camping would most likely be discouraged. No water was found.
Herring Gull breed here. There is a suspicion that rodents do too.
Landing and Embarkation
Embark from a slip at W637-473 to the NW of the island. The trip is about 200m. Good parking. Landing is directly opposite at the W end of the island onto sand or shingle. The sound will always be sheltered but may have nice clean surf waves as the swells from one side meet the tide from the other.
Old Head of Kinsale
W625-406 Sheet 87
This mighty headland extends 7km out to sea, W of Cork Harbour. Magnificent and rocky, it ‘boasts’ a golf course over the entirety of its outer parts, denying pedestrian public access over much of its amenity. This is said to be the finest, and certainly is among the most expensive golf courses in the world, to which the very rich, mainly American break-takers, fly in especially. A major battle has been conducted in the courts and on the ground between the competing interests of entrepreneurial private property on the one hand and the Keep Ireland Open spirit on the other. It is claimed that a traditional right of way existed historically, but this is denied. Both sides seem to accept that casual strollers cannot co-exist with golfers, and no compromise is thought possible by either camp. There was a rock-climbing crag at the head itself, now disused.
The grid reference given is for a narrow neck halfway out, to the E and W of which are Holeopen Bay, E and W respectively. Through this narrow section, S of which lies the golf course, run three caves. One (narrow but deep) is kayak friendly and should in most conditions allow passing kayaks to avoid the rounding of the headland itself. One (broad but bouldery) might also do so at HW. A third allowed researchers a glimpse of light and might require cool nerves. The caves are immediately inside a prominent sea stack on the W side, and under the golf course flagpoles on the E side.
Cliffy and gorgeous, do not readily pass by without a visit.
Embarkation
Put in at either the muddy beach just NW of a pier on the E side at W619-434 or at a sandy beach backed by an hotel on the W side at W610-430. Either way the shuttle is only about 2km, easily walkable.
Tides
Expect clapotis on the windward/uptide side. When the flow is at full strength, major eddies set up on the downstream side of the head. Thus, the flow is always southwards on both sides close in. These collide with the mainstream at the head, so expect a race off the tip of the head itself and a little downstream. It is reported that when winds are calm enough or from other than the southern quadrant, the mainstream race stays off the tip itself, somewhat out to sea, so that kayaks may scrape through inside. The flood is eastwards from HW Cobh -0420 to +0205 and reaches 2.5 knots in springs.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough.
Glandore Harbour
Tides are very weak inside this S Cork inlet. There are two islands inside the harbour itself.
Adam’s Island
W237-326 Sheet 89
This 28m high island lies in the mouth of Glandore Harbour. The high profiled island has very steep cliffs on the SW and E sides. Landing is possible with difficulty on the N extending reef on the rocky N side, where it is possible to paddle through the reef. Also on the SE should conditions allow. Summitting safe from either landing spot. The island does not appear to have ever been inhabited. No water. Craft entering Glandore Harbour obey the saying "Avoid Adam, hug Eve" in deference to the shallows hereabouts.
Eve’s Island
W230-335 Sheet 89
An 8m high, waterless, grassy rock inside Glandore Harbour, with landing easiest on the N side.
Stack of Beans
W228-314 Sheet 89
1km WSW of the headland on the W side of Glandore Harbour, and 1km E of Squince Harbour lies a group of islands the smallest of which is this stack. Named for its parabolic appearance viewed from the N, it looks like y=x2 inverted. Landing is usually easy on the N side and climbing to the top is safe and easy. The views W take the breath away.
Rabbit Island East
W227-314 Sheet 89
Really a pair of giant stacks detached from Rabbit Island. It is possible to get through the channels except at LW. The stach nearer Rabbit is climbable in the E side with care. The larger taller steeper stack farther from Rabbit will be too dangerous a grassy scramble for most tastes.
Rabbit Island
W223-315 Sheet 89
This pleasant, formerly inhabited island is the mainstay of this group and very much worthy of a camping stopover. The best landing place is halfway along the N coast, on a sheltered pebble beach under a ruined house. There is sheltered camping beside the house, but no water was found.
The island is waisted N/S at this point, and camping may also be had on the other, S side of the waist, also from a pebble beach, for that ‘oceanic feel’. Land also at any number of other pebble beaches on this much-fragmented, attractive island, which is well worth pottering around, on foot or afloat.
This island is privately owned (1997) by an owner who would prefer exclusive use of the S facing beach referred to above at W222-314 for picnics and boat, but otherwise would allow well behaved visitors to use the rest of the island in passing.
There are wild horses, burrows, Chough and Linnet on the island. Otter were seen on the W side and at the Stack of Beans on the E side.
High Island
W220-297 Sheet 89
2.5km SSW of the headland on the W side of Glandore Harbour, this splendid steep, craggy, rugged, grass topped island is not for the faint-hearted. Any landing is from deep water onto rock, but there are two very sheltered coves on the N side, one facing E and the other W towards Low Island. The easier scramble to the summit is from the E cove, in proof of which I point to the blood on the rocks at the foot of the W cove, which is mine. The main nesting birds are Lesser Black-backed Gulls, and Shag. The main interest for the kayaker is the varied host of creeks and rocky passages on the Low Island side, and the sporting, surfing reefs and bumpy water generally on the outside, especially with a tide running.
Low Island
W217-298 Sheet 89
Low Island lies close by to the NW of, and is dominated by, High Island, its impressive neighbour. Landings may be had on the SE side facing High Island, or also on the NW side. In each case, land easily onto a sheltered pebble beach. The big goat reported in earlier editions seems to be gone and no longer makes camping insecure. However, camping is insecure in that the ground is very sandy, reluctant to hold tent pegs, and this type of topsoil is thought to be rodent friendly, and there are lots of them! The island is not dramatic.
Horse Island
W178-290 Sheet 89
Located S of Castlehaven and Castletownshend and tucked in against the shore, the island is nowadays ungrazed. Camping would therefore be very difficult as it has become very overgrown. It has a tower, and splendid views. The landing is in Flea Sound on the N side of the island, where Basking Shark have been spotted.
The Stags of Toe Head
W150-246 Sheet 89
These rocks are 1.5km or so directly off Toe Head. They present one amorphous blob from the N, but from the E or W side they present their true character, which is three tall parallel reefs separated by creeks. The centre creek dries at low tides, giving the better chance of a landing as there are baylets on either side, to be chosen according to wind direction. There is no water; this is just a very exposed waystop. Nesting auks and gulls. Note especially the flag marker SW of the rocks, marking the ‘other end’ of the wreck of the ‘Kowloon Bridge’, reputedly the largest shipwreck in the world. Marvel at its size as the distance to the flag is considerable.
Tides
Tides run strongly in Stag Sound, between the Stags and Toe Head, achieving 22.5 knots in springs, when a sustained W wind will extend the flood and weaken the ebb. Generally, the flood runs from HW Cork 0435 to +0150. Local HW/LW are about half an hour ahead of Cork.
Lough Hyne
Lough Hyne, an inland saltwater lake, is Ireland’s only officially designated ‘Marine Reserve’. On the island in the middle stands the ruins of O’Driscoll’s Castle, from which it gets the name, Castle Island. The Lough fills for 4 hours, from local HW -0200 to local HW +0200, and empties for the remaining eight hours. Local HW is about 20 minutes before Cobh. At the narrow entrance, known as The Rapids, the water changes direction, depending on the state of the tide. Standing waves worthy of the interest of surfers form on outgoing spring tides near low water. The ingoing stream also makes for a good rush of water, worthy of play. The lough is famous for its night paddles, as there is excellent phosphorescence in the sheltered water.
The lough is a pretty place, surrounded by hills covered by deciduous forests. The easiest launch, and most convenient car parking, is at a slipway on the N shore. There is camping at the pier on the W shore for the waterborne passerby.
The interest of the lough to scientists lies in its deep, tidal, salt water in a controlled environment. Academics from universities all over Europe come to research the marine life to be found in the lough and its rapids. For instance, the lough boasts the biggest scallops found anywhere.
It is much loved by divers, as depths of 45m can be had with good visibility close to the shore in a sheltered environment, although any disturbance of the silty bottom soon puts an end to the visibility. The necessary authorisation/permit may be had locally.
Typically of such a formation, the outgoing stream continues long after the tide outside has started to rise; the same happens in reverse although it is less pronounced. HW/LW outside the lough are about half an hour ahead of Cork.
Castle Island
W097-284 Sheet 89
Castle Island is in the middle of the lough. On the island stand the ruins of O’Driscoll’s Castle, from which the name comes.
Bullock Island
W103-276 Sheet 89
Just downstream and E of the rapids of the famous Lough Hyne, this steep wooded island is joined to the mainland to the N by a spit, which is only covered at the highest tides, and on either side of which one may land. There is no camping and a steep track leads up into the dense woods where marine scientists have a shack for their observations of the special marine world locally. There are caves in the SW of the island.
Kedge Island
W066-243 Sheet 88
A rocky islet lying about 3km E of the southern entrance to Baltimore Harbour, there is no easy landing, but there is a sheltered (from westerlies) inlet in the NW with reported rich flora and fauna (seals).
West Cork
Roaringwater Bay to the Beara Peninsula
County Cork
Roaringwater Bay
Roaringwater Bay, in the extreme SW of Ireland, is excessively named. In fact, its many islands guarantee sheltered water in almost all conditions. Its userfriendly aspect makes it a most popular area for watersports and boating. The area generally tends to be very popular in summer, because there is always somewhere to hide in Roaringwater Bay.
From Sherkin and Cape Clear Islands in the S to Mizen Head in the W, it is more accurately called Long Island Bay. Roaringwater Bay proper is tucked into the sheltered NE corner.
A feature of virtually all the islands, caused by their sandstone geology, is ‘waisting’. Waists are narrow points where the islands are almost cut in two, and sometimes three, by the sea. Indeed, they may soon be. These waists are heavily relied on in the text for locational descriptions. -Beaches or landing points, and other places, are often located by reference to the waist. This waisting is not always obvious from a casual glance at the halfinch OS map, but the modern OS 1:50,000, sheet 88 does much better.
Embarkation
The many islands of the bay are reached from the pretty towns of Baltimore to the SE or Schull to the NW. Each town boasts every possible convenience to the holidaymaker. Here, as elsewhere in the region, the standard of pub and restaurant food is superb. Hostels and accommodation of all kind abound. Vehicles may conveniently be left in either location. Both towns are famous for their sailing schools, Baltimore having the edge perhaps. Baltimore has a regular year-round ferry to Sherkin and Cape Clear Islands. There is a ferry to Cape Clear Island in summer from Schull.
Tides
The big picture is that the flood flows E from Mizen Head through the islands of the bay, and outside Cape Clear Island. Among the islands of the bay, the flood generally turns S and then E where circumstances suggest. In this way, the flood runs E along both the N and S sides of the islands, and generally S through sounds that run N/S. The reverse is also true, the ebb flowing generally W and N through the sounds.
This is particularly true of Gascanane Sound, between Sherkin and Cape Clear.
Important and predictable exceptions occur. The flood streams N through the sound between Long Island and Castle Island and ebbs S. This allows the large enclosed water area of Schull Harbour to the N to be filled and emptied. In the same way, the large enclosed water area of Baltimore Harbour fills from both sides, N and S. In the sound between Sherkin and the mainland, the flood is N and the ebb is S.
Sherkin Island
W028-257 Sheet 88
Population 90.
Embarkation and Landing
The pier in Baltimore Harbour is the embarkation place for the island. The main pier on Sherkin is on the E side of the island just below the abbey, all clearly visible from Baltimore. There is a water tap on the pier. The strand on the S side of the pier is a very sheltered, stony beach.
Camping
Prominent, ivy-clad O’Driscoll Castle stands 300m N of the pier. Below the castle is a very steep slipway, and above the castle is the hotel. The best camping is above the slipway. It is best to ask in the hotel. There is another water tap just outside the hotel and below ‘The Jolly Roger’ pub.
Circumnavigation
The Globe Rocks, awash at LW, are just N of the pier. The sound at the NW of the island between it and Spanish Island is called ‘The Sound’.
Dock Pier is just W of the N entrance to The Sound, in a safe, well-sheltered ENE-facing cove at W023-273. Along the whole N side of the island, beware of the Cape Clear Island ferry, as the depth is shallow and the boats are very frequent in summer. Many yachts will also be encountered, many of which are being driven by beginners, and further care is needed in that regard.
The very sheltered Kinish Harbour on the NW side, which mostly dries, has a mighty current, perhaps 2kn, at the entrance at W017-259. Beware of Carrogoona Rocks just E of the entrance. It is only a 150m carry to Cow Strand at W014-253 from the quay at the SW side of the harbour.
W of the entrance to Kinish Harbour is the Sherkin Island Marine Station. The landing point at W010-259 involves a lot of weaving in between offshore rocks but the landing itself is quite sheltered. The Marine Station, in addition to its research activities, privately publishes works on bird life and natural sciences, particularly aquatic flora and fauna. Especially recommended is their ‘Ireland’s Marine Life, A World of Beauty’, a stunning collection of underwater pictures taken locally in Roaringwater Bay. The price at time of writing was €20.00, plus postage. Contact them on 028 20187 or by e-mail at SherkinMarine@eircom.net.
Cow Strand is the more southerly and smaller of two strands in the large curved bay on the W part of the N side of the island. It is a bit public in summer but a great spot nonetheless. Silver Strand at W012-255 is just to the N of Cow Strand. It is probably the best beach on the island and camping is to be had in the cliffs at the S end. Above both beaches, an islander collects modest camping fees. Both beaches slope gently and attract big swells, getting dangerous when the wind is SW to NW.
3-400m S of Cow Strand is Priest’s Bay at W012-247, which is very secluded. SW of Priest’s Bay is the nice, crescent-shaped, sheltered Trabaun Strand at W010-245.
On an anticlockwise trip around, the coast from here to the well-named Horseshoe Harbour at W027-254 is more or less inaccessible all the way. An exception may be Tracrua at W003-240, a narrow inlet just S of Sherkin Point. Horseshoe Harbour lies just W of the sound to the E of the island, very near everything and very secluded. The rocky landing is in at the back.
Tides
The stretch of water around Cape Clear and Sherkin Islands is regarded by locals as serious, and not to be underestimated.
The tidal stream floods E on both the N and S sides of Sherkin Island. Baltimore Harbour fills from both the NW (between Sherkin and Spanish/Ringarogy Islands) and from the S between the mainland and Sherkin. These flood streams meet in the middle of the harbour at Lousy Rocks. After that, the combined stream heads E and then NE into Church Strand Bay, NE of the town. The ebb is the reverse. These flood tides begin at HW Cobh +0545, and the ebb at HW Cobh 0025.
Gascanane Sound is between Sherkin and Cape Clear Island. The SE flood and the NW ebb each start about half an hour earlier, at Cobh +0520 and 0055.
In many places, especially Gascanane Sound, the tide runs fiercely, at up to 3kn, causing dangerous eddies and overfalls, especially near the rocks in the middle of Gascanane Sound, known as Carrigmore Rocks and Gascanane Rocks. The steepto rock on the Sherkin side of the sound is Illaunbrock.
Cape Clear Island - Oileán Cléire
V954-218 Sheet 88
This Gaelteacht island is truly the Land’s End of SW Ireland. Cape Clear is actually the most SW point of Cape Clear Island, called Pointabullaun at V943-197. Mountainous, steep, and imposing, the island is home in winter to about 135 people or 110 voters and many more in summer. A ferry runs all year from Baltimore - twice daily in winter, more often in summer. In summer, there is also a ferry from Schull. The island has pubs, B&Bs, restaurants, two hostels, a well-appointed campsite at V954-212, windmills, very basic shops and provisions, and the most famous bird observatory in the country at V954-219.
The island is extremely waisted, the waist being known as ‘The Waist’, with the North Harbour to landward, and South Harbour on the seaward side. The waist itself is high and narrow, and the roads in the vicinity of the waist are extremely steep, that giving access to the E end of the island being called the A1 and having a gradient of about 1:4.
The co-operative club serves excellent meals and drink on the harbour, and Cotter’s Bar is also located here. There is a third wee pub up at the waist. A fourth, modern pub, Danny Mike’s, has been built just S of the waist, and excellent food may be had from breakfast to dinner time.
"Dún an Óir" (Gold Fort) is the mediaeval castle on the projecting headland just WSW of the North Harbour. On private land, it was once an influential affair under the O’Driscolls, who ruled locally. The Spanish came in 1601 under Don Juan del Aquila. After the defeat of Gaelic Ireland in Kinsale that year, the castle, and Ireland generally, not to mention the Spanish, fell into decline.
There is the ruin of a lighthouse on the middle summit, which was the main landfall light for ships arriving from America during most of the 19th Century. Its light was too high up, and therefore too often obscured by fog. It was decided, after 100 lives were lost in a shipwreck in 1847, to build a lighthouse on the Fastnet Rock.
Incoming liners long ago passed by the island, and the passengers would toss messages overboard in sealed containers. These were forwarded from the signal station and arrived in London hours before the ship. The islanders were first in Europe to hear of the assassination of Abraham Lincoln.
The island would repay a fortnight’s visit, and the walking repays fitness.
Landing
The main landing is at the beach in the well-sheltered pier in North Harbour, where the ferry comes in. For a fleeting visit, land on the sandy beach, dead ahead of the harbour entrance. For longer visits, consider the remoter mud/shingle beach under the bird observatory in the inner harbour, hard right just inside the harbour entrance.
Should conditions allow, landing is also very sheltered in South Harbour. Land here easiest at the stony beach on the E side, inside the lovely old quay and under the youth hostel at V958-213.
Circumnavigation
A circumnavigation is a committing 15km and requires good conditions and planning. Note particularly that the tidal timings vary at each end of the island. The crux of the trip will always be off Cape Clear itself, W of South Harbour, but Gascanane Sound may provide technical interest also.
Begin and end at North or South Harbour. Landings, as waystops only, may be had on the N side, where roads are shown going down to the sea, near the little rocky island Illauneana (V970-235). Both are stony landings, that to the E being steep also. The landing apparent on the map at V984-230 on the E side is very difficult. It is an exposed, steep slipway, impossible without good conditions and best avoided. There are no landings on the SE side, nor W of South Harbour round to North Harbour.
There is a mighty sea arch at Pointanbullig on the E side of the South Harbour entrance.
Camping
The main camping is a well-appointed campsite at V954-212. For kayakers, this is inconvenient to the North Harbour, involving a long carry past the waist. Better by far is to land in South Harbour, on the W side, under the campsite.
The only possible camping ‘sauvage’ may be had inconveniently, on the N side where roads are shown going down to the sea, near the little rocky island Illauneana (V970-235). Nothing is known as to availability of water.
Hostels
B&B and a hostel may be had at Cotter’s Bar, just above the main pier.
There is an ‘An Oige’ youth hostel at the South Harbour at V958-213. Those landing here will be well rewarded for their extra effort in terms of the welcome, as an outdoor pursuits centre runs from the hostel called ‘Cleire Lasmuigh’ or in the English, ‘Cape Clear Island Outdoors Activity’. Calm conditions are needed to paddle around to this spot.
Birding
At the pier in North Harbour is the Bird Observatory building, like a youth hostel. This (in season) is strictly for birders. The birding season locally is the autumn months of August through to November, so paddlers may be welcome at other times. Even in season, especially for those possessing binoculars and who know a covert from a supercilium, it may be worth asking.
When a new "first" (such as Yellow Bellied Sapsucker or Red Eyed Vireo, to name recent samples) gets reported on the bird grapevine, the island becomes suddenly thronged with highly motivated, intensely competitive individuals. They have all abandoned faraway families and jobs with zero notice, here to see, "tick" and "twitch" on the avian wonder that has dropped in. These people are not dangerous when approached, even when they occur in numbers. However, as they have no interest in those outside their own kind, they will mostly ignore you, so there is little point, and anyway they speak a language all their own.
Because of its extreme SW position, Cape Clear Island is directly in the path of long distance birds and cetaceans gaining and regaining the North Atlantic from all points E and S. Accordingly, Cape Clear is internationally famous for its migrants and vagrants, and virtually nowhere else in the country has as many rarities, and mega-rarities.
Most bird observation is done near the waist and on the W end of the island. Dawn and dusk sea-watching of both birds and cetaceans is done mostly from Blananarragaun at V947-197, which juts out at the extreme S tip of the island. Get there by following a path along the top of the cliffs on the W side of South Harbour. When approaching, it appears inaccessible, but keep your nerve, it is easy enough to scramble out. Morning or evening, this is one spot you will never have to yourself.
The area just behind the Youth Hostel is also a renowned birding spot, especially for the smaller passerines, and much ringing and counting takes place hereabouts. Good birds are seen further E on the island as well, especially on the N side, among the sheltered wooded spots.
Climbing
There is excellent rock climbing on the Bill of Clear, thin, well-protected slabs, and some steeper work, with plenty of scope remaining. These are reported in the ‘New Climbs’ bulletins of the late ‘80s.
Tides
The flood tide arrives at the W end of Cape Clear and runs along the N and S coasts from HW Cobh 0420 to +0150, reaching 2 to 2.5kn. The situation is more complex on the E and W sides.
In the E, the SE flood and the NW ebb each start (much earlier than above) at HW Cobh +0520 and 0055.
In the W, the flood separates at the Bill of Clear (V937-204), which juts out from the N tip of the W side. The N branch is uncomplicated. The S branch sets up heavy confused seas as it continues to Blananarragaun, the point 1.5km to the SE, which juts out from the southern tip. After Blananarragaun, it makes a big eddy anticlockwise around the outer part of South Harbour.
On the ebb, there is a big eddy set up by Blananarragaun, clockwise to the Bill of Clear and back along the cliffs under Cape Clear. Thus, there is always a race off Blananarragaun when the tide is running, and usually a heavy, confused sea state between Blananarragaun and the Bill of Clear. A local paddler is known to have said that he would be concerned that the S/W end of Cape Clear is ‘rather exposed’, that ‘tidal streams can vary’ and ‘generally seem to be going the wrong direction’. This is apparently ‘not a place to be in very bad weather conditions’.
In many places, especially Gascanane Sound, the tide runs fiercely, at up to 3kn, causing dangerous eddies and overfalls, especially near Carrigmore Rocks and Gascanane Rocks in the middle of Gascanane Sound.
Offshore to the mighty Fastnet, the tides run E/W.
Fastnet Rock - Carraig Aonair
V886-163 Sheet 88
Fastnet is remote. It lies about 20km from Baltimore or Schull. It is easiest reached from Cape Clear Island at about half that distance. The rock itself is 24m high and the lighthouse projects way beyond. It is a bleak, desolate place, its buildings all shuttered, its paths narrow, its stairs steep.
A first attempt to build the lighthouse was in cast iron, completed in 1853. It wasn’t a success. In 1899, they began a granite replacement. This was first constructed in Cornwall of numbered blocks, 2,074 of them, weighing 3 - 5 tons each. These were then dismantled, taken to Rock Island, off Crookhaven, and reassembled. Then they were dismantled again, and reassembled again on the Fastnet. This was achieved without fatality, unusually in the Irish experience. The whole task was completed in 1904.
Landing
This is one of the more exposed lighthouse island landings, always subject to surge and scend. Certainly, few enough kayakers get here, because it is remote, but far fewer still go ashore, because to do so is so difficult. Fastnet is on a shallow shelf, always kicking up in the 200m or so around the rock. The landing platform is at the SE corner. Consider sending half the party ashore at a time, for safety. It is said that the steps for landing are proud of the water at LW. This has not been absolutely verified, but if so, it would complicate a slingshot approach to trip planning, where one would leave Cape Clear on the ebb, arrive at the Fastnet at LW and return on the start of the flood.
Tides
In prevailing westerlies, local kayakers agree it is perhaps best to do the whole thing on the flood. This allows one to arrive in plenty of time to land, take photos, and rest before coming ‘home’ on the last of the flood. The flood runs E from HW Cobh -0420 to +0200 over most of the gap between Fastnet and Clear. However, near the rock itself, it swerves towards the S.
Spanish Island
W031-274 Sheet 88
The island is overgrown with difficult vegetation. The main landing spot is on the E side, under the ruined house. This island was obviously once a valued asset, but has now gone to ruin.
On the E side, there is a mangrove swamp type of environment, Aghillaun Pool. It dries out at springs, is isolated, and possesses a primitive feeling. It might be a campsite for refuge in bad westerly weather. There is a sheltered landing in a shallow bay on the E side of the N entrance to Baltimore Harbour.
Aghillaun
W036-283 Sheet 88
A small, interesting satellite of Spanish Island to its NE. Its 3 tors make interesting scrambling. No water or camping.
Sandy Island
W024-276 Sheet 88
Off the N side of Sherkin Island, this 5ha island has no sand. There is an old effort at a slipway on the E side near the old 1960’s style holiday home. The house collects its own rainwater, but has mains electricity. Goat, heather, gorse. Would benefit from more grazing.
The Catalogues
W018-275 Sheet 88
Smaller offshoot of Sandy Island, to its W. Heather and gorse mainly. Many goats.
Land on a small sandy beach on the E side.
Hare Island
W007-277 Sheet 88
This inhabited low-lying island is the biggest in central Roaringwater Bay. It is ‘T’ shaped, with waists both W and S of the junction. The main residential area and fishing port, noted for its quaint bridge, is on the N side of the W waist. The ferry comes in at the extreme E point from Cunnamore Pier at W012-288 on the mainland opposite. Note the steps cut into the solid rock long before the modern pier was constructed.
There is a famous restaurant on the island, the waiting list for which is legendary. Noted for its food being obtained on the island, the restaurant is known as ‘Island Cottage’, phone 028 38102.
Landing
There are landing points at either side of each waist, the best being on either side of the S waist. Of these, the E side probably just wins out, as the island is generally more attractive at its E end. Generally, the W end is more rugged where landings to camp may perhaps be forced for privacy.
The W side of the S waist is a good waystop, as there is fine shelter for picnicking behind a stone wall.
There are two islets on the N side, but the sounds are narrow, and the more easterly dries at springs.
Tides
Tides run strongly around both sides of the island, flooding SE and ebbing NW, achieving 2kn in springs off the W side, downstream of Anima Rock, halfway across to Calf Island.
Skeam East
V996-290 Sheet 88
A most attractive, tall, conifer-topped island. Goats and cows graze, and there are ruined stone farmhouses. The island is interesting, varied, and attractive. There is a seaarch in the SW. Generally a lovely island.
Landing and camping
There are landing places either side of the central EW waist, on sheltered beaches, (sandy W and pebbly E). There are idyllic campsites just above both. There is a small, remote pebble beach on the SW with good camping. No water found, anywhere.
Tides flood generally E and S around the island, the ebb reversing the process.
Skeam West
V985-287 Sheet 88
This EW lying island, NW of Hare, is also waisted EW. Coming from the NW (Schull) direction, there is a prominent wall, a slab, and some deep cuts, seen along the N side. The W end of the waist is not at all obvious, but is to be found at about the position of the wall. Here a sheltered pebble beach leads onto a rough longgrass campsite.
A landing may be had also at the slab, in a deep cut, typical of this island.
On the E side of the waist, opposite Skeam East, is another sheltered pebble beach, below refurbished, stone holiday houses. Here water perhaps may be had in summer.
The island is ungrazed and so is unattractive to most passing campers.
Tides flood generally E and S around the island, the ebb reversing the process. There is the ruin of a church.
Calf Island (East)
V970-269 Sheet 88
The low-lying Calf Islands occupy the most central position in the whole bay. Hares are said to roam free on all three islands. Calf Island East is the most attractive of the three Calf islands.
There is a holiday house by the deep cut into the S side. Residents may therefore appear, but unlikely perhaps. Behind the cut is a brackish lake, where grazing cows congregate. Camp at the cut.
Camp elsewhere, particularly on the E side where there are many attractive little beaches backed by dunes. The most attractive of these is in the N. There is also a splendid, similar campsite on the W end of the N side.
Lesser Black-backed Gull.
Calf Island (Middle)
V954-258 Sheet 88
The central Calf Island is grazed by cows, and is a most attractive island with abandoned houses in the middle. There are pebble beaches for landing in the middle/W sound. A noted feature of the island is the wall building between the fields, very toothy, very dramatic. Lesser Black-backed Gull.
Calf Island (West)
V949-256 Sheet 88
The W island is overgrown. It has no real beach, and perhaps there is a connection with Calf Island Middle. There are abandoned houses in the middle. Landing is in the sheltered part of the sound. Local paddlers prefer this of the three Calf islands for single overnight trips.
Carthy’s Islands
V954-280 Sheet 88
A scattered group of little islands. Only the largest, westerly island has easy, all-weather landing, onto stony beaches in cuts on the E side. These should be chosen according to tide height. These islands make a pretty group. They also make a strategically placed waystop for any tour of Roaringwater Bay, particularly one based out of Schull.
Both Common and Grey Seal are present. Lesser Black-backed Gull.
Mannin Beg
W019-328 Sheet 88
The smallest of the four small islands tucked into the far NE corner of Roaringwater Bay proper, Mannin Beg is nevertheless known worldwide for its Norman castle restored for modern living at great expense by actors Jeremy Irons and Sinead Cusack. Such buildings were always built of stone, which is not necessarily a weathertight arrangement. The owners plastered the external walls top to bottom. Whatever interaction took place between the old stone and the modern plaster, and there are many theories to be had on the subject, it is really not known how it all ended up the colour it did. Certainly it cannot have been intentional. At first a violent pinkish red, it has now faded in 2006 after a few years to a rusty orange.
The parts of the island not covered by the castle and its ramparts have been planted with mixed forestry, and the conifers are faring better.
There is road access to the island on the NE side, but kayakers will manage passage under it at all stages of the tide. There is a pontoon arrangement by the bridge, on the island side.
There is no obvious access point to this corner of the bay and certainly a quay up towards Ballydehob at W005-341 is awkward even for one car and not recommended.
Mannin Island
W015-324 Sheet 88
Largest and most central of this group, Mannin is given over to the wild. Grass, heather, furze and gorse make progress difficult.A small herd of goat in 2006 may make a difference. Beachlet landings in SW and SE.
Illaunahnee
W014-325 Sheet 88
Illaunahnee is also given over to the wild, again with grass, heather, furze and gorse, but also briars. Unattractive. Land S side.
Ardillaun
W013-323 Sheet 88
As small as Mannin Beg, yet the most attractive island of the group. Grass and heather. Sausage shaped and flat on top. Land at E tip in tiny cove.Wonder at the mussel fisheries all around and admire the open and beautiful views.
Horse Island
V976-303 Sheet 88
This EW lying island, just E of Castle Island, is waisted N/S near its W end. A landing may be had N (by a pier) or S (on a beach) of the waist. The island is not grazed by domestic animals of any description. Accordingly, the grass is universally long and unsuitable for camping. Experimental forestation is being conducted, with both deciduous and coniferous trees, even on the highest ground. There are magnificent refurbished stonebuilt houses, one very substantial. They have generated electricity, and their own water supply.
Castle Island
V959-297 Sheet 88
A most attractive island, reached easily from Schull. Sheep graze so the camping and walking is easy. The island is very attractive to explore, being formerly sparsely populated. The boreens are nicely laid out, and the views are excellent. Good value all round. Chough nest, and Peregrine hunt.
The E going flood tide commences at HW Cobh -0605 and the W ebb at HW Cobh +0005, reaching 1.5 kn in Castle Island Channel (on the N side).
Landing and Camping
The obvious landing point is at the beach at the pier under the castle at V959-297. In settled weather, more private and attractive camping may be had at a landing place on the S side of the waist on a beach at V959-296. Best camping of all perhaps, sheltered and with short grass, is by a group of abandoned houses at the extreme NE tip at V965-300. Here a landing may be had either side of a pebble spit. This site may be best for a stay of any duration, being remote from the normal access at the pier. No water found – anywhere, but a plentiful supply has been reported.
Long Island
V920-285 Sheet 88
Landing and camping
The main landing to this inhabited island is midway along its N (sheltered, landward) side opposite the mainland, on a beach inside the pier.
The main habitation is in this area. There is more habitation further W. Further W again, the island is waisted N/S. On both sides of the waist, there are beaches and attractive camping sites. That on the S is less obvious as it is in a hidden and sheltered cove. Just further W of the waist, on the sheltered N side, is the wildest camping site. It is in a cove near the western tip of the island. Water is in the houses, and may be elsewhere.
The island is best known for its lighthouse (white tower) at its eastern end, with landing steps, marking the entrance to Schull Harbour.
A significant interest on this island is how they get livestock to and from the mainland. They tow them. One boat tows another, and the towed boat has the cow attached to its stern, held fast. In more leisurely days, the cows swam the channel.
Coney Island
V908-288 Sheet 88
On the E side of the mouth of Croagh Bay, a small, ungrazed, privately owned island with a refurbished holiday home. Beaches on NE and SE tips and on the W side.
Goat Island (Beg)
V888-269 Sheet 88
The smaller Goat Island is extremely difficult to land on. It has a white conical marker on its seaward, southerly tip. A deep-water landing may be had in the channel with a most exposed scramble up a ramp on a slab of rock. Alternatively, perhaps on a very good day, landing may be made elsewhere.
Goat Island (Mór)
V893-274 Sheet 88
The main Goat Island is ‘L’ shaped and has a ruined cottage and lazy beds on the eastern leg. Fences suggest recent grazing. Certainly, despite the lack of obvious grazing, in the summer of 95 the island was not overgrown. It was really quite inviting, a most attractive island. A deep-water landing may be had onto a natural but steep-sloping ramp at the E tip, just S of a prominent sea arch. At the join of the ‘L’, there is a sea arch where, except at the highest tides, there is a sand bank in the middle, but no reasonable access to the interior.
Dunmanus Bay
Carbery Island
V845-357 Sheet 88
The largest of the group of islands nestling in against the S shore of the bay, about halfway down. This island is the only one of the group with a dwelling. It was privately owned by an Englishman in 2001, who reputedly used it for a fortnight or so in August each year. The house is beautiful, built to a very high specification, in local stone and aged pitch pine. It has its own generator, deep well, and septic tank. The island suffers for being ungrazed and is thus given over universally to long grass, gorse, and heather.
Landing
Land at a beach below the house midway on the E side. Here a pontoon has been thoughtfully provided. No water is available to casual passers-by. Camping is not easy because of long grass. Respect the privacy of the owner at all times.
Cold Island
V852-359 Sheet 88
The remotest and smallest of the group, to the ENE of Carbery, an ungrazed lump of remote grass and rock. Known locally for its seal population, there is also a strong roosting colony of Sandwich Tern. No water. No camping. Land at a sandy beachlet at the E end of a cut, which almost severs the island from an area of rock to its N.
Furze Island
V853-354 Sheet 88
An inappropriately named island in the middle of the group, this pleasant grassy island benefits enormously from the grazing of just a couple of cows. Almost as large as Carbery, one may camp almost anywhere. Land at the NE tip onto shingle and boulder. Cows need water so water there must be, but none has been found, yet. Many seals off the NE.
Horse Island
V856-352 Sheet 88
A small member of the group closest to the mainland on the Mizen side, it boasts a large Sally tree (Salix Caprea), most unexpectedly, in the NE corner. Land just below the tree onto a gravel spit that, at LW, separates the island from an off-lying rock. Alternatively, land at the head of a deep inlet at the same point. Ungrazed. No water. No camping.
Bantry Bay
It is a feature of many of the smaller inner-Bantry Bay islands that surround Whiddy is that landing often isn’t difficult, but further progress inland can be very much so, mostly because of wraparound raised mud cliffs, but also for sheer overgrowth, and often for both.
Embarkation
The handiest put in point for Whiddy and its satellites is undoubtedly at the slipway V983-482, on the road W out of Bantry town, just by the graveyard. There is good parking and easy launching at a slipway and gravel beach. Note in particular that the ferry pier in Bantry 1km E can be very busy, though it does have toilets and water.
History of the area
A major pilchard fishery flourished until late in the 1700s. It is estimated that over 3,000 were engaged in that industry at its height. Just as when the Donegal herring fishery collapsed suddenly at much the same time, the devastation to the local economy was horrendous. Unlike pilchards, most other fishing is seasonal, and relatively small time.
The major modern historical event in the history of Bantry was the arrival in the bay in 1798 of a French invasion fleet of 15,000 men organised by Wolfe Tone. However, like a previous French effort a century earlier, this invasion took place in December, which was bad timing. The weather turned into a full blown storm from the NE. Some of the French vessels managed to enter the bay and anchor but the weather deteriorated further. The French cut their anchor cables and headed to sea. Had their invasion succeeded, maybe Corkmen would be speaking French to this day?
The redoubt at Reenavanny on Whiddy Island was built 1806/1807 for 100 - 150 men and 8 - 12 guns, to oppose a Napoleonic threat. That Napoleon’s naval capabilities had been utterly destroyed at Traflgar in 1805 didn’t stop the work. No gun was ever fired in anger from any Irish Martello tower or battery of this kind built at that time for that purpose.
From then on Bantry Bay was the main western base for the British Royal Navy, never more so than during the years leading up to the First World War. During the war it was not unusual to see up to forty British warships at anchor in the Bay. No wonder there are fifty two pubs in Bantry.
In September 1918 the US Navy Air Wing established a seaplane base here, at the WSW end of Whiddy Island and it patrolled the area around Fastnet. Five planes were based in Whiddy. The first sinking of a German submarine by an aircraft happened off the mouth of Bantry Bay. With the end of the war the station closed in January 1919.
In 1938 the ports of Ireland including Swilly, Cobh, Berehaven and Bantry Bay were handed back to the State. The sight of dozens of warships in the bay ceased and the economy of the towns and villages around the bay spiralled downwards.
The Whiddy Island Disaster
Whiddy is the site of a large oil terminal constructed in the WSW in 1967 by Gulf Oil. On Monday, January 8, 1979 a French oil tanker, the Betelgeuse, was unloading a cargo of crude oil at the oil terminal when it exploded. The blast and subsequent fire killed 50 people. The facility was subsequently transferred to the Irish government in 1986 after which it has since been used to hold the Irish strategic oil reserve.
During the 1960s, developments in the pattern of oil transportation indicated that it would soon become most economic to move oil between the Middle East and Europe using ultra large crude carrier vessels (ULCCVs). These vessels were so large that they would not be able to enter most of the older ports on the Atlantic Ocean, North Sea or English Channel coasts. Accordingly, it was judged appropriate to build a new oil terminal in Europe capable of handling the largest vessels that were planned.
The intention was that oil coming from the Middle East would be off-loaded at this terminal and then stored for transshipment to European refineries using smaller vessels. The closure of the Suez Canal in 1967 as a result of the Six-Day War reinforced the economic viability of this scheme. Oil shipments had to come round the Cape of Good Hope, thus making redundant the vessel size constraints previously imposed by the canal.
In 1966, Gulf Oil identified Whiddy Island as being the most suitable site in Europe for the new terminal, because it offered a long, sheltered deep-water anchorage, well away from any major population centres and shipping lanes. The terminal was operational by 1969.
The offshore facility was comprised of an island type berth (known colloquially as “the jetty") 488m in length, approximately 396m from the shore of the island. The jetty was capable of accommodating vessels of up to 500,000 metric tons of deadweight (DWT), although no such vessels existed at that time.
The terminal was very successful for the first five years of operation, but then events began to move against it. The Suez Canal reopened and the economics of ULCCVs began to appear less satisfactory. The late 1970s saw a levelling-off in demand for oil as the result of both economic recession and a rise in the price of oil. All these circumstances caused a fall in the utilisation of the terminal to a level below that which had been planned for. Thus, by the late 1970s, Gulf Oil was struggling to maintain the viability of the terminal. The company had been forced to undertake a number of cost saving measures.
Late on 6 January 1979, the Betelgeuse commenced discharging its 114,000 tonnes of crude oil, which was expected to take about 36 hours. Early on Monday, 8 January, a rumbling or cracking noise was heard from the vessel, followed shortly by a huge explosion within its hull. The force of the explosion was seen to blow men from the jetty into the sea. Local residents reported seeing the Betelgeuse engulfed in a ball of fire a few moments later. A series of further explosions followed, breaking the vessel in half. Much of the oil cargo still on board ignited and this generated temperatures estimated to exceed 1,000 °C. The concrete jetty crumbled and firefighters were unable to get near the vessel. The firefighters concentrated their efforts on preventing the fire from spreading to the tanks of the storage farm and on containing the oil spillage. Local families living on the island fled for their lives.
The Betelgeuse sank at her moorings in 30m of water, which largely extinguished the main body of the fire. In spite of this, rescue workers were not able to approach the wreck (some of which was still above water) for two weeks due to clouds of toxic and inflammable gas surrounding it. After two weeks, it was possible to start recovering bodies from the wreck and pumping off the remains of the oil cargo that was still on board.
The Irish government appointed a tribunal to investigate the incident, which took a year to hear evidence and prepare a 480 page report. That seemed extravagant at the time, but more recent Irish legal experiences make it seem a model of efficiency. The report indicated three main factors that had contributed to the incident:
· The poor condition of the Betelgeuse which had been worked hard and was at the end of its service life,
· Incorrect unloading sequences and ballasting, and
· Inadequate and poorly maintained fire fighting and rescue systems both on the vessel and on the jetty.
All the crew on board the ship at the time of the incident (41 in total) are believed to have died, although not all the bodies were found. In addition, one visitor to the ship (an officer's wife) and eight terminal workers were killed. During the salvage operation, the life of a diver was lost.
In 1986, Gulf surrendered its lease on the site to the Irish government. The government used the terminal to hold its strategic oil reserve. Initially, oil movement to and from the terminal was carried out by road. In 1990, at the time of the first Gulf War, an improvised repair was carried out to the jetty to allow an oil tanker to offload at the terminal on a one-off basis. In 1996 an unloading buoy was installed and this has been used since that time.
A memorial sculpture, incorporating the ship's bell which was recovered from the wreck, has been erected in the hillside graveyard close by the embarkation point, overlooking the harbour. The bodies of two unidentified casualties from the incident are interred nearby.
Whiddy Island
V969-495 Sheet 85
Step back in time when you land. Whiddy exists in 1920s time, except for the oil storage facility in the WSW end. With the otherwise exception of a lovely pub (with tennis court) the Bank House at the ferry quayside, the roads and fields are straight from a period film. There is only one really nice swimming place, on a beach to the NE at V968-507, but no road goes there. The scale of the mussel fishing on the E side has to be seen to be believed. There seems to be a couple of batteries and forts, redoubts even, also up the NE, but any access seems private. Even the public roads have occasional gates, presumably for convenience driving cattle. There is the impression that if one got to know its ways, Whiddy would open up to the tourist, but all in all the day-tripper isn’t accommodated the way he might be used to on similar sized islands elsewhere.
A bicycle is a worthwhile asset exploring the island on a day-trip. All the roads are cul-de-sacs so walking would be wearisome eventually. The oil storage is a “must see” with more than a dozen big containers housing the nation’s strategic oil reserves, that constantly vent and groan. The big ships don’t come ashore anymore, so the jetty 300m off the WSW point is redundant and looks like a scene from a post apocalypse movie. The S shore is prettiest, especially around the Kilmore Lakes. Goats.
The island is about 6km long and 2.5km wide. As late as 1880 it had a resident population of around 450, mainly engaged in fishing and small-scale farming. It currently has a permanent resident population of around 20 people, although there are many visitors in the tourist season.
The island is linked to the mainland by the Ocean Star ferry, which runs return trips several times a day, and in summer, cruises around the island are also available.
Landing
Thre main landing spot is at the ferry quayside at Trawnahaha V969-495, on beaches either side. In 2008 there was an artificial beach on the E side, courtesy of Conoco Oil, where a new slipway was put in to take the car ferry that services the oil storage facility. Chance the mussels or chowder at the Bank House, splendid each.
Circumnavigation
Tides flow strongly between the island and Bantry. Going clockwaise probably utilises the prevailing conditions best. Much of the exploring en-route will be on the off shore satellites. Going ashore is possible pretty much at will except for some parts of the long NW facing side. Cusroe V966-485 is a nice sheltered spit. There is a slip at V945-488 opposite the industrial scale pier V943-487, below a quick launch building similar to an RNLI station, only bigger, that probably houses an emergency fire fighting ship. The jetty at V942-494 is to be looked at but kept away from, for fear it would fall on you. The oil demesne extends over a third the way up the outward shore, and the first realistic stop might be at the stony cove V957-499 or V962-505. However these coves, like any W facing cove hereabouts, catch the oil spillages, and are dirty underfoot. Much nicer is the clean NE facing gravel beach at V968-507. Rounding the corner brings the mariner into surely the greatest raft of mussel farms in the country. These appear at first to be an obstacle but it is heartening to see the local yachts sail at breakneck speed through the gaps and channels between them. Altogether the expedition is about 14km.
Rabbit Island
V968-490 Sheet 85
Small agricultural island 500m S for Trawnahaha quay, divided into two fields, each with cattle. There are alder and hawthorn trees sparsely on the NW side. Land on a stony beach at the SW point where a roadway has been broken into the interior, or onto a more benign gravel beach at the W point. Except for this roadway, access to the interior is otherwise entirely and even remarkably impossible.
Lousy Castle Island
V955-484 Sheet 85
Tiny islet, midway along S side of Whiddy, home to Tree Mallow, and breeding Cormorant and Herring Gull. A stone wall on the S and N sides intrigue, but it seems unlikely there was ever a castle here, unless the builders really were pretty awful. Land on the E side onto sloping shelves.
Gerane East
V935-485 Sheet 85
The highest and largest of three rocks 500+m off the aptly named Whiddy Point West. Geranes West and Middle also boast Grey Seal, but given their heights above HW, all breeding is probably done on Gerane East. In July 2008 there were several pups, so care is needed not to distress or disrupt. Shag also breed. Pleasant. Great viewpoint for “the jetty” to the NE. Land easily onto shelves on the SE side.
The man-built now-redundant concrete offshore oil-landing facility (known colloquially as “the jetty") 488m in length, looks like a scene from a post-Holocaust movie, having been destroyed by fire and expolsion in 1979. In the 1960s it was built to very future-proof specifications, being capable of accommodating vessels of up to 500,000 metric tons of deadweight (DWT), although no such vessels existed anywhere in the world when it was built.
Horse Island
V985-507 Sheet 85
Small grassless islet among the mussel farms, 1km ESE of Whiddy Point East. The summit is of round boulders that must be awash at times. Land almost anywhere onto rocks, to choice.
Hog Island
V979-503 Sheet 85
1km S of Whiddy Point East. The interior is entirely inaccessible to ordinary mortals, being one hundred percent surrounded by unscaleable cliffs composed of rubble and sub-soil. Land at SE or anywhere. A candidate for Ireland’s least inviting island ?
Chapel Island
V980-497 Sheet 85
1.5km N of the embarkation point. A large twin island, the interior of the smaller W half is accessible. There are the remains of a cottage in the dip between the two halves, on the W side. There are that many rabbits about the W end that tripping in a burrow is a potential danger. The whole W half is overrun with ragweeds. There is also slight evidence of ancient lazybeds. Two horses grazed in 2008. Very pleasant.
The bigger E half is inaccessible. A pedestrian access was forced at one time at the narrow prow leading from the dip, but it has eroded so much that it is now dangerous. Consequently, the interior has gone back to the wild, and holds no apparent interest for the recreational user.
Land easily either side of the dip onto gravely beaches. No water found.
Glengarriff Harbour
A pleasant, sheltered spot for an excursion on a short or windy day. It is interesting to dodge in and out among the smaller rocks and islands of the bay, trying not to disturb seals and other wildlife, admiring the posh houses and boats, goats, and generally luxuriant landscape. Some of the islets are individually mentioned. Note the warnings on visiting Garinish. Do not disturb the seals. Local boats bring tourists to view the seals so any messing about is less than appreciated. The local boats can phut-phut up to within a few feet of the seals and be ignored. Familiarity breeds contempt. Kayaks, being unfamiliar, are held in high esteem by the seals, who panic on sight. Otter are reported, and terns. Camping is neither appropriate nor welcomed, nor was it found.
Embarkation
Probably easiest from a sheltered pier and slip about 1km S of Glengarriff where the Castletown Bearhaven road meets the sea at a spot called locally ‘Ellen’s Rock’ at V925-552. Smaller ferries than those from Glengarriff ply from here, and the landing spot on Garinish can be seen 1km to the E.
Garinish Island - Ilnacullin
V934-550 Sheet 85
The island is State owned and much visited for its Italian gardens. The gardens are open in summer from about 11.00 to 5.30. There is a Martello Tower on the summit almost obscured by the trees of the plantation. Unusually, its sides are vertical. It boasts of being the first such tower on the Irish coast, which, if so, was by a whisker. Superb to visit by kayak or ferry. Expect a race at the SW tip, where the sea is shallow.
Landing
To avoid serious upset, land only at the official landing point, midway on the N side, in a shallow cove. There is a stony beach at LW, and otherwise a slip. There is also a pier, a cafe, and a turnstile through which pay to enter. There is a boathouse in a cut in the NE side and a slip nearby at V936-550, servicing the restricted (private residence) part of the island. There are shingle beaches either side of the Yellow Rocks off the S side.
Bark Island
V937-560 Sheet 85
Rhododendron and fern saturated, a small, humpy island, ESE of Glengarriff town. Land either side of prominent waist. The island has nothing to recommend it to kayakers though it is a significant navigational marker for visiting yachts.
Murphy’s Island - Garranboy Island
V943-557 Sheet 85
Fern and Scots Pine covered rocky lump, hard in by the NE shore, inside a prominent mussel farm. Otherwise inconspicuous up against the shore. Of little interest other than it is owned by Maureen O’Hara. Land by the S tip onto rocks.
Garvillaun
V940-551 Sheet 85
Prominent if small island, off the NE side of Garinish, fern and pine covered. It is best not to land at the cut halfway along NW side, as seals inhabit the island. Even more are on its sister rock, Ship Island, just SE. They are a tourist attraction, so please, do not disturb.
Garinish West
V898-503 Sheet 85
Privately owned, small, attractive and well wooded island, lying 200 m off the coast, midway between Glengarriff and Adrigole. It has two formal landings in the SW and NW corners. Both have small pier and steps, but there is also a small stony beach just S of the NW pier, for which kayaks will make. The SW landing is closer to the mainland and would appear to be the more frequently used. Notices are placed at both landings that landing should only be made with permission, so ask locally.The island has a holiday home on its E side which is well screened from view by well planned and maintained gardens and groves of pines. The island has been tastefully planned and laid out with walkways, shrubs, trees and heathers. There is even an irrigation system, fed by gravity tanks centred on the highest part of the island. It appears that the system is linked into the mainland mains-water scheme.
The island and the small quay on the adjacent mainland at V896-504 give good shelter for those on passage, or a useful lunch spot for touring inner Bantry Bay. The quay itself is a well known beauty spot to which many make of a sunny afternoon, signposted Zetland Pier, a lovely place. Parking is plentiful and it is important not to block the pier which is at the hub of a small but bust shrimp fishery.
Sheelane Island
V900-498 Sheet 85
Small rocky island 1km S of Garinish West. Grass, nettles, gorse and a stand of Tree Mallow dominate the vegetation. Its summit has an interesting old stone built navigation mark, one of several on prominent points to be seen on the approaches to Glengarriff Harbour. Landing is onto rocky shelves which are difficult in any swell.
Orthan’s Island
V810-490 Sheet 84
Central to the beautiful and well sheltered Adrigole Harbour and lying under Hungry Hill, this is a small grass and ferns covered rock, ideal for picnicking of a summer’s afternoon. On rocks all about may be found seals. Access is easiest from the West Cork Sailing Centre based at the small slip and pier just E at V814-492. The centre welcomes smaller parties as the parking is limited. “Sit on Top” kayaks and Canadian style canoes may be hired, suitable for exploring the bay – www.westcorksailing.com.
Roancarrigmore
V792-459 Sheet 84
This is a low-lying lighthouse island, located 2km E of Lonehort Point on Bear Island, dominated by its large and impressive lighthouse buildings complex. Views all round are superb because of the island’s position. It is well worth the visit.
Embarkation
Set out from a very private little pier with a gravel beach beside, 2km to the N at V793-477. The pier is itself a lovely place. It is poorly signposted off the main road and care is needed, to avoid frustrating to-ing anf fro-ing. The road from the N is a cul-de-sac, despite Sheet 84.
Landing
The traditional landing is onto a pier with steps on its N flank, which can be difficult for kayakers in that the steps are narrow and very prone to Atlantic swell. In calm conditions a landing is also possible onto rock shelves either side of the main pier, but at about HW, it is probably best into a narrow cut just NE. Here a narrow gap allows access into a small pool and a relatively easy landing.
Lighthouse Complex
The exposure of the lighthouse compound to the elements becomes apparent almost immediately as one takes in the height of the protective wall running along the S and SW flank. Within the SW orientated enclosure, there is the feel of a walled garden, there are stands of Tree Mallow and other marine plants, and remnants of some old gardens can be seen. A walkway leads to the helipad and beyond that the SW wall.
Fauna
The island has a good breeding population of gulls, while small numbers of Curlew, Oystercatcher, Turnstone and Common Seal can be found during the winter months.
Camping
Camping is possible in the main enclosure, although perhaps not in the breeding season - March through July, as this is the main area. No water found.
Film
Roancarrig More and Beg are included in the film set for the Neal Jordan’s latest spectacular film “Ondine”, about a mermaid who falls in love with Colin Farrell, filmed in late summer 2008.
Roancarrigbeg
V788-465 Sheet 84
This small low-lying rocky islet is surrounded by outlying reefs and shoals. It lies 0.5km NNW of Roancarrigmore and, as of July 2008, was dominated by the remains of a wreck, which, when viewed from a distance, gives this otherwise flat rock an interesting perspective.
Ghost Ship
Stranger than any Neal Jordan film about any mermaid on a rock is the true story of the 27 year old Spanish fishing vessel Nuestra Senora de Gardotza, the wreck that now deteriorates year by year on this rock. Having died in heavy seas on 30th January 1990, the wreck was at first nothing more than an eyesore, until it became famous 10 years later in December 2000.
Another Spanish fishing vessel, called the Zorro Zaurre, got into difficulties after the vessel sprang a leak with 13 crew on board, 140 miles S of Mizen Head on November 30th 2000. All the crew were airlifted by the RAF to Cornwall. The crew described the ship as being swamped and said they believed it was within an hour of going under. The vessel was abandoned to sink. It didn’t, at least not immediately.
Over a week later, on December 8th the Irish naval ship L.E. Orla was asked to follow up a report that a slight diesel slick and fish boxes had been seen in Bantry Bay, to the E of Castletownbere. A Naval Service diving team identified the sunken wreck as the Zorro Zaurre, which which had ended up underwater, a mere 400 metres from the Nuestra Senora de Gardotza.
Imagine the shock when it transpired the two were sister ships, same owner, same manufacturer, same hometown in Spain a thousand miles away. The Zorro Zaurre had travelled 160 unguided and unplanned miles, barely floating and in her death throes, to lie forever in a foreign land immediately beside her sister the Nuestra Senora de Gardotza.
Neal Jordan – follow that !
Landing
Land fairly dependably in the NE onto a sheltered stony beach in a lagoon. This is accessed through an obvious break in the shoals but this may not be possible if swell is running high. Timing of a landing into this lagoon is probably best at or about HW. The lagoon is a pleasant surprise, and on a good day, a great place for a swim.
Loughure Island
V789-474 Sheet 84
This medium sized island is located just off the mainland. Landing is onto a stony beach in a well protected and attractive little bay at the NE end of the island. The bay has a hideaway setting, and at HW makes a good picnic/swimming spot for those on passage. Camping is possible just above the beach. However the rest of the island is rough, ungrazed, and quite difficult to explore. The terrain and vegetation cover is not welcoming and the walker is forced to explore the edges only. No water found and no evidence of any previous habitation.
Bear Island - An tOileán Mór
V686-446 Sheet 84
17.2 sq.km. Bear Haven, a natural harbour of naval importance for centuries, separates this massive island from the mainland. The permanent population is about 200. The distinctly mountainous W end of the island, opposite Castletown Bearhaven, is the most convenient to reach. There are many ‘Private’ signs about the W end, but the Beara Way gives access to the interior. Walking on the high ground is lovely, along little-used waymarked trails and the scenery is wonderful. Ardnakinna Lighthouse at V672-423, marking the W entrance to Bear Haven, is very recent, lit in 1965. The only village is towards the E end at Rerrin, where the island is narrowest.
The many guns and fortifications on the island were mostly built as recently as 1910, and some held IRA prisoners during the War of Independence. There are two Martello Towers where there were once four, two having being knocked down for later military building works. The island and its fortifications were held by the British, even after Irish independence, until 1938. They were handed over to the Irish , with other so called ‘Treaty Ports’, Swilly, Cobh and Bantry Bay, after a trade war. This was soon much regretted, when Britain went to immediate and terrible war with Germany. Two 6 inch guns can still be seen at Lonehort Fort, the biggest fort on the island.
Two ferries ply between the mainland and the island. The western ferry is from downtown Castletown Bearhaven. The eastern ferry is from Beal Lough at V717-463, 3km E of the town.
Embarkation and Landing
The harbour of the major fishing town of Castletown Bearhaven is the logical embarkation place. Launch at the slipway at V680-461. The western ferry sets out from here. The pier is one of Nimmo’s. The slip is just opposite the SuperValu supermarket, which is seriously well stocked. Good parking. The grid reference marks the nearest ferry landing point in a small sheltered bay inside the W end, where kayaks may also land.
Tides
Bear Haven is a natural harbour/sound varying from narrow and mountainous at its western entrance, to low and shallow at its eastern end. Tides flow in and out at both ends simultaneously, meeting in the middle. The stronger tides flow through the W entrance, at 2kn, and turbulence may be expected. Tides are not strong otherwise in the sound. At the eastern entrance, they reach 0.5kn. Tides enter and leave much as with local HW/LW, to and from about HW Cobh -0045.
Circumnavigation
There are many interesting spots in the 21km around the island, some of which are listed here, clockwise from the W end.
V674-433 Just inside the narrowest point of the western entrance to Bear Haven, it is reachable by backpacking or paddling. The landing is onto sheltered steps, easily identified inside a large yellow buoy and below a zigzag track. A seriously idyllic camping spot, midge free. Shore fishing. Water nearby.
V677-440 Gun forts (private) at Fort Point, and also just S at V677-435.
V696-447 There are a number of choices for more private camping away from ferries, but for those constrained to use the inside channel, perhaps the nicest would be about 1km E of the western ferry arrival point. Keep away from either ferry as the water is churned up and the swimming unattractive.
V741-443 There is a handy stony beach at a slip just inside Rerrin Bay, on the E side. Rerrin is in the E and the only village on the island. Hereabouts the island is waisted which is most convenient to inspect the conditions outside. The village has restaurants, pubs and other facilities. The eastern ferry leaves from Beal Lough at V717-463 about 3km E of Castletown Bearhaven. The eastern end of the island is by far the prettier, welcoming, and more civilised.
V748-447 E of the eastern ferry is low lying, but there is a super campsite in the shallow bay near two houses, and also elsewhere E of there towards Lonehort Point.
V755-443 Lonehort Harbour lies SW of Lonehort Point. Though storm beaches separate the two, the harbour is the more dependable resting point on a circumnavigation. A bump may be expected at several points along the outside, including Leahern’s Point.
V755-435 Leahern’s Point, sheltering Lonehort harbour.
V739-434 Storm beach at Coosavaud (means ‘Boat Harbour’), E facing, by a slipway.
V721-427 Splendid little cove with a very narrow, S facing entrance, just NE of prominent Greenane Rock, gives great respite. It is better than the nearby and more obvious SW facing cove below houses at V724-428.
V672-423 There is no respite from the above cove until the lighthouse at Ardnakinna Point, but watch for the waterfall at about V712-424, and there are others.
V671-424 Illaundoonagaul, almost an island, has sea arches of the finest variety, which, being inside the entrance, are very inspectable.
Dinish Island
V688-457 Sheet 84
In Bear Haven, sheltering the town, this island is now connected to the mainland by a bridge, and consists entirely of an industrial park, mainly of the heavy marine variety. It is worth the walk around to see the big boats and big machinery. Land anywhere except in the NW sector (facing Castletown Bearhaven) where the main quay is. Sea kayakers might want to camp by the boathouse in the NE corner so as to walk into town, but otherwise of zero interest to small boats.
Minane Island
V695-457 Sheet 84
In Bear Haven, 1km E of Dinish. Small, rough, unmeritorious, flat little island with coniferous plantation hiding old ruins. Land most anywhere that is sheltered.
Turk Island
V742-445 Sheet 84
Located at the eastern entrance to Laurence’s Cove on Bere Island, this is a small, low lying, narrow island. A navigable channel along its SSE flank divides it from Bere Island. Landing is on to a small stony beach in an obvious cut on the N side. The vegetation is ungrazed and is a mixture of rough grasses, furze, heather and bramble. Camping is possible at SW corner on a cushion of deep maritime grasses. No water. Good periwinkle density.
Dursey Island
V506-414 Sheet 84
Huge but sparsely populated island (permanent population of 9) of Great Blasket proportions. It is connected to the mainland by cable car (the only such in Ireland) at Dursey Sound. The Beara Way runs the length of the island - along the main roadway outwards and over the hilltops back. It goes past the signal tower on the summit, and makes for a splendid day’s walk. The main area of habitation is about one third along the island but there is no village as such. There is no beach.
Embarkation
In calm conditions, launching is practical (if a bit awkward) at Dursey Sound, from the pier at V507-418. Certainly, no exploration of the outer parts of the island or the off-lying rocks would be sensible if conditions made launching impossible here. More dependably, there is a magnificent, sheltered strand at the pier and slip at White Strand Quay, in the extreme SW of Allihies Bay, at V523-428.
Landing and Camping
The pier and steep slip at V506-414 are well sheltered, just outside the S entrance to the sound. No water was found nearby but there must be. Camping is possible just SW of the slipway towards an old churchyard. There is no easy landing other than at the slipway. Rock pools just S of the slipway, which form and un-form with the tide, may provide a landing.
Historic
O’Sullivan Bere ruled here until 1601. When gaelic Ireland and its Spanish allies were defeated in the Battle of Kinsale 1601, he famously marched with 1,000 soldiers to Leitrim, to join the remnants of the rebellion, rather than give in. They set out on New Year’s Eve 1601. The hardship endured over 20 days and the courage of the men, live on in folklore to this day. Only a few dozen made it all the way to join O’Rourke of Breffni and Red Hugh O’Donnell of Donegal. It was all in vain, and the rebellion fizzled out in 1607, with the Flight of the Earls. The English destroyed his Dursey castle in 1602 in his absence. He might never have been so well known to posterity but that the great scholar and historian Don Philip O’Sullivan, his nephew and great admirer, was a Dursey man, born in 1590. Don Philip recorded the great feats of his defeated uncle, in Latin. His best known work was Ireland under Elizabeth published in Lisbon 1621.
Tides
The 14km circumnavigation is a challenging experience, and races may be expected off the twin outermost points, and elsewhere as tides and wind dictate. Tides flow up to 4kn in Dursey Sound and constantly boil, especially over a rock in mid-channel, under the cable-car wires. There is usually clapotis at the NE corner of the sound, which kayakers have found to extend 1.5km to Garinish Point to the NE. Beware flukey winds at the N entrance. The flood eddies on both sides of the southern entrance.
Off the outer tip of Dursey lie the Calf, the Heifer, the Cow and the Bull, mighty, remote and challenging rocks. Until recently, no kayaks had landed. Off these, the main tidal streams around Ireland split. One stream heads S through Dursey Sound and on to Cork, Wexford and Dublin. The other heads N to Kerry, Mayo, Donegal and Antrim. The two streams meet again at the Isle of Man. The Bull has a huge lighthouse complex built on it. The Cow has nothing. The Calf has an abandoned stump of a lighthouse.
Tides flood E along both sides of Dursey Island and S through Dursey Sound, from HW Cobh -0500 to +0130. On the flood though, there is extensive eddying in the bay between the S entrance to Dursey Sound and Crow Head to the S.
Illanebeg
V504-410 Sheet 84
A small, sheep-grazed island just SSW of the slipway on Dursey, attached to Dursey except at higher waters and deeply cut from the E, W and S. Despite casual appearances, there are no easy landings possible at any stage of the tide.
The Bull Rock
V406-402 Sheet 84
The Bull lies 4km WNW of Dursey Head, the headland at the outer tip of Dursey Island, itself 6km in length. This remote rock appears from Dursey direction as a mighty pyramid with a lighthouse complex on top. A landing on it by kayak is one of the top dozen or so obvious Irish challenges.
A huge tunnel running E/W splits the Bull. The sides of the tunnel are even and smooth as glass. Navigation of the tunnel is undemanding, and in fact, a landing may be forced on the S side of the W entrance, though it leads nowhere.
The Bull boasts wonderful scenery all round, and is a significant breeding Gannetry, bigger than Saltee, second only to Little Skellig.
Landing
Landing is difficult. There is the standard platform with steps on the S side, at the foot of prominent steps leading vertically up to the lighthouse. However, at LW, the bottom step is a bit high, and rock ledges on either side are subject to much movement of surge and scend. Worst of all though, the spot is vulnerable to a strong sideways current, being entirely exposed. Any mistake will be severely punished. The SE corner of the rock is but a few seconds away, after which a swimmer will be in a full-blooded tide race.
There is a severe landing spot on the S side of the E entrance to the tunnel, just tucked inside the SE corner. This is a gloomy spot, and there is nowhere easy to park a boat once off the water. Conditions on the day may demand this landing be used, if subject less water movement. The vertical band of iron rungs up the sheer wall looks very off-putting, but in fact, there are steps too. The vertical brass rungs lead to a set of steps and one can continue towards the buildings set into the NE face. However another set of rungs that gave access to this area are now cut away. Access can be gained to the area by shimmying up a grass ramp and climbing up the retaining wall on which the buildings are built. The manoeuvre is for people with climbing experience and a steady head, as one is forced out close to the drop over the tunnel. The only paddler known to have managed this move made it a tad safer by carrying a towrope by which she protected herself. Kayakers landing on these “big rocks” are mostly cross-pollinated climbers, know they are taking risks, and most will consider taking a few slings and a bit of rope with them.
Tides
Tides flow strongly past Dursey Head. On the ebb, a distinct line of smooth/rough water stretches unbroken all the way to the Calf, with the run off extending well out towards the Cow. Lea Rock lies just a cable or so off Dursey Head, and considerable turbulence may be expected here, so keep away, between the Rock and the Head. The ebb seems to run from the Head towards the Cow, or a bit N. The flood is the reverse. The flows are very strong off the corners of the outer islands.
Tides flood E along both sides of Dursey Island and S through Dursey Sound, from HW Cobh -0500 to +0130. On the flood though, there is extensive eddying in the bay between the S entrance to Dursey Sound and Crow Head to the S. The flood and ebb at Dursey Head and outside start a little later.
Embarkation
Launch from Dursey Sound or White Strand Quay, as described previously in the Dursey Island section.
SPA
Storm Petrel.
The Cow
V425-397 Sheet 84
Halfway between Dursey Head and the Bull lies the Cow at V425-397. Landing by kayak on the Cow seems impossible for all practical purposes and has never been achieved that is known. The Cow is an inhospitable place. Sheer walls surround it. A mighty sea arch lies off its SE side, and the passage out is challenging. Along the S side of the island lies a thin, offshore rock called Gull Rock, which provides shelter for a rest on passage. Lesser Black-backed Gull.
The Calf
V442-377 Sheet 84
The Calf, 21m high, lies 1.5km SW of Dursey Head, with its off-lying rock, the Heifer, about half its size and height. There is a red iron pillar on the Calf, the stub of a lighthouse destroyed in 1881. Nothing is known of its landability.
Allihies Bay
A truly beautiful place. Stony mountains of remote and rugged appearance back the bay. The village has little more than basic facilities. The main strand and pier at V573-443 below the town is backed by grass, and has a paying campsite. There is a magnificent, sheltered strand at the pier and slip at White Strand Quay in the extreme SW of the bay, at V523-428, where campervans are discouraged.
Long Island
V524-429 Sheet 84
Small grassy sheep-grazed island immediately opposite the popular quay at White Strand Quay in Garinish Bay, in the SW of Allihies Bay. There is a quay opposite the mainland quay and matching sheltered strands. Shore angling is popular off its outer rocks. No water. Nice camping. Obvious put in point for Dursey Island.
Garinish Island
V523-432 Sheet 84
Almost split in two at HW, this island is separated from the mainland except at LW and lies just NW of Long Island, which together form absolute shelter for White Strand Quay. Grazed by sheep. Cliffy on its N side. Possible rock climbing here and on the mainland on Garinish Point at V520-430 to the W.
Blue Islands
V572-462 Sheet 84
The first of four island stops on a beautiful passage around Cod’s Head V544-477 from Allihies V573-443 to Travaud to the NE at V605-486.
A group of (at least) two very low lying rocky islands, with outlying reefs and islets, about 3km ESE of Cod’s Head. Despite their attractive name, the islands barely manage to get their heads above water. They are not nearly as attractive as the Black Rock Islands further WNW, although they do enjoy a similar beautiful location and scenic backdrop. Landing is onto rocky shelves at their NE ends. There are fine rock pools to explore on a good day.
No camping and no water. Turnstone are present, and Oystercatcher may also breed.
Black Rock Islands
V557-470 Sheet 84
An attractive chain of 12-13 rocky islands in a beautiful setting under 2km ESE of Cod’s Head. The islands are small, some little more than islets but taken together merit exploration. All the islands are separated by channels or cuts and provide good kayaking interest. All landings are onto rock shelves. Four of the larger islands are further offshore than the more numerous inshore clusters. The central rocky spines of all four offshore islands run NE/SW, and all support dense colonies of lichens. The most W island, from which the group gets their name, has a large rock pool midway down the island, into which one can kayak at HW. The narrow cut which divides the two central islands of this outer group, is just about navigable, but probably only so at HW. It is barely the width a kayak, and one can easily access both islands by stepping across the gap.
Camping
Camping is just about possible on the most SE island of the larger offshore group. Two of the larger inshore group also have limited camping. Lovely setting, no water. The scenery, backdrop and geology of the area combine to make the area most interesting.
Reenmore Island
V569-487 Sheet 84
A small un-named island located in a cove tucked inside Reenmore Point. The island is narrow, grassy topped, and is in a lovely location, with good views along a beautiful stretch of coast. The deep water landing is onto easy rock shelves. The S side rock architecture is attractive.
Gulls do not breed, despite that the habitat is very suitable, but the island is certainly an occasional roost. A possible holt for a four footed creature the puzzle. Certainly there is enough brackish water for the like.
No drinking water was found, but camping is available, attractive even.
Those paddling between Allihies and Eyeries Bays will notice that there is a hidden valley between the two. Unnamed, it is accessible by road, though private. This valley is famous as the set for the film “Falling for a Dancer”, chosen by Neal Jordan not only for its splendid scenery, but its complete lack of electricity or telephone poles. The film gave the actor Colin Farrell his first great exposure.
Carrigdangin
V591-491 Sheet 84
A small rocky island over 5km ENE of Cod’s Head, separated from the mainland by a narrow but attractive channel that closes at the E end at LW. The S side is a series of slanted rock slabs.
Landing at the base of these slabs is from deep water. Easy access to the summit is available via a ramp from the SW corner, but landing at this point is very subject to surge and scend. It is far easier to force a landing, perhaps by swimming, further E, but from this point it is far more challenging to summit. Certainly, a pair of rock boots, a rope and a few karabiners would be useful. The slabs hereabouts may not be technically difficult, but they are not safe in wet kayaking gear.
There is a Herring Gull breeding colony c.35 pairs on the top and along the N side.
Coulagh (Eyeries) Bay
A beautiful bay of superb scenery that is all the better for being somewhat off the tourism track. Sheltered from all but strong NW winds. There are only basics available in Eyeries village. There is a choice of embarkation points but perhaps the most central and convenient might be the pier below the village. Launch at its sheltered storm beach at V642-514. The pier is 1km NW of the village. Alternatively, there is better parking at the sheltered pier tucked into the NE of the bay at V654-530, one of Nimmo’s, and recently modernised.
Illaunnameanla
V646-528 Sheet 84
Small, ungrazed island, hard in against the N shore of the bay. Many seals. A navigation marker on the We tip is powered by mains electricity delivered above ground. Locally called “Bird Island”. Land on the E side. Nice.
Interestingly, it seems to be a maritime horticultural experimental area. There are many different types of young trees planted.
Eyeries Island
V635-519 Sheet 84
Small, flat, sheep-grazed island with spots of sand on the SE side for landing. Camping maybe, water no. Unattractive.
Inishfarnard
V600-527 Sheet 84
Splendid big lump of a formerly inhabited island, with a fish farm off its SE side. The whole island is attractive to visit, with a distinct ridge, sheep, and abandoned houses and fields. There are many nice cliffs on the N side.
The cave/arch in the small bay at V599-526 is worth a visit especially in good evening light, as sunshine lights up the WNW orientated entrance. The entrance arch at HW is a lovely feature, but a committing passage, being very prone to swell. It leads into a long narrow cavern, which then opens into a blow hole. There is just about enough room to turn a kayak at HW. This feature when viewed from above seems nearly to bisect the SW facing tip of Inishfarnard from the main body of the island, - “Inishfarnard Beg” in the making ?
Landing and Camping
· The main landing for boats is not so convenient for kayaks, as it is a deep-water landing. It is in a cove inside the fish farm on the SE side, at V609-529.
· Better altogether for kayaks is onto a choice of storm beaches, the best of which is at V600-527, in a WSW facing cut on the N side, looking onto Bridaun. There is splendid camping 100m from the beach. Good fishing hereabouts also.
· Landing is possible at various tide levels on the ENE facing side of the waist at V602-526. This is however less convenient, as large blocks make life awkward, though not at HW.
· Another recommended spot for landing is near the E end of the N side in a NW facing cut, onto a storm beach at V607-531, where excellent camping is available after a small scramble.
Water
There must have been a good supply of water at one time. The population was once 24. A search for water on Inishfarnard found quite a bit of seepage water accumulating at the cliff edge directly S of the second most W ruined house. Certainly there is enough for determined campers prepared to dig out a pool.
A newly constructed altar, at least that is what its purpose seems, is now in place amongst the houses in the W village. It is small and discrete. It may be linked to a ceremonial plaque outlining the family history of some of the previous islanders and their links to faraway Butte, Montana. The plaque is fixed to large boulder close to most E houses on way up from main landing.
Shags, Raven, Chough and Snipe all breed.
Bridaun Beg
V596-526 Sheet 84
Bridaun Beg is the inner and smaller of two islets off the W tip of Inishfarnard. A smaller version of and separated from Bridaun and Inishfarnard by narrow cuts which are attractive and interesting. Landing is onto rock shelves easiest on S side, from where an easy accent to the summit. Marvellous views from this and other islands in this group.
Camping is quite possible although a bit of a scramble with gear, and there are better sites available on Inishfarnard. No water found.
In March 2008 there were 60 Turnstone, 45 Oystercatcher, 5 Curlew, and 2 Red Throated Diver. Shags breed in some of the cuts/caves on both islands. A heavy suspicion of rodent on both islands.
Bridaun
V595-524 Sheet 84
Bridaun is the outer and larger of two islets off the W tip of Inishfarnard, separated from Inishfarnard by Bridaun Beg, which is separated from both by narrow cuts on each side. Grass covered but ungrazed.
Bridaun and Bridaun Beg are of interest for their rock scenery, narrow channels and slots. The best feature is located at the southern end of the cut which separates it from Bridaun Beg. Here another cut leads away W under at least three rock arches. The cut is narrow and prone to swell, but is well worth the look. It has not been yet established if one can complete this challenging and committing passage.
Illaunbweeheen
V665-564 Sheet 84
Meaning “Little Yellow Island”, this is the outermost and largest and most pleasant of three long thin offerings in remote Cleanderry Harbour on the NW side of the Beara. The seaward N half is a strip of pleasant grass, grazed by sheep, perfectly suitable for camping. The landward S side is covered in ferns for the most part, but maybe the sheep will make a difference. No soft landings were found but shelves on the lqandward side are perfectly adequate. The inner two islets are not so inviting and are un-named on the OS.
Access
Embarkation is best from Cuas Quay 2.5km ENE at V686-572 named for the beautiful cave system Coosmore 200m NW. Road access to Cleanderry Harbour is awesomely steep and there is little or no parking at the rugged working area below, and a mussel fishery dominates Cleanderry. Cuas on the other hand is much more easy of road access, the working quay is much less stressed by use, and parking is fine.
Illaunacuiree
V674-567 Sheet 84
Land softly onto a stony beach on either side of a spit jutting out S from the E tip towards an offlying rock. Detached at all stages of the tide. Long and thin, and grassy, yet uninspiring. Access from Cuas Quay ENE.
Kerry
Kenmare River to the Dingle Peninsula
County Kerry
Ardgoom Harbour
This pretty and well sheltered harbour, wooded all along its inner parts, straddles the Cork / Kerry border, about halfway down the N side of the Beara. It is somewhat divided into an inner and outer section by a long spit of land jutting out from its W side called “Cus”. Cus shelters the main embarkation point for the whole bay at the busy working Pallas Pier V703-576. Here there is ample parking for larger groups. The inner bay is much given to mussel fishery. More convenient to the main road is a small slip at V704-563 in the inner SW reaches of the bay, but parking is very limited. Very small parties may prefer Dog’s Point on the outside bay on the W side V702-582, but even a second car would be a challenge. Ardgroom village has most facilities including a wonderful restaurant. There are no put in points on the E or Kerry side at all.
Pig Island
V718-573 Sheet 84
Close by the land at the SE (inner) bay. A raised clump of heather of zero merit. Land at a spit projecting E.
Bird Island
V721-575 Sheet 84
Close by the land at the SE (inner) bay. Heather, grass, gorse, briars, sally trees, reedbeds. Unmeritorious. Land perhaps on landward S side in middle, under the unly clear grassy patch.
Illauneeragh
V717-586 Sheet 84
Unnamed on the OS but named Illauneeragh on the chart, this is a most pleasant island. Sheep grazed, the grass is short, and there is room for half a dozen tents in a sheltered wee hollow in the centre. Reefs jut out westwards in a manner that is highly efficient in catching driftwood. Land at a beach / cove on the S side. Attached on the E side to the mainland at LW via another unnamed islet.
Spanish Island
V744-592 Sheet 84
Spanish Island, consisting of large boulders, is little more than a crescent shaped grass topped stormbeach. It is used as a roosting spot for local bird life and apart from its beautiful backdrop of Caha Mountains has little to attract passers-by. It is surrounded by extensive rafts of Mussel farms, which dominate much of the SE inner area of Kilmakilloge Harbour.
Access from Bunaw Pier at V753-599 at which there is an attractive pub / restaurant, ample parkin, and water for those on passage in the Kenmare River. Also perhaps from a beauty spot 1km WNW from a pretty beach at V743-605
Ormond’s Island
V795-652 Sheet 84
Very pleasant waisted drumlin like island, lying close to the shore. Launch at Coornagillagh Quay V801649 or at LW by a causeway at SE corner. The island consists of two small hills with large meadows edged with furze. Rocky foreshore on N/W sides, but less so on S edge. Small boulder clay cliffs at NW and SW corners add interest for the walker. The more W meadow is much wetter underfoot and contains a mixture of wild semi-natural areas of marsh, blackthorn and gorse. Landings are possible around much of the island but probably the most attractive area is at mid S side under the ruined farmhouse, where also camping is best. Two ruins exist. One is in the waisted area in the middle, and is shown on 0S map. It is set in an attractive copse of silver birch, and was once a fine two storied farmhouse. The second marks a landing spot at the E end. The island is grazed and although no spring was found, a piped water supply exists at gate at SE corner.
Kenmare River Islands
The Dunkerron Islands and the Greenane Islands are a double group situated about 6km W of the lovely Kenmare, on the N side of the main navigational channel up the bay, called the Kenmare River.
Both sets of islands are overgrown, almost to the point of impenetrability, and certainly they are largley ungrazed and unmanaged. That said, the Greenanes are much the more attractive to the passing recreational user for three reasons,
· that the interiors have at least some grass or open spaces, for camping or anything else,
· the foreshores are stonier and definitely the less muddy, and especially at HW,
· the Greenanes have nice narrow creeks and inlets to explore by boat.
In combination, arriving and loitering on the Dunkerrons can cause a heavy penalty escaping again through the extensive glutinous mudflats that appear.
Further, the more SW of the Greenanes are the more open and attractive.
Embarkation
The whole area is best accessed from a lovely stone built pier just off the main Kenmare Sneem road at V858-698, called locally Templenoe Pier, shown on the OS as Assroe or “Eas Rua” in Irish. This translates as “red waterfall”, the name being apt. The water in the stream flowing in here is very rusty, flowing down from red sandstone hills. Oddly, the rock hereabouts is limestone, but the hills above are sandstone This is a popular pier, always on the go with swimmers, holiday makers, anglers and dinghy sailors. There are other piers locally, but public access is less viable. Both island groups are described here anti-clockwise from Templenoe pier.
Fox Island
V865-692 Sheet 85
A small outlier on the NW of the largest island of all locally, Dunkerron West, fully but barely separated, and unremarkable.
Illaunreanageah at V861-697, passed on the way out, is much the more interesting, small, flat, and salt marsh to its tip. Camping should only occur at neaps, as seaweed litters even the highest point.
Dunkerron Island West
V872-691 Sheet 85
Wooded and mostly impenetrable, grazed by horses that are mainly found around the E facing bay on the NW corner at V866-690. Camping is possible where the horses graze, and also at the most attractive part of the whole island, the W end of the narrow isthmus that joins the E/W islands.
Illaunakilla
V874-689 Sheet 85
A small outlier on the SW of Dunkerron East, fully but barely separated, and unremarkable.
Dunkerron Island East
V878-693 Sheet 85
Land at the E point where goats graze and camping is possible if the goats are agreeable. Sheep graze in the SE but the approaches are glutinously as unappealing as is found hereabouts. Blackthorn, Hawthorn, Beech.
Illaunakilla
V853-691 Sheet 85
Most N of the main Greenanes, there is no easily found sign of the house that once was here on the W side. Land in channel on S side.
Cappanacush
V853-688 Sheet 85
Largest of the group, slightly SE of centre, very wooded and overgrown. Brave would be the man that would go looking to find the house marked on the OS map. The SW end is somewhat open, grassy, and certainly attractive. Land either side of W tip.
Greenane
V852-689 Sheet 85
Most central of the group, very wooded and overgrown, but inhabited by goats. The garden around the house in the S has a retaining wall to keep out the tide. Land at house.
Illaungowla
V854-686 Sheet 85
Most S of the Greenane group, and with the most open feeling. Land just NE of WSW tip.
Sneem Harbour Islands
V693-638 Sheet 84
For most of this cluster of islands, launch from a slip at the mouth of the Sneem River. The entire bay between the Iveragh and Beara Peninsulas is called the Kenmare River. The slip is accessed down a 1.5km cul-de-sac off the main Ring of Kerry road. The turn off is about halfway between Sneem and the Parknasilla Hotel. The islands are described in a clockwise tour from the slipway.
The islands listed here and westwards are sandstone.
Illaunslea
V700-637 Sheet 84
Illaunslea dominates the view immediately to the SE of the slipway. A wooded, coniferous, inhabited, somewhat tamed and private island with rhododendrons and seals. Of no apparent interest to the passer-by.
Rossdohan Island
V716-636 Sheet 84
1.5km SE of the slip, Rossdohan is a private, very wooded island, joined to the mainland by a beautiful stonework at the grid-reference in the NE. Launch from nearby Rossdohan Pier V718-637, which is the nearest to which most mortals will approach this haven. Although in multiple ownership, these are powerful and private persons. One might land and camp at the lovely sandy spit opposite the pier, with great views, but for the need for permission.
Under the access bridge runs a beautifull tidal creek, accessible by kayak at even very LW. The area to the S is the more remote, with seals galore. There is a boathouse at V714-629, and a ruined mansion at V714-627.
Brown Island
V716-631 Sheet 84
A small islet on the NE side of Rossdohan, Brown is distinguished for its sandy beach on its N side that is available for bathing above mid-tide, where land. Wooded entirely, it has been planted for effect with fuschia, whitebeam, palm and beech. A narrow channel on the E side separates it from a large area of drying rocks where seals are a-plenty.
Rossmore Island
V756-657 Sheet 84
Joined to the mainland by road, this is a very private island in the sense that, notwithstanding the OS, the road never accesses the seashore anywhere around the island, and the landowners do not encourage visitors. Those who drive onto the island must drive back off. Do not easily stir off the public road.
Those who wish to explore its shoreline can embark from a beautiful quay just off the Ring of Kerry road at V744-656 in the middle of Coongar Harbour.
Inishkeragh
V696-623 Sheet 84
The most NE and most attractive of the three outer islands. Storm beaches, almost joined up, run most of the SE side. There are multiple single tent places. A group could camp on the W side very nicely, which would mean a 100m walk.
Illaunanadan
V694-619 Sheet 84
Middle and least attractive of the three outer islands. Land on NE side. There are places for small tents.
Sherky Island
V690-616 Sheet 84
This is the second largest of all this group, and specifically is the most SW and largest of the group of three outermost islands, Sherky, Illaunanadan and Inishkeragh. Some decrepit houses are being overrun by sheep. No roads. Land at the NE under a prominent house inside the remains of a pier, which was clearly built by Ozymandias, and not by Nimmo.
"I am Ozymandias, king of kings.
Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair."
Percy Bysshe Shelley
There are storm beaches midway along the NE side and at the NE end of the SE side.
In 2006 there had been recent planting of native trees around the ruined houses. The island is worth a walk especially down to SW end where rocky cliffs and geos are attractive. The island is not grazed and is tough going without good footwear.
Inishkeelaghmore
V685-623 Sheet 84
Grass-covered rock, but nice. Deep-water landing onto rocks in a vaguely defined cove towards the W end of the N side. There is an oceanic feel to the island, more than with any of the others in the group. There is a miniature rock climber’s cliff on the S side.
Inishkeelaghbeg at V687-624 is really just a grass-covered rock off its N side.
Illaunleagh
V662-622 Sheet 84
About 500m off the shore. Land onto boulders in the NE-facing cove on the N side. Long grass and even longer ferns mar this once-grazed island. Camping just about possible, but no water. Panoramic. The most westerly of the group. Nice enough.
Carrigavunig at V676-625 is a useful waymark en route to the island. Just a rock.
Garinish Island
V693633 Sheet 84
Lovely wooded, coniferous island with rhododendrons, huge ferns, seals and mussels. It is inhabited, somewhat tamed, and private. The channel to the N is impassable at LW. Many boats anchor in its quiet NE harbour. There are paths winding all over the island, ending at lovely little seating spots, where perhaps to sit and read? The only remote place to land is at an E-facing stone beach on the SE side, midway along the island.
Einaun Island
V690-636 Sheet 84
Wooded, coniferous, rhododendrons, mussels, uninhabited, wild, impassable either side at LW.
Lamb’s Head Group
V525-566 Sheet 84
This group of islands on the SW tip of the Iveragh Peninsula extends over a wide area. It ranges from sheltered islands close inshore in the SE, to Ballinskelligs Bay to the NW. Lamb’s Head itself is central, and is usually visible. The islands may be accessed from a range of points.
The central islands include the biggest and remotest of the whole area, and perhaps may be most easily reached from a working harbour at the end of the road to Lamb’s Head. For campers, this spot is the business - panoramic, sheltered, calm water for swimming, fishing, and a noted rock climbing spot.
Islets off/near Castle Cove
Most of this group of islets off the E side of Castle Cove Bay is reached most easily from the beautiful White Strand at V606-597, 50m off the main Ring of Kerry road, though it could be argued that the easternmost two might be accessed more easily more easterly at V626-610, but which is awkward to drive to, park at, and launch from (the mouth of the little harbour dries), besides the welcome being uncertain..
Illaundrane
V630-606 Sheet 84
1km long and surprisingle chunky island lying less than 300m off the coast.
Landing is best at several small shingle beaches along N side. Grazed by cattle in 2008 and several wet flashes midway along N edge near an old ruined building suggested water available although not confirmed, and similarly a small lake in the SW. Attractive island of heather, furze and bracken, whose hidden hollows and little valleys provide interest for the walker. Camping at any of the landings. Otters and Common Seals are present on all the islands hereabouts. The channel separating Carrigdrane from Illaundrane at the latter’s NE corner narrows to kayak-width at times of spring LW.
Leahcarrig
V626-603 Sheet 84
Small outlying minature version of its bigger neighbour Illaundrane. Leahcarrig is primarily a waystop island of mixed vegetation principally of heathers and furze, quite pretty in season. Landing on rock shelves at NE end. Camping possible but better available on neighbouring Illaundrane. Ungrazed and no water found. Roosting spot for Great Black Back Gull.
Illaunsillagh
V620-599 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
Almost a double island, being more or less cut in the middle, and certainly cut at HW. The cut provides a shingle beach on its landward-facing, N side. Long grass and gorse, ungrazed, uninhabited. Very close in by the Iveragh shore, the channel is very narrow and seals and mullet play tag in the shallow lagoon. Its merit is in its privacy so close to so much.
No water, no camping.
Illaunacummig
V609-594 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
This is the largest of the group, and centre of its universe. Land at a small beachlet at the NE corner, closest to the mainland. Long grass and gorse. No water. No camping. Few redeeming features.
Illaunakeesha
V611-594 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
Satellite to the ENE of Illaunacummig. Heather and gorse. Land in a cut to the NE.
Daniels Island
V611-592 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
Satellite to the SE of Illaunacummig. Heather and gorse. Land in a cut to the NE. Impenetrable interior.
Illaunnanoon
V607-593 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
Satellite to the WSW of Illaunacummig. By far the nicest of all the White Strand islands. Only partially given to brambles and gorse. Although the rest is long grass, the camping would definitely attract. There is the distinct feel of island and of remoteness. Angling would be attractive off the S side. Purple Loose Strife abound, as well as sallies. Land in a cut at NE.
Cammarna
V605-595 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
Outermost of a fragmented group of islets immediately off the launching place at White Strand. Land at cut in NE. Ring Plover and Turnstone.
The inner fragments of the group may be accessed on foot at most stages of the tide. Paradoxically, these are among the nicest of the islets hereabouts, for a few hours quiet sunbathing, if nothing else. No water, no camping.
Burnt Island
V597-597 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
Barely detached from the mainland at the very middle point of Castle Cove, this is a lovely chunky island. It bears the signs of pedestrian traffic accessing al LWs. The summit is at the S end. A navigation marker at the NW side that lines up with another to the NE to clear offshore reef Carriganglee. Attractive. Sallies.
Leaghillaun
V584-586 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
Lovely but ungrazed and overgrown islet just off a beautiful strand in W Castle Cove. The channel on the W side is deep at all stages of the tide. Rabbits. Land at the beach on the NW side, directly off the beach. Launch from the beach in front of the Derrynane Rowing Club.
Illaunroe
V576-582 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
A large rock frequented by Herring Gull, the views to the W to Caherdaniel are stunning. Deep water landing in the channel on the NE side.
Illaunleama
V577-583 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
A large rock barely off the mainland but circumnavigible at all stages. Some grass on top gives it something of an island feel. Great Black Back Gulls roost.
Illaunnaweelaun
V550-571 Sheet 84
An unexpected wee jewel of a grass and heather covered, ungrazed hump. It is separated from Lamb’s Head to its N by a 50m wide sound, and then by Burned Island at V549-570. Burned Island is barely detached from the land, and is meritless. There will always be a sheltered landing point somewhere along the length of the sound, almost regardless of conditions, onto sloping rocks.
The rock architecture along the S side will, some day, provide magnificent rock climbing. This will be of high calibre on good red sandstone, ‘clean as a whistle’, and of all grades. The hardest and best route would be under the summit itself at 27m. This is the best ‘secret crag’ this writer has seen in many years.
Launch from Rath Strand to its N at V549-578, or more dependably from the huge Wavecrest Caravan Park at V554-581.
Lamb’s Island
V533-561 Sheet 84
This very steep, conical islet is detached from Lamb’s Head to its N by a 50m wide sound. A deep-water landing is possible on the E side of the sound. Here it is just possible, with great care, to scramble to the summit. Perhaps only a frustrated ex-climber would bother. There are lovely views from the top.
Two Headed Island
V514-561 Sheet 84
Grass-covered lump of rock, almost cut in half at a midway waist. On the NW-facing side of the waist is a deep sheltered pool, where a deep-water landing is possible. Beware - the entrance to the pool is narrow and beset by turbulence during big sets. Get your timing right entering and leaving. No water, and no camping. Marvel at the raised storm beach in the middle.
Moylaun Island
V500-563 Sheet 84
Grass covered lump of rock. Sheep were reportedly landed on the eastern side of the NE point, at a ramp inside an almost broken away rock. All of this is uninviting to kayakers. Much commitment would be required. Kayakers might prefer a deep-water landing in the cove on the W side. No water and no camping.
Deenish Island
V469-561 Sheet 84
Lovely 144m high island, well out to sea. There is a fish farm in the bay on the NE side. 17 Chough were counted in one flock on 28th August 1995. Overall, superb.
Landing
There is an easy landing in a cove in the S extremity of the E-facing Deenish Harbour. This is under the prominent house onto a sandy beach. At HW however, the beach is stony. The strand can be hard to see behind boulders at LW.
Tides
Tides run in the sound inside Deenish, reaching 1kn in springs. The flood reunites off the N tip of Deenish causing turbulence locally. They run N with the flood and S with the ebb, to and from HW Cobh -0100.
Camping
Good camping abounds. Water was found in a good well up behind the house.
Scariff Island
V454-560 Sheet 84
This is a huge, 252m high, exposed, mountainous lump of a truly offshore island; it was once inhabited by monks. There is an old oratory, very high up, roughly in the middle. There are the remains of a more recent inhabitation lower down, all on the SE side. Local lore says that the children of the settlement got measles and died, ending the human colonisation of the island.
The undergrowth is mostly quite long, and despite there being no obvious grazing, gorse has not conquered all. Wellingtons are suitable for general exploration of the long grass and ferns of the island, even on the finest days. Reports of good spring water could not be confirmed even though old wells were found.
There is the appearance of a path down along sloping ground to a cove midway along the S side of the island, called Lamb’s Cove. There is a wall down to the head of the cove. This may perhaps have been to facilitate fishing. The Farbregagh (literally - imitation man) at the N tip is a huge sea arch.
Landing
Access is by a relatively sheltered, deep-water landing in a small cove in the NE corner, called Coosaneeve. Here, the monks cut a stairs of splendid steps in the solid rock (as monks did). These are wondrous to behold. They go all the way down to LW, and are hard to see until very close in, so perseverance is recommended. Local information suggests that the water in the cove is calmer on a dropping tide, but the logic for this is obscure.
Tides
Tides run more strongly in the sound between Scariff and Deenish than they do inside Deenish, reaching 1.5kn in springs. On the flood, the tides reunite off the N tip of Deenish causing turbulence locally. They run N with the flood and S with the ebb, to and from HW Cobh -0100.
Abbey Island
V522-583 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
Abbey Island (8ha) is named for the early Christian abbey – Derrynane Abbey - in the NE corner, said to have been founded by Finan. The current ruins though date from the 13th century. This overgrown island is attached to the mainland to the NE by a spit of sand, except at the highest of spring tides or the wickedest of storms. The graveyard attached to the abbey is still in use. Where the island abuts the mainland, there are sandy beaches on each side. To the NW lies the sheltered Derrynane Harbour. To the NE lies Derrynane Bay, with its famous surf beach reaching towards the beautiful Lamb’s Head peninsula. ENE lies the popular holidaymaking village of Caherdaniel. The S and W coasts of Abbey Island are cliffy and give a good bounce most of the time. The W side is indented and interesting.
No water and no camping.
Lamb’s Island
V516-585 Sheet 83 / Sheet 84
Lamb’s Island lies NNW of Abbey Island and is separated from it by the narrowest of deep channels. The channel may dry at the lowest of spring tides. This island combines with Abbey Island to shelter Derrynane Harbour at V517-287. The harbour is used equally by working and pleasure boats, including in summer, a windsurfing and canoeing school. Camping is possible at the outside end of the narrow channel at V516-585, with some privacy despite so many holidaymakers. The beaches are gravel and therefore uninteresting to most tourists. There is a decrepit fish-holding tank at the N end. The SW side is indented and interesting.
Horse Island
V437-644 Sheet 83
A most attractive, formerly-inhabited island just E of Ballinaskelligs Pier (one of Nimmo’s) at V433-644. There are two former dwellings, the lower of which is being restored. The island is high to its SW. The W and S sides of the island are cliffy and give a bouncy circumnavigation under most circumstances. The E side has some intertidal beaches in coves. At least one of these is so obscured as to give a smuggler or piratical feeling. Sea urchins.
Landing and Camping
Land at a mud beach on N side. Behind the upper dwelling, there is a well with good water beside a wall. Camping at beach.
Valencia (or Valentia) Group
V373-730 Sheet 83
Portmagee Bridge is the epicentre of this varied group of islands, ranging from the Skelligs in the SW, to Beginish in the NE and including the mother of the group, Valencia Island itself. Also included is a guide to the coastline from Puffin Island in the SW to Rossbeigh in the NE.
Embarkation
The embarkation place for the south-westerly islands of the group is at Portmagee. Launching is difficult enough, being over weedy flats. This is achieved from the car park at the bridge, from the pier, or further down Portmagee village. The village is a cul-de-sac, which incorporates pubs, restaurants, and a simple grocery shop. The ‘Skellig Experience Interpretive Centre’ (reputedly well worth the visit) is on the island side of the bridge.
Ferries go from Portmagee to Skellig.
Great Skellig
V250-608 Sheet 83
Nothing that the visitor has read or been told about this island, nor even the sight of it from near or far, at dawn or dusk, will prepare one for the reality when one lands.
Monks
Monks inhabited the island from at least the 6th Century. A monastic settlement thrived here through Europe’s Dark Ages. Inhabitation may be much older, as monks were most practical individuals, well capable of adopting, adapting and improving on the practices of those who went before them. Vikings raided here in 823 but got poor return for their efforts. These monks were true ascetics, and there was nothing to rob. The settlement consists of beehive-type huts, built on the very summit. Actually, they are built on the secondary of two such summits, but only a pedant would say so.
Keep clear of the actual summit of the island, which requires climbing. Many have ascended and been unable to descend.
The visitor will be left incredulous at the system of roads and pathways accessing the different parts of the island. Those who conceived and built what is to be seen here wouldn’t remove their caps in the presence of those who built the pyramids.
Marvel at the pathways and walls, the stone staircases, the dwellings, the churches, the sheer drops everywhere. Some parts of the Skellig are very dangerous, and for the avoidance of doubt, there are no shops, facilities of any kind, or toilets. There is definitively no drinking water, despite some literature saying otherwise. The many wells are disused and unclean.
Embarkation
For the kayaker, the Skelligs are a major challenge. They are further out from a landing than any other island dealt with in this guide. Further, there is a serious risk that on arrival, conditions will not be suitable to land. Therefore, the trip should only be undertaken in settled weather. Ideally, choose dead calm conditions. In any event, do not choose wind from the E/NE. Alternatively, those fit enough to turn round and go home again without breaking their journey could try. The journey out is about 20km from Portmagee, or about 3 hours for an average, competent group. Therefore, the level of fitness required across the party should not be underestimated. The Skelligs are thought to be, from certain perspectives, the single most committing paddle in Ireland.
Three launching options present themselves:
1.Portmagee is the normal departure point. The journey is a bit longer, but the put-in or take-out is always dependable. Launching is a bit awkward, being over weedy flats, but manageable.
2.A return journey in only 5 hours is possible from a small beach called Keel in Saint Finan’s Bay at V390-685. This though, is less dependable, as it surfs. It saves half an hour’s paddle, each way, not inconsiderable if the journey has to be done both ways.
3.Also in Saint Finan’s Bay, and 2km closer again, is Boat Cove at V376-686, reached from the road by a 500m track down to a pier and slipway in a small harbour, known locally as Glen Pier. Ferries go from Glen Pier to Skellig.
The problem with launching from anywhere but Portmagee is that, in anything but calm conditions, Saint Finan’s Bay is an inherently hazardous place. There are cliffs for many kilometres either side of the beach and harbour, and the beach is liable to surf. Portmagee offers a calm put-in or take-out at all times, on a main road. Saint Finan’s Bay must therefore be of interest only to those on passage, on holiday in the immediate area, or in exceptionally calm weather. The difference in the journey for those fit enough for the task does not outweigh the logistics involved in finding the right conditions. This applies to going and, particularly, coming back hours later.
Breaking the journey
There is the possibility of reducing the overall commitment level in terms of non-stop kilometres to be travelled. At V345-679, Puffin Island may be landed on, leaving a 13km journey ‘only’. Puffin may be reached from Portmagee at about 7/8km to the NE, or at 4.5km from Keel to the E. Routing via Puffin has the further advantage that it, then Lemon Rocks, then Little Skellig, then Great Skellig, all form one long straight line. Beware, the line is not dead straight, but is very usable. Also, this route crosses the tidal flow at right angles making navigation simpler.
Tides
Between the Skelligs and the coast the tides flood N and ebb S to and from about HW Cobh 0100. They achieve a spring rate midchannel of 1.5kn. Local HW is HW Cobh 0100.
Landing
The landing is on the NE tip of the island, looking across to the Little Skellig. It is a small pier with narrow, steep steps, up which the kayak must awkwardly be carried. These steps areb extremely steep and narrow, but nowadays they do at least have a handrail. Rope work and teamwork may be necessary, especially at LW. The bottom step gets just covered at LWN. So, landing is the more difficult or even impossible around LWS.
Arriving while the tour boats are present (1030 to 1500 hrs. approximately) may greatly increase these problems. They block access to the landing steps when they're alongside the quay. They are though in and out fairly quickly - collecting/delivering, but even so one might have to wait 20 mins or more to land
Two other landings may be possible should conditions dictate, though the universal opinion is that the main quay at the NE is really the only practical landing, except in emergency.
There is a sheltered bay in the SW, where a landing may be forced under the new lighthouse at V246-604, onto a steeply shelving ramp, but which goes nowhere.
There is a much better landing onto disused steps at V247-607 in a deep bay, called Blue Cove, on the NW side. It seems these steps are usable only at HW, so some planning is required. This does though entail a very long and awkward carry with full kayaks up steep and uneven steps to find anywhere to leave them. There are carved steps and a disused pathway up onto the main parts of the island. The present condition of the path is unknown. It is reported that Dúchas intend to improve this path to provide some flexibility. In any event, a waystop is fairly dependable here at HW (HW Cobh 0100).
Camping
Parties day-tripping should leave the mainland early to maximise their day. Overnighting is strongly discouraged in the high season, April - October. The island is under the joint control of Dúchas and the Commissioners of Irish Lights, from whom permission may be sought to overnight. Apply well in advance. Dúchas are refurbishing the Skellig environment generally, as well as excavating archaeologically.
There is nowhere for a tent, and no question of a bivouac anywhere but on the NE pier (the landing spot) itself. The whole question of access policy with regard to the island is very fluid, and nothing should be taken for granted. Arrive well equipped and well victualled, just in case. The reaction of the authorities to your arrival may be influenced by how you, your gear, your attitude and your competence come across. The island is "open" only between about 1000 and 1600. Outside of these hours you won't be allowed off the quay, even if you're tolerated there.
Lighthouse
The lighthouse was commissioned in 1826 and automated in 1987. The light character is 3 white flashes every 10 seconds.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough, Storm Petrel, Leach’s Petrel.
Birds
In the darkest hours of night, the Kittiwake finally go quiet in time for the Manx Shearwater to set up their incomparable cacophony, their hysterical shrieking, their blood curdling
Aag aah mem non
Aag aah mem non
Aag aah mem non
Aag aah mem non
The birds come ashore only for a couple of hours each night during the breeding season. They even spend their winter out in midocean. They call (to use the most neutral term possible) so that their young can identify them and answer back. Where they breed, they breed in huge colonies.
To say there are Puffin on the Great Skellig is an understatement. Nowhere else may the tourist see these crazy birds in Halloween masks in such numbers. They can be seen at close quarters and are easily photographed. Much film is wasted until the visitor slowly realises how really close one may get to these wee creatures. There are also large numbers of Kittiwake and many Storm Petrel.
Washer Woman Rock
V243-600 Sheet 83
Actually a chain of 4 large rocks located about 0.5km SW of Great Skellig, the most W rocks in the Skelligs chain. The “summit” measures about the area of the feet of two average adults. Landing may be forced only in very benign conditions, as the name probably suggests only to older kayakers. Landing here is about as meaningful or as pointless as such landings get. One either gets the point or one doesn’t. This rock is nothing and nowhere on the way to nothing and nowhere, and it is miles from anywhere. Landing surely typifies a certain spirit.
Little Skellig
V270-618 Sheet 83
Very much the support act for its famous neighbour, Little Skellig nevertheless has a character all its own. It is home to seriously vast numbers of Gannet, which inhabit every nonvertical inch of its mighty whitewashed cliffs. Best wear a wide brimmed hat and don’t look up! The island has its own awe-inspiring shape that may have inspired Disney. It is possible, though difficult, and certainly pointless, to effect a landing there. Nobody is going anywhere in this vertical world. There are sea arches also, most of which go nowhere.
Lemon Rocks
V309-637 Sheet 83
Truly an excellent waystop when going to or from the Skelligs, if conditions are really calm. Tides run strongly in the shallows so otherwise keep away.
Puffin Island
V345-679 Sheet 83
A big, high, chunky island at the NW tip of Saint Finan’s Bay, about 5km S of the entrance to Portmagee Channel. The cliffs on all sides are huge, except on the E, where it is difficult to find a flat grassy bit to camp on. The island is split N/S midway along. Puffin, rabbits and seapink abound. This is a lovely, wild, pleasant, ‘must’ of an island.
Landing
Deep-water landings may be had in a number of places but nowhere better than in a sheltered, SE-facing, bouldery cove just S of the narrowest part of Puffin Sound. Tether to ropes left there by local scuba divers and fishermen for lunch stops. There is good clear water at all times in a well-filtered pool to one side, under a waterfall. An easy ramp gives access to the interior.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough, Storm Petrel.
Oats Island
V 346-679 Sheet 83
This is a small rocky islet lying very close to Puffin Island just S of its NE corner. Landing is onto sloping rock platforms on the W side. Scramble to top over large boulders onto grass and sea pinks covered ridge on steep E side. The summit had a single pair of breeding Oystercatcher and Great Black-backed Gulls in June 2008. Good views all round and especially of the boulder strewn landing area on Puffin Island. No water or camping. The narrow cut that separates Oats Island from Puffin Island is not navigable at lower waters.
Flax Island
V346-675 Sheet 83
This is a small rugged island lying just off the SE point of Puffin Island. Landing is onto rock platforms on the E flank. At periods close to half tide a narrow “kayak width” cut leads into a pool that helps landing onto seaweed covered rocks. This pool has reasonable sized mussels in season. The gap that separates Flax Island from Puffin Island is navigable at all stages of the tide but is narrow and both it and the landing area are very prone to surge and swell. A large boomer exits off the E point of Flax Island and is impressive in SW or W seas.
No water or camping but the quick scramble to the summit is worth the views. There were breeding Oystercatcher, Herring Gull and Great Black-backed Gulls present in June 2008.
Coastal Section -
Saint Finan’s Bay to Portmagee
V376-686 to V373-730, Sheet 83
This 9km coastal paddle can be twice that if pottering, especially if one includes a circuit of Puffin Island. Not to do so is to miss out on ‘a magnificent piece of savage marine architecture, with dizzy cliffs carved and eroded by the Atlantic breakers and set at crazy angles by the mighty forces of past geological movements’ – ‘In the Kingdom of Kerry’ by R.Hayward, 1945. Ideally, calm conditions should prevail, to allow paddlers inside the many rocks and islands dotting this stretch. Vertical cliffs in excess of 100m contribute to the sense of exposure and commitment.
Embark at the pier 3km inside Puffin Sound, known locally as Glen Pier at V376-686, where there are some fishing boats and scuba-diver traffic. This has two slipways and lots of parking space, but is exposed to the W. It is also the nearest access point for a paddle to the Skelligs. Before landing, look for a long narrow inlet almost opposite the slipway, which leads to a long low arch with a few openings to the sky - though this wee adventure needs HW.
From Puffin northwards, there is only the ‘savage grandeur of the rock-bound, storm besculptured coast’. The islands - Horse, Long, Short and Black Rocks, guard the entrance to the main Portmagee Channel. Opposite them are a number of deep inlets where landings can be made onto gravel or stones. Much easier landings are to be had onto gravel beaches just inside the headland delimiting the channel proper. Approaching the Portmagee Channel, avoid the fishing boats, and in summer, the numerous Skellig ferries. Land at Portmagee at V373-730.
Long Island
V347-725 Sheet 83
This much-fragmented island lies to the SE (mainland) of the western entrance to Portmagee Channel. The highest part of the island is rocky, and this is the only one of the group which is grazed. No water is evident. An earthen, circular mound is apparent, showing an early Christian site, and an associated killeen, or children’s graveyard. Prominent Bull Rock stands off the W tip. Long channels separate the various parts of the island.
Short Island is separated from Long Island by a cliff-lined, long, narrow channel, and Black Rock is the substantial rock just off Short Island.
Landing
Deep-water landings are easy. One is onto sheltered rocks facing the mainland. If there is no swell, another is possible onto a slab about one third the way down the adjoining narrow channel. This has the more difficult access to the top.
Horse Island
V347-727 Sheet 83
Grazed by sheep, this small grassy island lies just NE of Long Island. The easiest landings face the mainland and Long Island. For the passer-by, this island marks a convenient landing and camping beach on the mainland directly inside it.
Approaching the mainland, look for an obvious cave, which dries, with a small blowhole. After landing, note the warning signs, which restrict access to a major blowhole. The old maps show a tunnel linking the cave to the major blowhole, but which is no longer evident. Deaf Rocks are a string of substantial rocks running alongside and separated from Horse Island.
Valencia (or Valentia) Island
Oileán Dairbhre
V370-730 Sheet 83
Population 700. A large and varied island lying ENE to WSW on the north-western tip of the Iveragh Peninsula. Valencia marks the southern tip of the entrance to Dingle Bay. Inside the island is the flat and sheltered Portmagee Channel, joining Knightstown in the NE to Portmagee in the SW. The piers at Knightstown and nearby Cahirciveen are by Nimmo.
Knightstown is the only town on the island. A ferry runs from here to the mainland opposite at Reenard. Portmagee is a town on the mainland to which the island is connected by a bridge. The bridge opens to allow larger vessels through. The outer parts of the island are 9km or so of committing cliffs, by far the most dramatic of which are at the W end at Bray Head at V327-725. There is only one waystop on the outside section, about halfway along.
History
Footsteps in the rocks belonging to a tiny tetrapod dinosaur were found some years ago and date back to about 360 million years ago. Overhead the NE entrance is Valentia Radio, one of the main coastal radio stations of Ireland. The first transatlantic cable was laid from here to Trinity Bay in Newfoundland, a process that began in 1855. In 1857, the ‘Agamemnon’ was nearly lost in a great storm when the cable snapped, at the edge of the continental shelf, 560km out to sea. Later, in 1859, the ‘Great Eastern’ completed the whole of the task solo. Adjacent to the radio station is an abandoned slate quarry. The slate quarry opened in 1816 and its produce was used in the British House of Commons.
Tides
The tide flooding NE past the island to fill Dingle Bay enters Portmagee Channel from both ends simultaneously, meeting a couple of kilometres E of Portmagee. The flood rises from HW Cobh +0450 to –0135, about half an hour before local HW and LW. Streams reach 2kn at Portmagee itself, and 1.5kn at Knightstown and Fort Point Lighthouse.
Circumnavigation
A circumnavigation is an obvious challenge, being logistics free, but is quite long at 25km or so. Many interesting stops might be made, and there are committing stretches on the outside.
To save effort, these tides should be carefully planned. A suggestion perhaps, presuming ever-present SW winds, is to embark from Portmagee on the last of the ebb. Utilise the slack/early flood up the exposed part of the coast. Then enjoy the full-blooded flood in, to, and past Knightstown, almost home.
Bray Head has a watchtower and huge overhanging cliffs, with fragmented rocks lying off the base with channels between them. NNE from here, reflected waves and strong tides, especially at the protruding points, make for an interesting passage.
The only waystop on the outside part of the island is onto a storm beach at V358-762, tucked inside Shrone Point in an E-facing cove. This is about halfway between Bray Head and Reenadrolaun Point, at the lowest part of this section of the island. It is reachable by boreen if necessary. There is good camping and water may be had in the nearby river. If the journey is broken on Horse or Long Island, just 8km of paddling will reach this point. Nevertheless, the steepest cliffs and strongest tides are in this section so expect to be challenged to some degree.
The cliffs on the E part of the outside are higher, but not as steep, and get a little shelter. Expect a bounce again at Reenadrolaun Point at V384-786, after which the going should ease considerably.
There is a good, sheltered beach just inside Fort Point lighthouse at V404-783, with camping in the grounds, for use in distress only. There is also a less convenient slip outside and W of the point, with better camping but a more awkward landing. Really, those looking to camp in isolation hereabouts would be better to go to nearby Beginish.
Knightstown is a pretty spot, worth visiting. All the island’s facilities are here - pubs, restaurants, dive schools, lifeboat, ferry, harbour, sailing. The channel back to Portmagee has fine views, but should be avoided at LW or with contrary tides.
Illaunloughan
V366-731 Sheet 83
Illaunloughan is a small, low-lying island, about 400m from Portmagee. Deep water separates the island from the nearby mainland near Portmagee on its S side at even the lowest spring tides.
This is an early church site, and the burial place of “children and adult strangers”. There have been comprehensive “digs” and some re-building by overseas research groups. A church and other monuments have been lovingly restored and the whole is well kept and regularly maintained.
There is a stone-lined, spring-fed, holy well on the S side. A few steps lead down to it, and it has a large stone lintel for a roof. Water quality is questionable, due to lack of use.
Launch from a choice of spots. There is a carpark at Portmagee bridge. Parking id difficult at the W end of Portmagee and not recommended. There are a choice of slipways on the Valencia side, the best option really if a group is involved. Land at a shingle beach on the E side. Seals.
Beginish
V424-786 Sheet 83
Inappropriately named, (Beginish translates as ‘Small Island’), this quite large and lovely inhabited island sits in the middle of the ENE entrance to Portmagee Channel. There is a prominent watchtower on top. The residential section is entirely on the western side of the island. The views are idyllic, but are perhaps just a tad too near civilisation.
Archaeological excavations have revealed early field systems. Also revealed is a reasonably preserved semi-submerged dwelling. This has a ramp leading down to the doorway. The ramp is now sand covered. This construction is unique for its time and is accepted as a Viking settlement. It was probably used as a stopping place during sea voyages between Cork and Limerick. Further digs are planned to reveal an expected burial ground. It is thought-provoking to note that, at the end of the 19th Century, there was sand to a depth of seven feet on this side of the island. Erosion, and especially the introduction of rabbits, led to huge loss of sand in about 50 years. This led to the exposure of the Viking settlement. On the southern side, W of the waist, are the remains of an early Church site. Also nearby is a killeen, and a small standing stone with crosses inscribed on both sides.
Camping
The best camping is on the southern side of the E end. Here the island is waisted and the land is machair-like, backed by little hillocks. These have pleasant beaches both sides, sandy on the N and pebbled on the S.
Church Island
V430-786 Sheet 83
Church Island lies just E of Beginish. One may walk to it from Beginish at very LW. Otherwise, land at sheltered rocks on S side. Named for its rectangular church, of which two walls are in ruins. There is also a good circular dwelling. The two buildings are quite obvious. Dúchas attempts at preservation were not very successful. Look for the wall system around the island, which marked all ground inside as consecrated. Only ‘Holy Men’ could sleep inside. A small gap, still visible, on the E side, allowed ‘lay’ people day visits to the Church. There are the remains of a ‘special’ grave on the S side. There is also a water collection hole at the back of the circular building, of suspect quality.
Embark from the N end of a beautiful, sheltered, beach, White Strand at V435-794. Good car park at northern end.
Lambs Island
V420-791 Sheet 83
An ungrazed, small, dull lump of an island, NE of Beginish. No water was found. No camping. Land at a spit in the SE, facing the N beach on Beginish.
Launch from White Strand.
Coastal Section
Reenard Point to Rossbeigh
V434-776 to V645-910, Sheets 83 / 70 / 78
This trip describes the S side of Dingle Bay, from Reenard Point at V434-776, outside Cahersiveen, to Rossbeigh Beach at V645-910, a distance of about 32km. It is a trip of two distinct sections. The first is more remote, with a mountain ridge separating road from sea, with the mountain dropping to the sea in sheer cliff faces. There are two deep inlets on this part, both with sheltered piers.
The second section has numerous stopoff places, and where steep earth and rock banks rise to the main road which parallels the shore, high overhead.
Reenard Point at V433-776 is the easiest embarkation place for car access, being close to the main road. A summer ferry runs from here to Valencia. There is a superb seafood pub on the pier. Alternatively, the beach at White Strand (NE of Church Island at V436-793) can be used. Admire in passing, the extensive beach on NE Beginish.
Rounding Doulus Head at V404-804, next along are Cooncrome (pronounced Coosecrown) Harbour at V444-816 and Coonanna Harbour at V480-842. Both are wide, deep harbours with pier and beach but no other facilities.
The onward trip is just as committing with the next landing about 10km away at Kells Bay at V555-880. Kells Bay is a wide, deep inlet, with a sheltered pier - a noted beach and holiday spot. On the way, look for a stream falling clear to the water, where the cliffs form a bottleneck into which you must go to get under the waterfall. Also on the way, you come to Gull Rocks at V520-873, which are really little islands - sheer, high and close to the cliff-lined land. There is a sense of isolation around them.
Finish at Rossbeigh (or Rossbehy) beach and sand dunes. This is a noted family beach, in parts like a typical machair, with hotel and holiday village. There is even a small sweet shop and chip shop, open during summer. The council maintain public toilets, water, and rubbish collection. They charged €7 per tent per night in 2002. Pitch where you like, except in the football field or tennis courts. Rossbeigh can have decent surf, and the dunes have been mapped for orienteering events. This area has been and remains the meeting ground for all Irish paddlers and surfers for the Christmas/New Year break.
The Dingle Peninsula
Corca Dhuibhne
Coastal Section
Dingle Town to Slea Head
Baile an Daingin go Ceann Sléibhe
Q445-010 to V317-967 Sheet 70
Dingle is a major fishing and tourist town, at the head of a sheltered bay. Embark at the harbour (the pier is by Nimmo) or from a small car park at V453-997, halfway out the harbour on the E side. Paddlers and dolphin watchers have been known to camp near the old tower. There is a path into town from here along the shoreline. If you are a small group, you will have the luxury of being greeted by ‘Fungie’, the local friendly dolphin, an experience not to be missed. However, you must also work your way around the many tour boats trying to spot him.
Only the mouth of Dingle Harbour is narrow, and once inside the bay opens wide. Buoys guide the fishing and yachting craft to the extensive harbour facilities.
The trip to Slea Head is 16km without landings, unless a detour is made into Ventry Harbour - Cuan Fionntrá, halfway along. Hug the cliff line, and in calm water explore the many arches, caves, coves, and stacks.
If visiting Ventry, land at a pier on the south-western side, 1.5km in, at the S end of a sandy beach. In the harbour, there are some fish-farming cages and sometimes basking shark.
Blasket Islands - Na Blascaodaí
Sheet 70
This group of islands, the most westerly, not only in Ireland but in continental Europe, is surely the finest in the country. There is a regular ferry to the Great Blasket only. There is little in the way of anchorages for bigger boats at the outliers, which are also rugged and exposed. Therefore, sea kayakers are privileged to have the finest way to explore the group as a whole. The Blaskets are a showpiece of Irish sea kayaking. That said, among the outliers, only Beginish and Inishvickillane have landings that are in any way dependable. Good conditions are needed elsewhere to avoid having to swim ashore, or worse. Expect to have to work for any landing. The commitment of the group should be consistent.
The islands are uninhabited. Great Blasket was abandoned in 1954. Earlier in the century, 176 people lived there. There was a community here in 1588 when the Armada was about the place. Between 1800 and Irish political independence from Great Britain in 1921, there was always about 150, including on Inis Mhicileain into the 20th century. Inis Tuaisceart, Beiginis and Inis Mhicileain (up to 8) were occupied from time to time, and even Inisnabro had 4 in 1851 after the famine.
The islands did not thrive with independence. There was never the money for a pier. The breakwater erected by charity money on the main island in earlier times never really gave enough shelter, so that except in very fair weather, only very small boats could land. That meant that the island was cut off for long periods when other such islands would not have been. Lack of access to mainland schools, hospitals, churches and shops wore the people down. Then the turf ran out in the 1930s and even keeping warm in winter wasn’t guaranteed.
There was always a single house on Inishvickillane. The Great Blasket now only has summer homes and there is one on Inishvickillane. There is an interpretive centre for the islands on the mainland at Dún Chaoin.
Embarkation
There are several places from which to embark, none of which are easy.
Q314-002 Dún Chaoin Pier, from which the ferry operates, is the logical embarkation place, being sheltered. It has good parking, less than private camping, no water, but the pier is reached by a most unpleasant, steep carry. Launching is off a very steep slipway, or to one side in calm conditions. Group co-operation is often necessary.
Q312-005 There is a small bouldery beach at the end of the laneway past the interpretive centre, which may be suitable for small groups in settled conditions.
Q316-033 Clogher beach has a car park above but can surf with any swell from the W.
V313-981 Coumeenoole or Slea Head beach lies almost 1.5km N of Slea Head itself, tucked inside Dunmore Head (V302-980). It gives a shorter trip. It often surfs, yet has merit for embarkation. With N winds, or when calm, it is very much the preferred option. The carry is better than the pier at Dún Chaoin, and the parking is excellent.
Tides
Tides in the Blasket Sound - An Bealach, and elsewhere through the islands, flood N and ebb S, twisting with the channels. An exception is the channel between Inishnabro - Inis na Bró and Inishvickillane - Inis Mhicileáin, in which the flow is always W. The tide races in the sounds, including Blasket Sound, have a fierce reputation. The N-going flood starts at about Cobh HW +0430 and the S-going ebb at 0130. Local HW and LW are about Cobh 0110, so the streams turn about half an hour ahead of the local HW and LW. The stream timings are affected by strong winds. In particular, sustained southerlies make the flood run for longer and stronger.
The speed of the tidal streams in the main channels varies, but is generally 1 3kn. In the narrower channels, in springs, the stream can reach up to 4kn, except between Inishnabro and Inishvickillane, where it is always weak.
In Blasket Sound, the N-making flood rushes past Dunmore Head - An Dún Mór, at V302-980, and eddies clockwise around Dún Chaoin Bay. Small boats could do worse than follow the example of the ferry, which follows the coast SW almost to Dunmore Head before crossing the sound. In wind, this may also get your boat above the bumpier parts of the tidal race, for a much smoother passage. On the S-making ebb tide, try a more northern route, taking shelter from Beginish.
Beware of reported local magnetic anomalies.
Bibliography
Recommended reading must start with ‘Twenty Years A-Growing’ by Maurice O’Sullivan, translated from the Irish (Fiche Blíain ag Fás),
For a more complete list, add the following:
‘The Islandman’ (An tOileánach) by Tomás O’Criomhtháin
‘Peig’ by Peig Sayers
‘An Old Woman’s Reflections’ by Peig Sayers
‘The Western Island – The Great Blasket’ by Robin Flower
‘ The Blaskets, People and Literature’ by Muiris Mac Conghail
‘Méini - The Blasket Nurse’ by Leslie Matson
‘Letters from the Great Blasket’ by Eibhlís ní Shúilleabháin
‘Island Cross Talk’ by Tomás Ó’Crohán
‘A Pity Youth does not Last’ by Micheál O’Guiheen
‘The Blasket Islands – Next Parish America’ by Joan Stagles
‘Island Home - The Blasket Heritage’ by George Thomson
‘Blasket Memories’ edited by Pádraig Tyers
‘Hungry for Home’ by Cole Morton
‘Blaskets – a Kerry Island Library’ by Muiris MacConghail
SPA
Peregrine, Chough, Storm Petrel, Leach’s Petrel, Barnacle Goose, Greenland White-fronted Goose, Common & Arctic Tern.
The ‘outer four’ Blaskets, Tearaght, Inishtooskert, Inishnabro and Inishvickillane, boast internationally important numbers of breeding Storm Petrel and Manx Shearwater.
The Spanish Armada
The long awaited Spanish Armada sailed through the English Channel in August 1588, but no really decisive battle was fought. The Spanish knew they couldn’t achieve their main aims, and decided to sail home anti-clockwise around Scotland and Ireland. The English left them to it. The weather and the Atlantic would surely do what they had failed to ? They turned left at Fair Isle and left again near Rockall. Sailing South from so far North very few of the sailors had ever experienced, the great fleet broke up and it was each ship for itself. Some ran for land out of hunger and thirst, some got home, and some tried and failed.
It is thought that 26 Spanish Armada ships were wrecked on the Irish coasts in 1588, from the Blaskets in the SW around to Dunluce Head in the NE. The Blaskets is a tale of good and bad fortune.
Vice Admiral Recalde knew the tiny gap between Great Blasket and the reefs / islands to the NE. He had seen this coast before in an expedition in 1580 to put Italian soldiers ashore in Smerwick. He went through first on 14.9.1588 in San Juan followed immediately behind by the frightened but trusting Captain Aramburu in the San Juan Bautista. This has long been regarded as an act of truly superb seamanship, proving the failure of the armada was related to many factors including maybe the quality of its ships, but distinctly not the men who sailed them. The two ships swapped anchors, sent men ashore for water, and then they waited.
On 21.9.1588, a big storm came up, in the middle of which appeared the Santa Maria de la Rosa from the NE. Her anchor held only as long as the tide was flooding N (the wind was from the N, and helped to hold her), but once the tide changed, the wind and tide had her, so she slipped away, and was lost with all hands in less than 2 hours.
Then yet another San Juan Bautista appeared and another small ship. Both were considered spent, were scuttled, and their crews taken aboard the two San Juans. All made it safely back to Spain.
A major contributory factor for the number of ships of the armada wrecked off the Irish coast was the loss to most of them of their main anchors off Calais the month before. The English drifted fire-ships down onto the fleet as it lay anchored, a tried and trusted attack offensive strategy of the day, devastating in the right circumstances. The Spanish were ready for this well known ploy, and slipped anchors to dodge them. Standard operating procedure intended they sail a km or so to one side, and then slip back to retrieve their previous anchorage. However, they all got in each other’s way, and the tides were strong. In their clumsy manoeuvring, a lot of them lost ground they couldn’t make back up. Very few made it back to their main anchor again. The English thought the (expensive) ploy had failed badly, but in fact, it accounted for dozens of Spanish ships, only it took time. Embayed off Scotland or Ireland with only reserve anchors, many ships were lost that would otherwise have made it, as with the Santa Maria de la Rosa.
There were other factors. The ships themselves were mostly too weak for the rigours they experienced. They just weren’t up to the North Atlantic in late Autumn. Battle damage added to the problem, as did the stress on their timbers from firing huge cannons they were never designed for. There was no easy way to calculate longitude in those days, only dead reckoning really, and sometimes going over a week without a sun fix, many were caught out. The maps of the day were inadequate and the sailors mostly just didn’t know Scotland or Ireland. The new Wagenhaer’s Chart was too small a scale, and the older Ortelius showed western Ireland as a straight line coast. Many a ship at dawn was delighted to spy land, but later found itself embayed. Unable to sail to windward, the end was nigh. Usually they anchored at that point but many were short on anchors.
In Scotland if they got ashore they were looked after. Many got safe passage home. Even if the ship returning them had to put into an English port for repairs or for any reason, the English gave them safe passage. The Armada threat was past, and the English were chivalrous. Things were different in Ireland. All of Recalde’s sailors who went ashore for various reasons were put to death. Worse, far worse, would happen elsewhere.
Irish peasants had never seen anything as wealthy as the miserable Spanish sailors they came across on beaches and headlands up and down the west coast. Their natural instincts guided their reactions. Typically they stripped the sailors naked and robbed them of everything. Then by all accounts, other peasants were quite hospitable to them, once they were equally miserable looking.
The English on the other hand had a game plan. Ireland had a new Governor, Lord Fitzwilliam, just three weeks into the job when the first Armada sailors swam ashore in September 1588. He feared that they would make alliances of convenience with local rebel clansmen. That never happened but he never stopped fearing it might. Typically the sailors were challenged and surrendered. Once in captivity they were rigorously interrogated. The wealthy few whose families might ransom them were saved but the rest were put to death, mostly by hanging.
The Great Blasket - An Blascaod Mór
V280-977 Sheet 70
Landing and Camping
Also known as An tOilean Tiar. The status of the island as a National Park and even with World Heritage status, is in 2008 in a state of flux, with litigation and legislation all about. Camping will become illegal. If camping meantime, choose between isolation and convenience/detection. For isolation, land on White Strand –An Trá Bán at V277-980, near the ramp and camp above. More conveniently, land at the unsatisfactory slipway at the pier at V280-977, SE of White Strand. The slip/pier is difficult to make out until close. The pier is somewhat sheltered, but some surge is always present. Even though the landing is slightly more awkward, the carry is shorter from boat to campsite. The camping hereabouts is most convenient among the ruins of the village just above the pier. Water is from a tap high up at the SE end of the village, convenient to the pier, but a longer walk from the beach.
Stressed is a proposal to ban all camping on the island. This was being fought by all right-thinking people. Should that battle be lost, there will undoubtedly be B&B available.
On a day trip, the An Trá Bán at V277-980 beach is much the easier.
There is a splendid cafe for daytime snacking. Rock climbing has been opened up on the island, with a cliff just SW of Gurraun Point at V283-977 (the most E point of the island). Splendid walking tracks run high along both sides of the ridge of the island, like a necklace, giving an excellent circuit. On circumnavigation, tides run strongly at the three corners. The lee side of the island is often subject to fierce downblasts of kattabatic wind. Tides run strongly in Black Sound between Inishnabro and Great Blasket, where the wind can be funnelled and strengthened.
The narrow gap off the northern tip is subject to sudden unexpected surges or boomers as big sets pass. Through this gap go circumnavigators or venturers to the outlying islands. The passage is between a rock off the main island and a small islet at V272-985, being the innermost in a string of such rocks. In an autumn gale in 1588, one of the largest ships of the escaping Spanish Armada entered Blasket Sound and ran safely through this gap. Thus they performed one of history’s most remarkable pieces of seamanship. Two other Armada ships were wrecked locally.
Mice
Great Blasket offers mice with long legs and big mouths. Local lore puts this down to the mice arriving with the Vikings 1,100 years ago, in bales of hay, and what with the sides of the island being steep. Others like to think of Darwinian adaptability, the island being relatively inaccessible to their predators. Either way, they do weigh more and have larger hind-feet.
Seals
Ireland's second largest haul out of atlantic grey seal occurs here each autumn on An Trá Bán. Several hundred seal come here to pup between September and December. The only bigger colony is on Inishkea North in County Mayo.
Inishnabro - Inis na Bró
V212-925 Sheet 70
Landing
Landing is midway on the south-eastern side, in a tiny cove. The entrance to the cove is under a tall narrow arch, into a sheltered pool, open to the sky. The landing is onto boulders, and very much subject to surge and scend, especially in SW winds. The cove runs SW/NE and is unmissable when travelling from the SW, but is hard to see going the other way. The cove is distinctly the tallest along this side, opposite Inishvickillane - Inis Mhicileáin. It is situated just E of the only shallow bay along. Here there are the remains of a stone wall overhead, just visible when close. Scramble up the gully behind. The tall arched entrance is narrow but the pool is wider.
Kayakers with laden boats have found this landing very difficult with any swell running. Inishvickillane - Inis Mhicileáin, is more reliable altogether for those in the outer regions of the Blaskets.
The island looks like it is covered with heather, but this is actually solid Sea Pink on the S side. There are magnificent cliffs on the N. The island is distinctly saddled when seen from N or S. There is a fantastic array of buttresses on the E end. The cliffs of the N side are huge and impressive.
There was always a small community living here and four people are recorded as having lived here in 1851 after the great famine. Certainly there are the remains of a promontory fort at the W end, a clochan, and evidence of cultivation. One version is that the island was intensively cultivated with corn, which was even ground on the island. Another is that Inishnabro was known for its booleying, the summer grazing of cattle from the Great Island. Booleying certainly was a common practice at the time.
Tides
A tide race ebbs SE at the NE corner. Tides run strongly in the sound between Inishnabro and Great Blasket, and the wind can be funnelled. The flow in the sound between Inishnabro and Inishvickillane always flows weakly westwards, being an eddy of the main flow N/S in either direction. Therefore, there is often a lump in the narrow W end of the sound where tides collide.
Inishvickillane - Inis Mhicileáin
V207-916 Sheet 70
The most southerly of the group, this is a very attractive island. On a high plateau lie a holiday home, outhouses, a herd of purebred native Irish Red Deer, and a helipad. The island was owned until June 2006 by a colourful, cultured, popular yet controversial Dublin character. He merited police protection as a retired public figure and valued his privacy. It remains to be seen what access issues will arise in his wake. The house is designed to fit discreetly into the hillside, and is built of local stone and timber. The whole is an example of how these things might be done right. When the owner is present, presumably mostly in August, kayakers should keep below the HW mark.
Below the house lies a cove at the NE corner of the island. Once there was a teleferique system here for uploading material. It is no longer operational, and has been left as an unsightly mess.
Landing
The landing is on the western end of the N side, opposite Inishnabro, just inside the narrows, onto a sheltered semicircular stony beach. This is the most dependable of all outlying landings. The always W-making current in the channel is weak, so the landing is only out of bounds in the severest of relatively rare easterlies. There is a retractable pontoon-landing device at steps on the point just N of the landing beach. The now disused path up from the beach is getting overgrown since the pontoon was installed at the nearby point, but is still manageable.
The island is much talked of in ‘Twenty Years A-Growing’ as a place inhabited by fairies. The outhouse is where O’Sullivan had his rabbits stolen in the dead of night by passing sailors, who left a tin of tobacco in payment. Paddlers may find ‘Mickey the Pillar’ at the western end of the S side at V207-908, and Mickey can also be seen below the ‘Hollow of the Eagles’, the flat stretch of the plateau to the SW. Mickey is a pillar of rock, the top of which looks like a man sitting wearing a wide brimmed hat. Moon Cave is nearby. Circumnavigation is recommended for the spectacular rock scenery.
There was a small community always throughout the 19th century, of up to eight persons.
Tearaght - An Tiaracht
V177-947 Sheet 70
Tearaght is the most westerly and remote of all the Blasket islands. Up to its prominent lighthouse are steps and a funicular railway that appears as a vertical band. From any distance, this looks like an escalator up the face of the conical rock. The island appears as a single pinnacle from E and W, but from N or S it seems to be almost divided into two. A mighty tunnel pierces the col between the two parts.
Landing
There are standard landing platforms, with steps up, in the coves N and S of the arch, both on the E-facing side. There is no current flowing at either steps because the arch is shallow and non-navigable, certainly at LW. Though the swell is continuous, be prepared for a quite manageable, if very wet landing.
The western side, with the lighthouse, is 116m high and the eastern end is 200m high. The eastern side consists of jumbled blocks, which mean that a trip to the summit might be very difficult. Rock fall has damaged some of the paths and great care should be exercised exploring. There are breeding Puffin and Manx -Shearwater.
The Tearaght is among the most committing paddles in Ireland.
Foze Rock Great - An Feo
V152-892 Sheet 70
Even more committing to get to are the Foze Rocks, 6km SSE of the Tearaght, and 5km SE of the gap between Inishvickillane and Inishnabro. It is anecdotally accepted that Kerry paddlers have been out at Great Foze Rock, but it is not known whether they landed. ISKA paddlers landed in 2006. This is probably the most committing paddle in Ireland. It is the most westerly landfall in Europe.
Foze Rock Small
V164-904 Sheet 70
Even more committing to land on is Small Foze Rock, 1km NNE of the Great Foze Rock. A lone paddler landed in 2006 by swimming ashore while her companion minded her kayak nearby. Reportedly, there is always surge and scend here and getting “ashore” conventionally is never an option.
Beginish - Beiginis
V282-988 Sheet 70
Beginish means ‘Small Island’. It is indeed a small island, NE of the Great Blasket, with a ruined house. This was last occupied by Richard O’Carroll, a cattle herdsman who tended cattle on the islands, where the grass was good. The only problem was there was no water. He shipped in the water in barrels every day, in fair weather or foul. He only had to be unlucky once and eventually his luck ran out.
Viking longships used to hide out in the bay between the island and Oileán na nOg Young’s Island to the NNE, where newly weaned lambs were put to grass.
The landing place is onto a relatively sheltered, stony beach on the NW side, but also in shelter in bays on the NE and SE.
Significant numbers of tern - Common, Arctic and a few Roseate.
Inishtooskert - Inis Tuaisceart
Q236-002 Sheet 70
Inishtooskert means ‘Northern Island’. It is a dramatic island with major cliffs on the NW side and a distinct cockscomb shape at NE end.
Landing
Landing is not easy, being onto a severely sloping slab, with little shelter, on the SE side. A handrail up from the top of the slab is visible when close in. There is a sheep pen on the grass above. From further out there is a large obvious dorsal-fin shaped slab, and the landing is just SW of this. Landings may be forced elsewhere in the lee of the island, but beware of steep scrambles. Unloaded, borrowed, plastic boats are an advantage.
The island features a minor monastic ruin at Q234-004, marked St. Brendan’s Oratory, on the only flat section of the island in the SW. In more recent times, it was used as a domestic dwelling. There are fields around it. It is a low-lying, drystone hovel with a smoke hole on top, and a very narrow, low entrance. There is the horrendous story of how Peig and Tomas O’Catahin became stormbound sometime after 1838. Tomas died and Peig could remove his body, which putrified. She resorted to hacking bits off it and throwing them out the smoke hole. When islanders relieved her weeks later, she had become demented, but she later recovered.
The island well repays the effort of landing.
Coastal Section -
Sybil Point to Brandon Point
Ceann Sibéal go Ceann Bhréanain
Q309-060 to Q528-173 Sheet 70
28km of stunning cliffs, broken only by the 2km width of Smerwick Harbour, the waystop at Brandon Creek, and the 1km width of Sauce Creek. It is impossible and pointless to try to land elsewhere. Paddle close to the cliff line to appreciate the waterfalls, caves, arches, and many ‘islands’ of cliff, which merge with the background. The cliffs of the Three Sisters (Triúr Deirfiúir) and Sybil Point at the SW part of the section is a must.
Smerwick Harbour
Cuan Árd na Caithne
Q378-102 Sheet 70
Smerwick has a 2km wide mouth with Dunacapple Island at Q378-102 on the E side. The harbour holds this width for almost 4 southerly km, and is open to the N. Shelter, depending on the wind, can be had by tucking inside either of the ‘arms’. This is very much a tourist area with villages and sandy beaches.
A landing can be forced onto boulders immediately at the W end of the Sisters (about 4km NE of Sybil Point), but cliffs bar any ideas of making it a land escape route.
Brandon Creek - Cuas Bhréanain
Q422-120 Sheet 70
Locally known as Cuas, Brandon Creek is the more westerly of two similar inlets when viewed from the sea. There is safe landing in all weather onto a double slipway. It is the anchorage for the small, local fishing boats. Camping on the pier, or on the small, green area nearby. A river runs alongside but is litter strewn. Limited car parking - be tidy as this is a working pier, and the fishermen load and unload. The pub is 1.5km to the S with phone, food, and shower.
Walking NE to the cliff edge brings spectacular views and eventually joins a recognised track to Brandon Mountain. This creek was the launching point for the leather boat ‘Brendan’, whose epic voyage was led by Tim Severin. They set out to show that, as with the legend, early Irish monks could have sailed to America via Scotland, the Faeroes, and Iceland. Their trip is detailed in the book ‘The Brendan Voyage’ by Tim Severin, an excellent read.
Sauce Creek
Q488-157 Sheet 70
Land onto gravel, or boulder at HW, and sometimes through dumping surf, the SW corner being best. No landward escape route, as there is a very steep scramble through loose, shale gullies onto the mountainside.
Magharee Islands
Oileáin an Mhachaire
Q623-215 Sheet 71
Also known in English as the Seven Hogs - Na Seacht gCeanna, this is a scattered group of (actually about ten) small low islands. Nearby Lough Gill is well known as the stronghold of the Natterjack Toad. They lie on the northern side of the Dingle Peninsula, off Rough Point at the end of the isthmus that divides Brandon Bay from Tralee Bay. The underlying rock is limestone. Basking Shark and Blue Shark are reputed to be common in these waters in the summer months. The area teems with bird and other wildlife.
In Irish, the islands are called Oileáin an Mhachaire. Machair is a coastal feature inside an exposed sandy beach consisting of a raised dune system that has been flattened by grazing. Grazing and wind combine to create and maintain a flat grassy area. There are no raised dunes or the dunes are relatively insignificant to the overall feature. Machair is much loved by birds, (who call it a ‘roost’), by sheep (who call it a ‘meal’), by golfers (who call it a ‘links’), and by tourists (who call it a ‘campsite’). Certainly, its well-drained, short grass is excellent for camping. Once heavily grazed, nowadays its features are orientated more towards leisure pursuits, caravan parks and football pitches. Machairs are most common in the NW of Ireland between about Galway Bay and Malin Head.
Embarkation
Embarkation is from Scraggane Pier (by Nimmo) at Q613-196 just inside the W point of Scraggane Bay. There is a wide, gradually sloping slipway, with good parking, water, and toilets. There are also ample paying campsites generally in the area. A pub and shops can be found at Fahamore, 1km to the SW. The whole Castlegregory peninsula is a thriving mix of varied holiday making. There are endless campsites, houses, schools for diving, windsurfing and all forms of watersport. The area has undergone massive development this millennium.
Tides
The sound is not deep, and can cut up rough, usually when a westerly wind or big swells are against the ebb tide. The Egoing flood tide starts at HW Galway +0505 and the Wgoing ebb starts at HW Galway 0120. It flows at 2 or 3kn in springs. The tide also sweeps strongly through and to the N of the islands.
SPA
Common, Little & Arctic Tern, Chough, Barnacle Goose, and Great Northern Diver (Loon).
Illauntannig
Q623-215 Sheet 71
Illauntannig is the largest and most hospitable of all these islands. It boasts a summer home with outhouses, just in from the beach. It has plastic windows, double glazing, and its own private water collection system. Landing is easy at the steep, sandy beach on the E side, or elsewhere for those who like to scratch and scrape. Camping is most convenient at the landing beach, where shelter can be had behind walls. It is possible to camp almost anywhere else that a landing is made. The W side is the most exposed.
The 6c monastic site reputedly founded by Senach just S of the beach has stone huts and oratories (note, no cement, just corballing at its best) surrounded by a protective stone wall. The complex includes a well-preserved souterrain about 10m in length, leading from a central hut to beyond the outside wall.
The most notable feature of the monastery is the sandstone cross which undoubtedly once stood upon the roof of the main oratory. The bullaun or prayer stone at its foot is in very good condition.
The island is generally quite flat. Numerous Oyster Catcher and Tern (mostly Arctic) nest. Ring Plover.
Reenafardarrig
Q625-217 Sheet 71
Nice grassy islet, just NE of Illauntannig, with landing possible on the sandy S shore opposite Illauntannig. The other sides are rocky. The island is connected to Illauntannig by a bar/reef, crossable on foot at LW. Between tides there are breakers coming through the gap, so that underwater obstructions are a real danger. No water. There is a 3-sided, 1m high sheep shelter on top. Also in 2009 there is some sort of nest-box experimentation, possibly for terns. Ring Plover and Dunlin.
Illaunboe
Q619-218 Sheet 71
Illaunboe is almost but not quite joined to Illauntannig by a reef at LW. Landing is possible on the E side of this reef into a storm beach in a shallow narrow cut. Possible under all but HW / difficult conditions. The other sides have a rocky foreshore. A stony, flattish grassy islet, uninviting.
Illaunturlogh
Q627-213 Sheet 71
Rocky islet 0.5km E of the beach on Illauntannig. Appearing unapproachable from afar, there are in fact numerous landing opportunities, the ease or difficulty of which varies hugely with tide height and conditions. At LW the easiest by far of the landings in onto the beach just NW and under the summit, formed when the gap with the islet Minnaun closes out to make a NW facing horseshoe. Even at HW when this whole configuration disappears, there is a little cut at the back of the beach onto a narrow stormbeach, just below the summit. There are a thousand cuts or narrow slots yielding landings to N & S at almost any time onto this most fragmented islet. The ground is very sharp and abrasive limestone rock, so the nearer to the summit the easier. Shag and Great Black Back Gull.
Mucklaghbeg
Q637-214 Sheet 71
A rocky knoll, 1.5km E of Illauntannig, with plenty of guano and birds. The technical difficulties would make landing ‘interesting’, even in calm weather.
Doonagaun Island
Q615-201 Sheet 71
A grassy knoll with a sandy SE side where a landing is possible. Landing elsewhere is rocky. Doonagaun is passed on the way out to Illauntannig. No water.
A reef stretches to the SW that might catch the unwary, as might shallow ground to the S near the mainland shore. Navigate with care.
Illaunnanoon
Q605-198 Sheet 71
Just off the mainland coast, W of Scraggane Pier, this is a rocky outcrop with grass growing on top. A reef extends SW which is exposed at LW, and landing is possible on the S and SE sides. There is no water and this is not a place to go camping. There is interesting life in the exposed rock pools. Birds, grass, and rock.
Illaunimmil
Q605-221 Sheet 71
A larger member of the group, 2km WNW of Illauntannig. Landing is just possible, in calm weather, by a difficult deep-water landing, onto large boulders. This is a storm beach at a cave just on the sheltered (Efacing) side of the NE tip. There are cliffs all around the island. There is a second cave, midway along the E side, which is really a huge collapsed blowhole. Many Rock Dove nest in the arch overhead.
Inishtooskert
Q601-225 Sheet 71
Just NW off Illaunimmil, the island is surrounded by cliffs and shallow water. The swell builds all round on even the calmest days, breaking on the exposed reefs. Landing would always be very challenging.
Samphire Island
Q729-147 Sheet 71
Situated just off Fenit, a beautiful fishing village 12km W of Tralee. Fenit lies outside the mouth of where the harbour at Blennerville gives way to Tralee Bay outside. Launch from the town beach Q727-154 - Sheet 71, just at the beginning of the bridge to the island. Parking, water and toilets are available at the beach, as is a lovely cafe. All the usual small town facilities are available in Fenit. A major local attraction is Fenit Island (local name) or Fenit Within (OSI name), a beautiful walk N of the town, very popular. The underlying rock is limestone.
Samphire Island has been developed beyond all recognition. Originally a small high rock, it is now joined to the mainland to the N at Fenit village by an 800m bridge. A modern working fishing and manufacturing facility has been built on the island. There is also a marina for pleasure yachts, the RNLI station which launches from the marina, the fishing club and much else. The Sailing Club is on the mainland end of the bridge.
Hazard
Beware paddling under the bridge. Tides run strongly. The worst bit though is that an integral part of the structure of the bridge is a horizontal spar running between all the uprights above LW but at less than HW. No more dangerous a contraption may be imagined. At two thirds tide height it works as a classic sieve, feared by kayakers the world over. Even at other stages of the tide, it is still dangerous, being festooned with nets, fishing hooks, and detritus of all kinds. Keep away.
Approaching the island at road level on foot, one is struck by the statue on the top of the rock. This is Saint Brendan the Navigator 484 – 578, who features at various points around the coast, but who was a native of Fenit. He is best known for being the first European to go to and return from America.
His parents were in an early wave of newly converted Christians in Ireland and he was ordained as a priest in 512 at age 28. He became a bishop and was hyperactive in setting up abbies and monasteries in Ireland and abroad. His missioning was mainly but not exclusively to the N, such as St. Kilda and the Orkneys, but he also worked in Brittany and Normandy. In his travels he also visited the Faroes, Iceland, and Newfoundland. Fenit is still proud of its local boy made good.
The rock that is the original Samphire Island is a theme park on a small scale, with imitation wedge tombs and beehive huts. Well worth the visit. The modern working port area impresses for the scale of what is being manufactured.
Samphire Island Little
Q717-149 Sheet 71
Much the prettier but also much the smaller brother of the two islands, Samphire Island Little is surrounded by open water at all tides, and it has a lighthouse. Very photogenic against the backdrop of the Dingle hills, but first get the right lighting conditions.
Launch from the town beach Q727-154 and pass the swimming club to the right on the way out. Land easily onto seaweed covered slabs anywhere around the NE corner.
The island is sausage shaped and the lighthouse fills almost the entire, but it is possible to walk round the edge. The agile may perhaps manage to trespass but the walls containing the lighthouse gardens are for the most part quite high.
The Mid-West
Shannon Estuary to Galway City -including the Aran Islands
County Kerry
Carrig Island
Q977-486 Sheet 63
The S/SW side of the island is joined to the mainland by a small bridge and a spit of marshy, grassy land, covered only by high spring tides. Carrig also has an inhabited farm and a Napoleonic battery at Q977-486 on the NW. The population is 13.
The major attraction is the well-preserved Carrigafoyle Castle on the SE. The castle is more accessible from the water. Land at HW to avoid mud flats. The castle is a most interesting waystop, not to be missed by the passer-by. Thought to have been impregnable by 16th Century standards, Cromwell wasn’t convinced, and he was proved right.
County Limerick
Foynes Island
R250-521 Sheet 64
Foynes is the Anglicisation of Oileán Fáinghe in Irish, meaning "circular island". It is well named, the island being very round. The island is situated 100m off Foynes village on the main coast road Limerick to Listowel.
Historic
In the days of amphibious planes, Foynes was the centre of the aviation world hereabouts. Being just about as far west in Europe as it is possible to be, that was important in those days. Planes from all over Europe stopped here to begin or end the Atlantic jump. Shannon Airport just across the estuary now fills the role of international airport to the west of Ireland, but with modern aircraft able to fly much longer distances, its role isn't quite as critical. Its very long runway will always deserve it a role as a hub for certain long-haul airflights.
Commercial foresters will find Foynes Island interesting, but others won't be so turned on. It is a lumpy square kilometre of deciduous and coniferous trees. The interior is essentially impenetrable and holds little of interest to passing leisure craft.
Land
The main landing is at a pontoon at the S tip called Barneen Point, opposite the public harbour in the village. This gives access to the few houses on the island and should be considered private. The entire of the rest of the shoreline is accessible at HW but a sea of mud at lower waters. The mud is fine glutinous silt, most unpleasant. Whether extending a handful of metres or one hundred, landing onto it isn't an option. Access can be conveniently achieved at only one other spot, halfway along the SW side at R245-523. Here, rocks come down to the water that are both accessible and mud free.
Otter and Greenshank.
County Clare
Islands of the Fergus Estuary
The Fergus Estuary is a branch of the Shannon Estuary that juts N up towards Ennis, the county town of Clare. It is choked with islands big and small. The boating hereabouts is similar in some ways to Clew Bay and inner Strangford Lough. The big distinguishing factor here though is that this entire system is the upper reaches of an estuary, whereas the others are simply drowned landscape areas.
Mud
Accordingly, while Clew Bay to a small extent and Strangford Lough very much so may be muddy, very muddy, especially in their inner reaches and nooks and crannies, every tiny part of this area is affected by mud. The mud is a fine glutinous silt, quite unpleasant. The silt permeates the water everywhere, and swimming doesn't seem all that attractive. The only parts that suffer less mud are the parts of islands scoured by the main flow, the E side of the many islands on its W side and the W side of the few islands on its E side.
Mudflates
As with all such places, vast areas become extensive mudflats at lower waters, and a heedless moment on a falling tide can carry a heavy penalty. Tides run strongly through the channels, and indeed the tidal range is huge. Nevertheless, even in Springs, the speed of the lateral flow equates to mere neaps in Strangford, despite that the vertical range is much greater.
There is no commercial fishing of any kind done, but there must be flat fish and mullet who love such conditions.
Clew Bay and Strangford are each end of Ireland's drumlin belt, but the islands here have solid limestone bases, not boulders and clay. The land is therefore very rich and fertile. The bigger islands are farmed, mainly cattle and sheep, with some horses and goats. There is no tillage. Nowadays the farmers all live on the mainland nearby. The last full-time island resident (Deer Island) died in August 2004. She was the only female sole inhabitant of an Irish island in the 2002 census, there being three other sole male inhabitants. Farmers hereabouts commute to work on flat bottomed or shallow draft boats, of a kind used in estuaries the world over. They are among the very few Irish farmers that carry tide tables on their persons at all times.
Embarkation
There is really no convenient embarkation point on the E side at all. There are two only on the W side.
Most central is Crovraghan Pier R278-601, a small working pier, busy during the working day. When the tide is suitable, there will be many cars left at the pier by farmers commuting to their islands. It is well sheltered by Illaunbeg 100m offshore, fast deep water filling the channel. A pleasant spot for campervanning. The slipway being steep, the amount of mud to struggle past at LW is limited. It is reached from a signposted crossroads 2km N of Killadysert on the main Ennis road.
To the S, Cahiracon Pier R248-563 may be the more convenient, depending on the excursion plan, especially for the more southerly islands, or an excursion S across the Shannon Estuary. It is reached from just S of Killadysert. Any excursion in the Fergus Estuary is best carried out around HW, and Cahiracon may be preferred for allowing a more comprehensive exploration in the one go.
Tides
HW in the estuary is Galway +0100, slightly ahead of Limerick Docks, which is Galway +0130. The main channel is on the E side, but on the top half of the flood, locals prefer to hug the coast on the W side, inside Illaunbeg and Illaunmore (Deer Island). The ebb and flood occur with the rise and fall of the water. The direction of the flow is basically N/NE for the flood and S/SW for the ebb, but it tends to twist and turn with the channels, and the results are peculiar on occasion (e.g. in the channel NE of Crovraghan Pier). The flow can be very fast and strong at times, but never really all that violent, despite that the rise and fall (range) of the tide is enormous by Irish standards.
The islands are given here more or less from the SW. Inishloe is unapproachable except at HW, difficult to fit in with a planned excursion, so only cursory information is available.
Inishmurry
R252-561 Sheet 64
A bitter acid-boggy island, a place of reeds and rushes and Yellow Flag. There are some Hawthorn. Outside on the SE shore, oysters and mussels grow wild. Its main merit is to serve as a shelter for Cahiracon Pier inside it on the mainland, now much disused.
Inishtubbrid
R279-577 Sheet 64
Smallest of the five larger islands at less than half a square kilometre, it is farmed with cattle. The summit has exposed limestone karst, Burrenesque in an untidy ragged way. Good views N from its lofty summit. Land at the SE for that mud/rock compromise common locally.
Canon Island
R286-581 Sheet 64
Fourth largest island hereabouts, Canon is cattle farmed. It is nearly split in two, being joined by an area of marshy reeds at its narrow waist. The interior of each sector is very wooded, and would need local knowledge to explore. There is an abandoned farmhouse by the landing spot which is at the usual mud / rock compromise at the S end of the W "beach". There is a square tower at the NE end, with an Augustinian friary ruined beside it.
Inishloe
R313-592 Sheet 64
Low lying, small fields, overgrown woods, cattle, extremely muddy all round.
Blackthorn Islands
R323-590 Sheet 64
Very attractive very low lying small triangular islet being a single field of about 3ha. The most significant feature is the 19c dyke built of limestone blocks with no cement all round, to stave off the flooding. The cost benefit analysis at the time must have been interesting. Because it is in the path, almost, of the main flow, the shingle beaches on the N side are relatively mud free.
Doon Island
R281-600 Sheet 64
Tiny pleasant place, the grass under control courtesy of a herd of goats. Flat and unpretentious, land beside the goat pen under the Elder tree at the NE
Inishmacowney
R291-600 Sheets 57/64
Third largest of the big five locally, it is more than one square kilometre of cattle farm and woodland. The slip at the landing spot midway on the NW side is quite pretty, sheltered by a stone jetty and makeshift projection.
Illaunbeg or O'Donnell's Island
R280-602 Sheet 57
A well husbanded hayfield 100m of fast deep water off Crovraghan Pier. Its main purpose in life is to shelter the pier. A notable Curlew roost, land easiest at the N end.
Shore Island
R286-607 Sheet 57
Substantial unkempt uncared for island, distinguished by a stand of Ash trees on the summit. Also Elder. Land easiest at N end. No water.
Feenish
R340-617 Sheet 58
To the recreational user, this is the most attractive of all the Fergus Estuary islands. Two rolling hills of grass and ragwort give a nice open feeling. Two lonely hawthorns are the only trees. Herds of cattle are confined to their section by electric fences (that do sting !). Lingerers or campers will ensure they are in a quarter different to the grazing livestock. There is an attractive stone cottage on the SE side. Agricultural access is from the NE.
The best landing is on a lovely shingle beach on the SW side.
Deenish Island
R346-633 Sheet 58
One high hillock at the W side and reeds / marsh to the E, in 2009 this island was in transition from overgrown grassy to planned woodland. A major dyke to the E helps protect a large field from flooding, or rather, used to. The hillock is planted with alternating vertical rows of deciduous (oak) and coniferous (Contorted Pine) forestry, at 2m intervals, an interesting combination, presumably akin to intercropping in a vegetable garden. Some older Alder and other broadleaf varieties suggest this was all well planned.
The beach on the W side of the island is scoured by the main flow and mudfree to at least half height.
Inishmore or Deer Island
R296-630 Sheet 57
Largest of the islands locally at about two square kilometres, Deer Island is the preferred local name. The farmhouse is midway on the S side. Paddling round it is reminiscent of what paddling through Counties Cavan or Monaghan may be like if and when water levels rise sufficiently. The hedgerows may be lusher though. Its steep fields are stocked with cattle and sheep. The point of embarkation dedicated to this island is at Rosscliff to the W at R288-633.
Deer Island was until 2004 unique among Irish islands for having a sole resident who was female. Nowadays the island is farmed from the mainland as an out-farm, as with all the islands hereabouts now.
The passage between Coney and Inishmore dries out at just under half tide height.
Coney Island
R326-626 Sheets 57/58
Second largest at about one and a quarter square kilometres of the larger islands locally, and perhaps most attractive, Coney is by far the tallest at 59m. On the summit are a trigonometrical station and a more attractive monument. The latter is said to have been erected by the then landowner to his son who was killed in the Boer War at the turn of the 19th century, probably fighting for the British. The monument is slightly squways. Local lore has it that in 2004 when President Bushe of the U.S.A. visited Ireland, there was a massive security operation around Shannon Airport, about 4km away. Irish soldiers making security checks interfered with it, in case it was hollow or the like, but didn't do a good job putting it back together. Pity.
The main landing spot is a jetty and slip at the W side. The slip reaches out as far as all but the lowest LWS. There are several houses all now boarded up. Farmers commute here by day on the tide from Crovraghan Pier. Cattle, sheep and horses are stocked. There are two old churches, both at the SE, and one graveyard is still in limited use. A network of boreens criss-cross the island.
From the summit, the very best views of the estuary hereabouts are achieved, up to Ennis, down to Aughinish aluminium plant on the limerick side, and of course Shannon Airport to the E, planes taking off every few minutes. It seems out of place in so rural a setting.
The passage between Coney and Inishmore dries out at just under half tide height.
Inishdadroum
R308-618 Sheet 57
This tiny islet is really the end of a spit of land projecting SW from Coney and not really separate. Sheep and horses grazing there will have migrated from Coney and get cut off by the rising water. It is low but has two distinct high points at either end, hence the name.
Midway between the island and the islet, at the lower half of the tide, it is said there is a tidal lake, a rockpool really. Locals are amazed that it never silts up nor gets filled with stones, even though fierce storms wash over it. It contains the clearest water hereabouts.
Trummer
R303-621 Sheets 57
This is a genuine islet identifiable at all angles for its pronounced hump at the WSW end. This transpires as a jumble of limestone rocks. Essentially from mother nature's kitchen, these rocks have been re-organised by man to pen sheep. Ungrazed. Elder tree.
Islands off Kilrush
The two low-lying islands off Kilrush make for an interesting day out. The area is particularly good for people teaching maritime skills, the tides being strong and even turbulent, yet enclosed and with a ‘safe’ feeling. The best embarkation place is at Cappagh Pier at Q985-540.
Tides
The ebb race between Hog Island and Cappagh Pier extends over 500m, extending NE from the eastern point of Hog to just off the pier itself. This is a splendid play area, fast and steep, yet enclosed and therefore safe enough. It is easy to escape, having distinct eddy lines. A swim, even a long one, deposits the swimmer close to a friendly shore, outside the gates of Kilrush Creek. Certainly comparable in power to the race at New Quay in the N of the county, the extra ‘enclosed feeling’ is a safety factor that makes it preferable.
Scattery Island
Q976-526 Sheet 63
The island seems to have been named for a dragon (Cathach in Irish, giving Inis Cathach). It has a long and varied history and its origins are mostly associated with St. Senan born in 488 A.D. He founded the Christian settlement there in the 6th Century. It was a holy island until the Vikings took over for a century or so before being recaptured by Brian Boru in 975. The Vikings must have been pleasantly surprised when they first arrived, to find the access door to the round tower at ground level. This makes it the most easily accessible round tower in Ireland.
There is an abandoned village on the northern end of the E side. Many of the cottages are intact. The island was inhabited until 1978. No artificial fertiliser was ever used on these fields so the island is of ecological interest as a semi-wild grassland.
The lighthouse and battery are at the southern point. The battery is in good condition but access to the roof through the hole in the ceiling is now impossible. Metal grids prevent entry to the inside of the battery.
The lighthouse was first established in 1872.
There is what looks like a peat marina cut into the sod at the southern end of the E side. This is just N of the lighthouse. It could hardly have been a commercial success.
The island has plentiful rabbit and in 1999, Golden Plover and a Short-eared Owl.
Tides
The tidal streams between the mainland and the islands tend to be stronger than between the islands. In each case they flow SE with the flood and NW with the ebb.
Landing and Camping
Land on Scattery at a muddy-sandy beach at a pier towards the northern end of the E side. Also, less conveniently further over S towards the battery/lighthouse. Fresh water is unavailable, but there is a holy well behind the round tower. It looks good, and certainly might be drinkable if boiled. Camping is possible anywhere, but permission is needed from Dúchas.
Hog Island
Q986-533 Sheet 63
Little neighbour of Scattery Island and less interesting. A drumlinesque few acres, there are horses, Shelduck and goats. The island is privately owned and camping is not permitted.
The West Coast a tidal overview
Local HW is generally:
From To HW Galway
Mizen Head Loop Head -0100
Loop Head Slyne Head 0000
Slyne Head Erris Head +0015
Erris Head Tory Island +0040
Tory Island Malin Head +0100
Offshore tidal streams
Tidal information inshore along the W coast of Ireland is only occasionally reliable or available. There just aren’t enough boaters about sending in information. It is known that offshore, the mainstream flood makes N from HW Galway 0320 to +0305, and ebbs in reverse. This is consistent between Loop Head in the S and Aran Island in Donegal. It is also very little different half an hour earlier the rest of the way N and E around the corner to at least as far as Malin Head.
The offshore mainstream makes itself felt where the land projects to meet it.
For example:
• Along the coast from Loop Head to Kilkee
• Out the back of the Aran Islands
• At Slyne Head
• Out the back of Inishshark, Inishbofin and Inishturk
• At Achill Head
• Outside the Inishkeas
• At Erris Head
• Along the coast from Rathlin O'Birne to Aranmore
• In Tory Sound
• From Downies to Melmore Head.
Inshore tides
Inshore, where paddlers operate, it is a little more complicated. It is widely accepted that tidal streams inshore turn before tidal streams offshore. The islands and the much-fragmented coastline set up eddies. The bays and inshore channels, from the Shannon Estuary in the SW to Lough Swilly in the far NE, fill and empty almost simultaneously. The variation between them is twenty minutes or less.
This inshore cycle of bay filling and emptying is associated with the offshore main stream. As soon as the offshore stream begins to slacken off, the inshore tide starts to flow in the opposite direction. Here is how it works.
The offshore mainstream floods N until HW Galway +0305, but inshore, the bays start to empty that bit earlier, at HW Galway +0100. The inshore bays start to empty as soon as the offshore flood starts to slacken.
The offshore mainstream ebbs S until HW Galway -0320, but inshore, the bays start to fill that bit earlier, at HW Galway -0500. The inshore bays start to fill as soon as the offshore ebb starts to slacken.
To summarise, the bays mostly fill on the offshore flood, and they mostly empty on the offshore ebb. It is just that the inshore cycle starts an hour and a half earlier than offshore. As soon as the offshore flood or ebb slackens to about half pace, the process is exhausted, and the inshore cycle the other way is triggered.
Thus, all the bays and channels on the West Coast fill from about HW Galway 0500 and empty from about +0100.
Water movement in bays
It has to be stressed that these timings relate to the entrances to bays. Up near the head of a bay, or even halfway up, the timing tends to be that bit later. Further, in bays where a large expanse of water is filled through a narrow or constricted entrance, it can be very much later. Bays with restricted entrances, into which large rivers flow, operate to different rules again.
The information that is commercially available about W coast tides relates to entrances of bays. The people who draw charts and write Pilot books concentrate their efforts here. The reason is that mariners are always anxious to come and go with a favourable tide. Given that the W coast of Ireland consists almost entirely of such bays, this is very useful. The conscientious route planner is remarkably well informed for large sections of the coast.
Care should be exercised in using information from the table on the facing page.
• Rates of flow are spring rates, mostly if not exclusively.
• They are not necessarily consistent throughout the bay.
• The value given may not be for the mouth of the bay itself, but for some other spot inside the bay which has been deemed more important. The reasons for this may not be readily apparent.
• Similar arguments apply for start and finish times, though less vigorously so.
Common sense should be used, or better again, consult the Irish Coast Pilot for more detailed information.
All times are given relative to HW Galway
|
Bay and place |
Max. Rate |
Starts to fill |
Starts to empty |
|
Shannon Estuary (off Carrigaholt) Galway Bay South Sound Foul Sound Gregory Sound North Sound Kilkieran Bay Bertraghboy Bay Clifden Streamstown Cleggan Bay Ballynakill Harbour Killary Westport Bay Clew Bay (Weaker flow) Clew Bay (Stronger flow) Achill Sound South (off Achillbeg) Achill Sound South Inner Achill Sound North (Bull’s Mouth) Blacksod Bay Outer (Achill/Duvillauns) Blacksod Bay Inner (N+E of Blacksod Pt) Frenchport Broadhaven Broadhaven Bay Killala Bay Ballysadare Bay Sligo Bay Outer Sligo Harbour Ballyshannon (Bar to Town) Donegal Harbour Killybegs Harbour Gweebarra Hbr. Rosses Bay Inner Aran Sound N+S Rutland Channels N+S Cruit Bay Inner Sheephaven (+ Ards Bay entrance) Mulroy Bay (entrance) Lough Swilly (at Buncrana) |
Strong 1.00 1.50 1.50 0.50 1.50 1.75 1.50 Very strong Weak Weak 0.50 2.00 0.50 1.50 2.50 5.00 9.00 1.25
2.50 1.00 Weak 1.00 1.00 3.00 2.00
0.25 9.50
Strong 1.50 1.50 |
-0520 -0520 -0520 -0520 -0520 -0520 -0520 -0500 -0500 -0500 -0500 -0500 -0505 -0530 -0530 -0450 -0450 -0450 -0515 -0450 -0515 -0450 -0515 -0450 -0450 -0450 -0505 -0415 -0530 -0450 -0500 -0520 -0520 -0520 -0520 -0500 -0520 -0505 |
+0050 +0105 +0105 +0105 +0105 +0105 +0105 +0100 +0100 +0100 +0100 +0100 +0040 +0040 +0040 +0135 +0135 +0120 +0050 +0120 +0050 +0100 +0050 +0115 +0115 +0115 +0115 -0015 +0045 +0015 +0015 +0050 +0050 +0050 +0050 +0105 +0105 +0055 |
All of these carry a warning. No one in a small boat should ever pass a lobster pot without checking which direction the tide is flowing. It’s like going out in the rain without a coat because the weather forecast is good.
The Coast of West Clare
This varied coastline changes greatly in character. The SW Clare coastline is synonymous with vertical slate cliffs. These begin at Kilbaha in the Shannon Estuary, just E of Loop Head and run NE for 60km or so, uninterrupted except for the occasional small boulder beach or long sweep of sand. The cliffs go all the way to the limestone Burren hills in the N of the county. There are few enough landings among the limestone escarpments between Doolin and Ballyvaughan. Steep cliffs then give way to the deeply indented bays in low-lying farmland on the NE edge of the Burren.
Those who have set themselves to paddle all the way around Ireland, a mighty crew, properly fear the southern section of this county, from Loop Head to Doolin. It is one of the significantly exposed parts of the entire trip.
West Clare is here divided into small day excursions, which allow one to intensively explore.
Kilrush area to Carrigaholt
Q985-540 to Q849-511 Sheet 63
14km of stony shore with strong tides.
Embarkation is at Cappagh Pier at Q985-540 which is also the embarkation for Scattery Island. The rocky shoreline E of here goes all the way to Aylevarroo Point at Q997-529, the low-lying point on the horizon to the E. To the W lies the entrance to Kilrush Creek Marina. Access through the lockgates at Q984-544 is easy in season when the gates are normally manned. Call on VHF Channel 80 to be certain.
From the Creek, a stony shoreline extends to Querrin, past the mouth of Poulnasherry (OysterHole) Bay. Poulnasherry is a tidal inlet, so don’t explore on an ebbing tide. Querrin Spit encloses an interesting, marshy area, accessible only above LW, 3km W of the mouth of the Poulnasherry marsh. At Querrin, there is a handy embarkation point with good road access at the pier and slipway in front of the handball alley at Querrin Quay at Q925-541. Best avoid the lower tides for fear of slime.
Corlis Point is at Q915-530, followed by rocky reefs. Next is stony Doonaha Beach at Q883-527, where a caravan park and gun battery can be seen. Just E of Carrigaholt is Haughs Bay, secluded in that access is easier from the sea than from the land. Beware of LW at Carrigaholt, which leaves a mudflat inside the old quay (one of Nimmo’s). Better to land at the stony beach outside the pier.
Carrigaholt to Kilbaha
Q849-511 to Q738-480 Sheet 63
15km of varied coastline.
The bay S of Carrigaholt is Kilcredaun and has an isolated stone beach below the Irish College visible above. The well-preserved Carrigaholt Castle is prominent on the point SE of Carrigaholt.
There is a battery on top of Kilcredaun Point at Q850-494. Six such batteries were built towards the end of the Napoleonic Wars to guard the estuary against a French invasion. They were built in matching pairs. This one is matched by a similar construction on the Kerry side at the Cliffs of Dooneen at Q885-478. Upstream, the next two are at Scattery Island and Carrig Island. The last two are at Kilkerin Point and Tarbert Island, where the estuary is at its narrowest and most tortuous.
Batteries were a more formidable proposition than Martello Towers. Martello Towers are a common feature on the E coast, but there are only two on the W coast. Both of these are in N Clare. Batteries were Dshaped or semicircular, and had much bigger armaments. These normally included 2 howitzers on the roof of the blockhouse and 6 guns along the outer perimeter.
Typically, a battery also had a dry moat and a drawbridge. Scattery Island battery is in good condition although access to the roof is no longer possible. Kilkerin Point has been renovated in recent years.
A school of porpoise and Bottlenose Dolphin are resident between this point and the Kerry coast for a number of years. They make full use of the sweeping tides to feed and frolic.
Rinevella Bay has a pebble beach with a sunken bog and forest at its western extremity at Q817-493. Next, Rehy Hill at Q801-484 slopes gently into the water. Kilcloher Head at Q773-474 has a cave and marks the end of an impressive section of cliffs, including some long narrow caves and ‘The Opera House’ - undercut layers of rock sloping into the water. Land at the pier, Nimmo’s prettiest according to some.
Tides
Tidal streams are strong at Kilcredaun Head at Q851-493 where the estuary suddenly narrows and turns SW after its long westerly progression to the Atlantic. Locals say the ebbing spring tide reaches 4kn. The tide fills NE from HW Galway 0520 and empties SW from HW Galway +0050.
Kilbaha to Loop Head
Q738-480 to Q686-471 Sheet 63
6km of unremitting cliffs.
Kilbaha is a wild place, pretty, and remote. Best to approach by road from the N, the Bridges of Ross side. The coastal road along the estuary from Carrigaholt is often blocked at Rinevella Bay (Q823-497) by storm damage. Note how Kilbaha Pier is constructed without any mortar at all. There are two pubs and basic facilities. The Lighthouse pub does excellent bar food. A paddle to Ross Bay or the Bridges means a short road walk back, allowing a mighty paddle with no logistics or shuttle. Kilbaha has slipway access with shelter from off-lying reefs sloping into the bay. A little hut with caves underneath marks the SW extent of Kilbaha Bay.
The outermost 6km of the Shannon Estuary has the character of the coast outside it. Tides now play a significant role as wind from the S can cause unpleasant sea states. Along the striking cliffs towards the head are many narrow caves, including one cavern whose narrow entrance causes light to refract upwards through the water. Halfway between Loop Head and Kilbaha is Dunmore Head at Q718-466 where a sheltered break may be had inside. Dunmore Head is almost cut off, and is locally called Horse Island. There is a wonderful cave running N/S through the headland. There is a very steep storm beach just E of Loop Head where landing is possible in good conditions.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough.
Loop Head to Bridges of Ross
Q686-471 to Q735-504 Sheet 63
7km of cliffs lie between Loop Head and the Bridges of Ross.
Tides
Tides hereabouts, even in close, are the main W coast offshore mainstream. They run along the coast from Loop Head to Kilkee at up to 1kn in springs, with the flood running from HW Galway 0320 to +0305.
Loop Head
Loop Head is a big squarecut, jutting headland. It consists of vertical black cliffs over 30m high. There is a detached section right at the head itself. This is called Diarmuid and Gráinne’s Rock. It is a vertical tower 100m by 20m, separated from the mainland by a deep, narrow gorge. In very calm conditions, it is possible to paddle through this gap.
Diarmuid and Gráinne fled from Fionn and the Fianna, a long time ago. Their near capture is recorded widely all over Ireland in places named after them, such as this. From the mainland, marvel at the cairn on top of the rock and wonder how it got there. It wasn’t Diarmuid or Gráinne. Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad, two English climbers, put it there in 1990. They have specialised in climbs such as this. They abseiled down, swam out, climbed up, and then tyroleaned back (shinnied along a rope suspended between rock and mainland) to the mainland, leaving their mark behind. The feat has not been repeated.
Around the Head, there is always a swell, which booms on the off-lying reefs. There is a huge lighthouse which is rarely visible from below, except from way out.
The cliffs relent after Black Rock at Q703-490. The view southwards from here looks bleak as rising black cliffs stretch out to sea. The detached rock, 2km NE of the head, is Gull Island at Q701-482. The prominent point by it is Bullaunaleama, with its significant arch, with hundreds of birds occupying its ledges. 3km ENE of the Head lie two shallow bays with storm beaches where landing is possible, Fodry Bay and Ross Bay at Q733-500, handy to the road.
The Bridges of Ross is a N facing, natural harbour. Once there were two bridges, but one fell into the sea. The remaining one is on the western side of the mouth of the inlet, just E of the Point of Ross. There are two inlets within the harbour. Access is normally easier from the wider one, being the more E of the two. There is a track down to a boulder beach. The bay is not completely cut off in rough conditions, as the mouth is wide enough. Care should be exercised though.
Bridges of Ross to Goleen Bay
Q735-504 to Q825-560 Sheet 63
This is 11km of beautiful committed paddling with no real landings between the two points. Worse, the mouth of Goleen Bay is closed out in swell. Goleen Bay is otherwise an excellent waystop and possible embarkation point. It has though, an awkward, mucky carry in. If heading N, and if Goleen is closed, then Kilkee is next stop. This makes for a trip of over 18km in total.
Between Ross and Toorkeal at Q762-513 are continuous cliffs with one sea stack. The N-facing, V-shaped baylet at Toorkeal has, in the cliff to its W, a remarkable T-shaped cave. This leads in over boulders to a sheltered steep-sided cove.
Gowleen at Q785-535 (no road access) is rarely accessible due to rocks at the mouth of the bay. Croan Rock marks its northern edge.
Gowleen Bay is a further 5km to the NE. The hill with radio masts, SW of Goleen Bay, is Knocknagarhoon at Q814-551. There are impressive caves and inlets along this section.
Tides
Tides in this section are as mentioned previously - the main W coast offshore stream runs along the coast from Loop Head to Kilkee at up to 1kn in springs, with the flood running from HW Galway 0320 to +0305.
Goleen Bay to Kilkee
Q825-560 - Q886-604 Sheet 63
About 8km of vertical cliffs and steeps slabs.
Goleen Bay is an excellent waystop and possible embarkation point, well sheltered, but beware of rough seas closing out its narrow entrance during big sets.
The castle at Castle Point (Q835-577) cannot now be seen. The deeply undercut cliff here is popular with mackerel fishermen. From Goleen Bay to here are steeply sloped rock layers dipping straight into the sea. Offshore lies the distinctively shaped Illaunonearaun at Q827-570. There is no landing but it boasts fine arches and caves at its NE tip.
SPA
Storm Petrel, Barnacle Goose.
There is a lovely arch at Foohagh Point at Q853-590, but watch for the submerged rock on its northern side. There is a most beautiful stack to its S called Green Pillar Rock, also called ‘The Candle’ by divers. A large hole has eroded through the centre, and there is a splendid jump off the landward side of the hole.
The bay just N of Bishop’s Island at Q856-595 has the remains of some huts. There is a straight, 200m long cave in the SW corner. The island itself is visible only from the land opposite, and no landing is possible to kayaks. There are caves in the cliff wall opposite Bishop’s Island and a mighty sea stack on the corner. Clapotis often occurs in the sound, especially in the shallower, inside part.
Approaching Kilkee Bay, just outside Duggerna Rocks, are a couple of nice caves, with the innermost having two entrances. The second is almost hidden by the big rock sticking up in the corner, or at HW. Waves tend to rear up between here and Knockroe Point to the S. The bay just to its S is Intrinsic Bay, where Goat Island is the tiny sloping rocklet heavily populated with birds. Avoid the tiny inlet behind the island.
On Duggerna Rocks, at the southern side of the bay, are the famous Pollock Holes. These are famous for their natural swimming and snorkelling pools of all sizes. Covered at HW, they are refreshed twice daily. The Pollock Holes are deservedly a most popular attraction. The offshore rocks at this point are busy divesites.
The inner bay has a beautiful, horseshoe strand, which is very well sheltered. As the town is right behind, the best landing is at the pier at the northern end of the beach. Scuba divers, both CFT and PADI (Comhairle Fo-Thuinn (Irish Underwater Council), Professional Association of Diving Instructors), organise themselves from this pier. Kilkee is a serious player as a tourist town.
At the northern end of Kilkee Bay, a number of underwater reefs run S from George’s Head. These are known by frightened kayakers to boom on even the calmest days. The sheltered Byrne’s Cove at Q883-614 on the N side of the bay is popular with male naturists. The prevailing south-westerly swells, coupled with reflection off the cliffs, makes for turbulent water in this corner of the bay.
Kilkee to Doonbeg
Q886-604 to Q962-663 Sheet 63
This section is around 14km.
Kilkee to Farrihy Bay is about 5km and is a pleasant trip with rock layers, sloping steeply into the sea.
George’s Head protects Kilkee Bay. The head has a cave opening to the S. The bay just to the N is Chimney Bay. Offshore are two rocky outcrops. That nearer Kilkee is known as Biraghty More at Q883-633, which is a popular scuba divesite. It boasts a good jump into the sea on the landward side. Facing Biraghty More on Corbally Point is a small cave. Further N is Biraghty Beg.
Farrihy Bay has a reef at the mouth. On the southern side of the bay is Corbally village where landing is possible, but there is a long carry to the road. Corbally village is mostly holiday cottages now, but the native villagers were noted Irish speakers up to 1950 or so. Clerical and lay ‘Gaelgeoirí’ were common visitors in summer months. There is a rocky beach at the NE corner of the bay with good road access, but sharp reefs force a long carry at LW. This is not a rough weather landing spot by any means.
Donegal Point at Q896-654 is turbulent at most times. It separates Farrihy Bay from a small, sheltered inlet to its N, called Bealnalicka. There is a rock beach here with steep access above the inlet to an in-fill quarry, which has road access. There are splendid caves at the inner, southern side of the inlet. One cave is a gem. It goes all the way S, through the headland into Farrihy Bay. The roof of the cave has collapsed halfway along, and being open to the sky, there are curious lighting effects even in poor ambient light conditions. Expect rough conditions at the southern entrance to the cave, and in the middle. Two reefs run outwards from the N entrance to the caves.
Ballard Bay is noted for its sheer spectacular cliffs. Visit the caves inside a distinctive notch called the Horse Shoe at Q905-658. The caves are in the southern side of the bay, just W of the Napoleonic signal tower at Q910-656. A rocky shoreline leads around the headland to Carrickfadda known locally as the Blue Pool, a rock ledge at the outer NW end of the headland. Carrickfadda is popular with fishermen, despite some being tragically swept out to sea by boomers over the years.
On the W side of Doonbeg Bay, there is the remains of a castle at Killard Point. There is good road access to a sheltered slipway at Q953-673. Access is also possible at HW, right up into Doonbeg itself, at a slipway N of the bridge, at Doonbeg Castle. The Doonbeg area is also shown on Sheet 57. Doonbeg pier is by Nimmo.
Doonbeg to Spanish Point
Q962-663 to R034-777 Sheet 57
The character of the coast all the way from Loop Head to Spanish Point is mostly steep, rugged, slate cliffs interspersed with sheltered bays, large and small. S of Doonbeg, the terrain is mostly suited to those who like to potter and explore in detail. This now gives way to exposed surf beaches.
The coast 9km N of Doonbeg is mostly surf beach, including the famous Doughmore (White Strand on the OS 1:50,000 map). Doughmore is famous with surfers for its reliable surf and mean rip-tides. Do not lightly decide to land hereabouts.
Doughmore is famous with others for the golf played in the dune system behind the beach. Doonbeg Golf Course was developed controversially in the last few years. Golfers won out against conservationists. More recently, the golfers have applied to Clare County Council for permission to deposit 80,000 tons of rock and boulders at various points on Doughmore beach, to halt coastal erosion. Did they not realise that dunes are by definition impermanent? Was this not on the cards from the outset? This is one of the most beautiful remote and natural beaches in Ireland. While the land belongs to the golf course, the beach belongs to everyone. It is not the public’s fault if some of the greens were badly situated.
The pier (by Nimmo) at Lurga Point, 2km WSW of the village of Quilty, has a NE facing slipway at Q996-742, sheltered by a reef, and is a most convenient embarkation point for off-lying Mutton Island.
There is a somewhat sheltered storm beach just 1km S of Caherrush Point at R020-768. Here are farms and generally a welcoming environment, with water and camping on request.
The curved beach immediately S of Spanish Point is a famed surf spot, absolutely to be avoided except in calm conditions.
Mattle Island
Q972-721 Sheet 57
Mattle is 2km S of Mutton Island and will always play a secondary role to the larger and more attractive Mutton. Cormorant and Shag roost on the grass top. Cormorant colonise the summit while Shag have their home perched over a deep cut that penetrates the NE point.
Landing
Land in a cut at the southern point, or in various points along the SE side, depending on tide and conditions. A reef runs well out to the ENE, and landing may often be had in its shelter.
Mutton Island
Q983-747 Sheet 57
Mutton Island lies 1.5km off Lurga Point. There are three modest houses, nicely sheltered under a low hill, at the narrow, eastern end on the SE facing side. The middle one is still roofed. The houses are just NE of a lake which is just E of the narrow middle of the island. There is a significant signal tower midway along the exposed western side. The northern and western sides are high and craggy.
Landing and Embarkation
The landing place is onto a stony beach at a projecting spit at the narrow, north-eastern point. There are also landing points nearer the houses. If circumstances dictate, there is also a useful landing in a W-facing cut at Q982-747. Camping is equally convenient to all these landings. Embark from a sheltered and conveniently reached beach and slipway at Q996-743 at Seafield Harbour, tucked inside Lurga Point just 3km WSW of the village of Quilty.
With tide running, a most fearsome sea state is said to kick up S of Mutton Island. Beware also the reefs off the W of the island, beloved of wilder surfers.
SPA
Barnacle Goose, Great Northern Diver.
Gadwall, Shoveler, Wigeon, Teal and Mallard were seen on the lake in March 2004. Also seen were Barnacle Goose, Snow Bunting, Twite, Snipe and a herd of goats.
Carrickaneelwar
Q984-758 Sheet 57
A great slab of rock with minimal grass lies at 1km N of Mutton Island. Various slabs on the S side usually provide an easy landing. This rock has a fine feel to it. Seal, Barnacle Goose, Mallard and Teal were seen in March 2004.
Spanish Point to Liscannor
R034-777 to R068-884 Sheet 57
No organised information is to hand about this committing stretch of coast, consisting of low cliffs and surf beaches.
The bay to the S of Liscannor is Lehinch and a famed surf spot, absolutely to be avoided by sea kayaks.
Liscannor to Doolin
The Cliffs of Moher
R068-884 to R058-971 Sheet 51/Sheet 57
To the N of Liscannor are the famous Cliffs of Moher, running NNE for 16km or more from Hag’s Head at R011-897. Hag’s Head lies 3km W of Furreera (R042-880 Sheet 57) in Liscannor Bay, or about 6km W of Liscannor Harbour (one of Nimmo’s). Small parties will start or finish this classic excursion at Furreera. Larger parties may prefer Liscannor, as it has the better parking, easy access at the harbour, and in the village itself, facilities including restaurants, pubs, hotel and hostel. The Cliffs of Moher are the highest vertical cliffs in Ireland. Except for one stack off O’Brien’s Tower, and a few storm beaches, landings are few. Even then, these are only accessible in very settled conditions. These cliffs provide the most dramatic and committing day paddle in Ireland. If doing the Cliffs of Moher, choose light winds, or south-easterlies, which will wash over the top.
Supreme Surfing Wave
Aill na Searrach is Ireland’s biggest and best surfing wave, at over 10m, thought to be among the top five waves in the world. The wave is close inshore, just N of Branaunmore. It was known for years but never surfed until recently. Efforts began October 2004 but standard techniques were found wanting. Surfers came from Australia, USA and the UK to try their luck. Eventually on 15th October 2005, surfers were brought out to the site from Doolin. Getting onto the wave involves being towed a by jet-ski, which then makes a hasty retreat, tactics not necessary anywhere else in Ireland. Conditions only get suitable a few times every year. The wave spills into the base of the cliffs themselves, so its danger is not just its size. Keep away, unless you are one of a very small handful of experts.
Doolin claims, with some validity, to be the secret capital of Irish music. It is Mecca to every hitchhiker and cycling tourist under the age of sixty to visit Ireland. Doolin boasts excellent music, hostels, camping (in a paying site conveniently at the harbour), seafood restaurants, chippers, as well as everything touristy. Doolin Pier at R057-970, Sheet 51 is the obvious embarkation place for the Aran Islands. Inisheer lies 8km to the WNW, or 10km to the main beach.
The slipway at Doolin pier is steep, less than well sheltered, and busy. Parking in summer is easier just 100m N, in front of the campsite. The launching is no more difficult off the rocky beach, despite a small, awkward carry. There is no other embarkation for many a cliff-bound mainland mile on either side.
Day excursions either side of Doolin are committing and amongst the best in the country.
Doolin has a coast and cliff rescue service. Contact Mattie Shanahan at 065 – 7074415, the leader of the local Coastguard (Doolin) Unit. Local information may be had from any of the local ferrymen, there being a number of busy, small ferry routes to the islands.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough.
Branaunmore - An Branán Mór
R037-924 Sheet 51
Branaunmore is the sea stack prominently visible below O’Brien’s Tower at the main public viewing point on the Cliffs of Moher. For this reason, it is more often referred to among kayakers as O’Brien’s Stack. Its importance lies in its strategic position, mid-trip along the Cliffs. Very occasionally, a trip along the Cliffs may here be broken, lunch taken, and legs stretched. Tall and thin at 61m high, this is a mighty stack, and although unreliable, do not discount the possibility of a landing. A shelf of rock extends out from the base of the stack on the seaward side, the Doolin side of which is peculiarly sheltered. Even when the gap with the mainland is closed out by booming surf, the N outer side is often quite free of surge and scend. Manageable groups will find it worth a look.
Crab Island
R053-971 Sheet 51
Crab Island is a small, rocky islet just off the pier at Doolin. It is best known these days for the reliable right-hand reef break off its SW side. Surfers ignore the nearby break on the mainland off Ballaghaline Point at R057-969, because it dumps. There is a stone building of indeterminate purpose on top of Crab, which looks like it might have been a wine cellar. Land onto a sheltered inlet on the NE side, which can be difficult, particularly in swell or at HW.
History
The German submarine Aud landed Dowing, servant of Roger casement, on Crab, in 1916. He couldn’t make the mainland and was arrested. This was the first in a long line of mishaps and misunderstandings that undermined the 1916 Rebellion and essentially confined it to Dublin. Casement has remained a controversial figure ever since. Branded as homosexual to alienate American Irish public opinion at the time, to the puzzlement of students of the subject since, it appears he was. The British were truthfully more upset by his exposition of third world abuses in the Congo and South America and elsewhere, but were happy to seize upon his treason in support of the Irish cause of the time.
County Galway
It is more convenient to deal with the Aran Islands here rather than in the main Galway section, hence the diversion.
Aran Islands
Sheet 51
As Doolin is the first logical embarkation for the Aran Islands, they will be looked at now and the trip up the west coast of Clare will be continued later.
Embarkation - Clare side
Doolin in County Clare is the obvious embarkation place on the Clare side. Keep N of Crab Island at the harbour mouth. Inisheer is 8km WNW. There is no other embarkation point hereabouts, with cliffs for many kilometres either side.
Embarkation - Galway side
There is no one obvious embarkation point on the Galway side for Inishmore. Set out from anywhere convenient on the Connemara coast, probably around Lettermullan. Departure from the island N to the mainland requires care in identifying the landing spot, as the mainland coast is low-lying and rocky. The islands off the Connemara coast tend to merge with the mainland background. The best navigational markers are the signal tower on Golam Head and the small, automated lighthouse on Croaghnakeela.
Tides
Local HW/LW is the same as Galway. The flooding tide fills Galway Bay through the four sounds around the Aran Islands. The flood begins at HW Galway -0520 and the ebb at HW Galway +0105, or, say, one hour after local HW/LW. The direction of the flood is NE through the sounds either side of Inishmaan, NNE on the Clare side, and E on the Galway side. Ebb tide timings and directions are the reverse in all cases.
The flood under the cliffs on the long and forbidding SSW (seaward) side of Inishmore, known to kayakers as the Dun Aengus cliffs, is NW from HW Galway -0320 to +0305.
Tidal streams NW and SE of the group, off the Galway and Clare coasts, are weak. South Sound between Inisheer and the County Clare mainland achieves only 1kn in springs, and North Sound between Inishmore and the mainland even less, 0.5kn. Streams in the middle two sounds E and W of Inishmaan are much stronger. Be careful of both central sounds with wind against tide, which occurs mostly on the ebb as prevailing winds are from the SW. The stream between Inishmaan and Inishmore, called Gregory’s Sound, reaches 1.5kn in springs. Also, being surrounded by cliffs, quite a sea state rises in Gregory’s Sound. In westerly winds, a sea state occurs when the swell claps against the cliffs on the SW of Inishmaan. The stream between Inishmaan and Inisheer, called Foul Sound, also reaches 1.5kn in springs, but lacks the reputation of Gregory’s Sound, there being no cliffs.
Inisheer - Inis Oírr
L982-028 Sheet 51
Population 270. On Inisheer there are provisions, pubs, music, hostel, airport, ferry, B&Bs, castles, ring forts, pretty scenery, nice walks, and has antiquities by the score. Saint Caban’s Church is now practically engulfed in sand. On 14 June each year the sand is cleared away and the islanders pray through the night by candle-light. Altogether a most attractive island. Irish (and English) speaking.
Landings
The main landing place is at a NNE facing beach, midway on the NNE side, which may dump. Otherwise, try at the pier at the W end of the beach, where the ferry comes in. There is a paying campsite, with facilities, near the village.
L992-016 Trá Caorach, just W of the eastern point of the island, is a sandy beach. Nearby is the landmark wreck, the Plassey, rusting away above the HW mark since 1960.
L978-007 There is a quay, just NW of the lighthouse, by a slipway.
Inishmaan - Inis Meáin
L946-046 Sheet 51
Population 190. The island has an airport, ferry, provisions, B&B, pub, chipper and general facilities. An attractive island, almost exclusively Irish speaking. Note Dun Connor (Dún Chonchúir), which is one of the finest, complete ring forts in existence, oval in shape. The church was built in 1939 has an altar made by stonemason James Pearse, father of Patrick Pearse, 1916 Rising leader. Rock climbing on Inishmaan has developed since about 2001.
Landings and Camping
L946-046 The main landing spot is at Cora (An Córa), at the pier, or the beach nearby just NE for camping.
L954-060 At the NE corner, along the beautiful beach called Sandhead (Ceann Gainimh), but which dumps. Be careful not to disturb nesting Terns in spring and early summer. No water.
L943-067 Pier at E end of bay on N called An Caladh Mór, but there is a long carry at LW. No water.
L934-067 Better for the NW end of the island, there is a small pier and slipway, called Port na Cora. The carry is manageable at LW, there is convenient camping, and there is good water in a well nearby, up the boreen. This is also the best jumping off point for Inishmore.
Inishmore - Inis Mór
L883-088 Sheet 51
Population 850. Inishmore is the largest and most westerly of the three main islands. It has several small off-liers, dealt with here as a group. With its airport and all-weather ferry from Galway City, Inishmore, especially around the town Kilronan, has a very ‘mainland’ feel to it.
Landings
L883-088 Kilronan pier (Cill Rónáin), for all mainland type facilities.
L887-073 Killeany (Cill Éinne) pier, by Nimmo, near the airport. Remote.
L828-105 Kilmurvey (Cill Mhuirbhigh), W of centre on the northern side, has a sheltered sandy beach. The best campsite is on a grassy area on the western side of the bay, just N of the beach. This is just the other side of a pier, where there is an easy rocky landing, and good water in a well. This is the obvious departure point on passage NW.
L777-116 Bungowla (Bun Gabhla), a sheltered pier and slip, facing across the sound to the Brannock Islands at the W end of the island. Sheltered slipway, manageable camping, water. This is the jumping off point for the navigation of the Dun Aengus cliffs, the unbroken 16km line of cliffs of the SSW side of Inishmore. This passage is a major challenge for kayakers. Note that there are no reports available of the beach at the other end of these cliffs at Portdeha at L904-067 in Gregory’s Sound.
L831-092 In exceptionally calm conditions, in someone else’s empty plastic boat, or in extreme distress, there is the possibility of a landing at about midpoint on the SSW coast. This is under Gortnagapple (Gort na gCapall), 1km E of Dun Aengus. A sloping natural slipway lies at Port Bhéal an Dúin on the right hand side of the easterly of two bays, where the cliffs are lowest of all. Rumour has it that this place is very occasionally used by curraghs. This is the slipway made famous in the classic film ‘Man of Aran’. Otherwise, these cliffs are 14km of lee shore, best attacked from Bun Gabhla on the ebb